Fireworks

flip

flip

良かったね！
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Good evening. It's coming on fireworks season here in Japan. My GF asked me to a weekend in Wakayama where there's a large show. In the past, I've setup my Canon 20D on the tripod, attached the cable and relaxed. However, I rarely use the Canon now as my RF equipment is generally superior and more enjoyable to use.

Cut to the chase. What would you take on such a 2-day trip to include beach and fireworks:

Epson R-D1
Hexar RF
Olympus Pen FV (+25/4, 38/1.8)
The Canon (+28-75)


If I go with a RF, is there any advantage to a fast, modern lens over a vintage, smaller lens? Specifically, I perceive the differences between, say, a Canon 35/2.0 and CV 35/1.2 in day shots. At night, I see the speed advantage of the 1.2. However, these shots are f/8-11 and slow. Would the rendering of fireworks differ much?
 
flip said:
Good evening. It's coming on fireworks season here in Japan. My GF asked me to a weekend in Wakayama where there's a large show. In the past, I've setup my Canon 20D on the tripod, attached the cable and relaxed. However, I rarely use the Canon now as my RF equipment is generally superior and more enjoyable to use.

Cut to the chase. What would you take on such a 2-day trip to include beach and fireworks:

Epson R-D1
Hexar RF
Olympus Pen FV (+25/4, 38/1.8)
The Canon (+28-75)


If I go with a RF, is there any advantage to a fast, modern lens over a vintage, smaller lens? Specifically, I perceive the differences between, say, a Canon 35/2.0 and CV 35/1.2 in day shots. At night, I see the speed advantage of the 1.2. However, these shots are f/8-11 and slow. Would the rendering of fireworks differ much?
Click to expand...

Fast lenses are not necessary, as you won't be using them wide-open. Rangefinders are fine. Suggest film over digital because film tends to have less 'noise' for a longer exposure, but I'm sure both would work fine.

http://www.nyip.com/ezine/holidays/firewks.html

Use a tripod and a cable release. f/11 and a one-second exposure with the lens set at infinity and you should be fine.
 
My 4th of July shots: http://bit.ly/4jGgf

Here's how I got them:

ISO 100-200

f/5.6 to f/11 (judge by eye from the LCD after a couple of fireworks)

shutter on "bulb" (you control when it opens and closes)

use a beefy tripod

open shutter when you see orange flashes of fireworks being launched
from the barge

close shutter when you feel lucky

Now, for good measure I was using three cameras simultaneously... the problem is when you see another shot beginning while you have the shutter open already, what are you gonna do? the solution is to have another camera ready... I would never shoot fireworks on film, because there's no time to change film while the show is going on. (Maybe if you have a medium-format camera and a whole pile of film backs ready to swap out...) A high-capacity CF card that will give you 300+ shots is really useful here. AND SHOOT RAW! But that goes without saying.
 
I had a Nikon in the trunk along with a tripod, and was out shooting something else that day with a Contax.

I set it up, used B at f 11, Iso 200 color negative, framed the shot, and covered the lens between bursts I wanted to capture. A zoom helps in framing what you want quickly as I did not know where the bursts would be and how wide the field.

30 seconds worked for the background, and of course the fireworks self expose. I kind of tried to remember if part of the frame was blank and waited for something to happen there. You get a bit of warning sometimes before the big star burst.

They printed well the next day.

I used the M8 during a party overlooking the harbor in Vallarta on New Years, and braced myself to hand hold best I could, got one or two good shots, Iso 160 f 11, and a few seconds exposure. I have to figure how to get and stash a tripod in Mexico with friends down there.

Main thing for me is to have something interesting in the shot besides the fireworks. Across from the Champs de Mars in Paris gives you the Eiffel tower.

In Vallarta, all the hotels have fireworks, so you get the entire bay.

Regards, John
 
Thank you for the interesting advice. It sounds like the choice of camera and lens is largely irrelevant but that I may benefit from using film for longer shots combining different periods of bursting. Appreciated!
 
Just save some film for the end of the show when they usually set off a whole bunch of them very rapidly. You'll get better pictures if you have a clear sky, no clouds, and if you're far from a brightly lit city. That causes the sky to be lighter just from light reflected back from air pollution.

Some places have fireworks on New Year's Eve so you'll get a second chance.
 
Ah ...fireworks in Japan :) Velvia50, tripod, cable release, f/5.6 to f/11, 40 to 60 seconds.

2715831268_0850216c4b_b.jpg
 
I've shot them on film many times, the exposure times suggested above sound right. Low ISO, f8-11 tripod, long exposure etc. However, one advantage of digital is you can check exposure right away. Less exposure / lower ISO will give you more saturated colors in the fireworks whereas more exposure / Higher ISO will give you more detail in the surroundings. No way to really meter for this, trial and error is the only way. And with the Canon, you can check right away. That's why I would use the digital. Or if you really want to use film, use the digital as a sort of instant polaroid proof.
 
Well, I got back my shots on film and could compare with the digital. I'm surprised with my film success. I've been reluctant to leave the safety of digital for this particular type of shooting, but the results were consistently good given the limitations I put on myself.... I didn't know the field of view I would be addresing, so, I brought a canon 35/2 and the cv 15 - lenses I wasn't afraid to bring to the beach. the 15 introduced some foreround distortion, but I knew I got everything. :-D And using similar approaches as previously, the results were nice. I also - for the first time - tried putting a cloth over the lens between shells in order to incread the number in the frame. Worked quite well and without the noise I'd expect on digital.

Thanks, all!
 
Indeed. Great shot. Good bump. The GF is gone. Fireworks are back. :^)
This year, Nex + Hex 21-35 + remote. Just too easy.
 
Oh ... a one year old thread ! Thanks guys for the comments !! :) For me also history since that photo was taken in Sapporo in 2008 using my Hasselblad and while I moved to the Tokyo region last year the Hasselblad has been sold recently ...

This year it looks like many fire works will be canceled for obvious reasons ... (the victims of the Tohoku desaster and also the power brown outs)
 
maddoc said:
Oh ... a one year old thread ! Thanks guys for the comments !! :) For me also history since that photo was taken in Sapporo in 2008 using my Hasselblad and while I moved to the Tokyo region last year the Hasselblad has been sold recently ...

This year it looks like many fire works will be canceled for obvious reasons ... (the victims of the Tohoku desaster and also the power brown outs)
Click to expand...


Gabor,

So, I am going to finish up a roll of Sensia 100 (10 frames left)with the fireworks show this weekend. Tripod, zoom for coverage, set the exposure on f8 and B and try for 20 seconds or so? That is all there is to it?:) And then go to Velvia 50 at 40-60 seconds?
 
Dave,

it is that easy :) Just avoid having too bright light sources in the background or sky as they will show up to much .

Enjoy your 4th of July !

Cheers,

Gabor
 
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