f16sunshine
Moderator
I have a Sonnar 50 in for repair with a haze issue in the rear group. The tech is concerned that the coating will come off while trying to remove the haze. I tend to agree with him. It looked really stuborn and that is why I sent it in. So my question to you is. Should I leave the haze or remove the coating on that face? What cam I expect in either regard?
As always many thanks in advance for your advice.
Btw Tokyo kogaku hc 2/50 is our lens here.
As always many thanks in advance for your advice.
Btw Tokyo kogaku hc 2/50 is our lens here.
ferider
Veteran
Clean the haze, use a hood.
If the coating goes (might not, they are pretty hard) it will be only on one surface, shouldn't impact the performance too much.
Roland.
If the coating goes (might not, they are pretty hard) it will be only on one surface, shouldn't impact the performance too much.
Roland.
payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
Roland is right. Haze is the presence of something undesirable, not the absence of something desirable.
ZeissFan
Veteran
The coatings on Zeiss lenses generally was much sturdier than on Leica lenses.
It should clean up easily.
Haze will reduce light transmission far more than removal of lens coating.
It should clean up easily.
Haze will reduce light transmission far more than removal of lens coating.
kermaier
Well-known
+1.
I had the same situation with fungus in a Canon 50/1.2 lens. I had John Van Stelten at FocalPoint polish the coating off of 1 of the 10 glass surfaces in the lens, and I haven't noticed any difference.
::Ari
f16sunshine
Moderator
Thanks guys. You re-enforce what I think is best as well.
Cheers
Cheers
Clean the haze. My 1948 Collapsible Nikkor was "very cheap" as it had a thick layer of haze each side of the aperture blades. 15 minutes, 100% off, no coating damage. My 1950 5cm F1.5 Simlar was worse. Cleaned up, no coating damage.
The wartime German Sonnars have a softer coating on the inner surfaces. I had to take heavy haze off the surface behind the aperture, and about 1/3rd of the coating came off with it.
5cm F1.5 CZJ SOnnar "T", converted to LTM, Wide-Open.
The wartime German Sonnars have a softer coating on the inner surfaces. I had to take heavy haze off the surface behind the aperture, and about 1/3rd of the coating came off with it.
5cm F1.5 CZJ SOnnar "T", converted to LTM, Wide-Open.
Bill58
Native Texan
I hate to ask the question, but did he try simple lab grade Acetone on a Q-tip? If that didn't/ doesn't work, polish it off.