Ilford developer with FP4 Plus, Tri-X and Neopan 1600

For scanning, I'd back Ilford XP2 Super every time, preferably home- or professionally-processed in the interests of a decent wash (instead of just stablization). Dye image = no grain aliasing.

IMHO the grain aliasing problem depends to a large extent on the scanner. For example, it is less of a problem on the Epson V750 than on the Nikon Coolscan IV; the former has a soft, cold cathode light source while the latter has a collimated LED light source.
 
In my experience FP4 developed in D76 stock (same as ID11) gives wonderful tones, adecuate contrast and sharp grain. I really like the results of this combination. I develop and expose the film at box speed according to Ilford´s recommended times. Here is an example:

U4395I1255578518.SEQ.0.jpg
 
IMHO the grain aliasing problem depends to a large extent on the scanner. For example, it is less of a problem on the Epson V750 than on the Nikon Coolscan IV; the former has a soft, cold cathode light source while the latter has a collimated LED light source.

Very true indeed.

Cheers,

R.
 
As it was in the 1970s, FP4 was sharp but not unduly contrasty. I developed it in Microphen, though even with HP4 that did not give the excessive grain of which Jaans speaks.
 
Roger,

Thank you very much. I was just being cognizant of the thread title, which asked for Ilford developers.

It's funny, though ... I think I'll have to get some FG-7 for when I shoot FP-4, and maybe try it on TMX as well.
 
Hi all,

So here are a couple examples of the first role of FP4 Plus 125 @ 125 in DD-X. I developed 1+4 for 12 minutes. The box said for 10 minutes. But, the reason why I'm developing myself is to get a bigger "tonumfang" (err... range of tonality?) than what I get, if I send the film in. I don't really "flat negatives" nice to scan.

All information regarding the shots and the development can be found in the EXIF data of the pictures. But for the development data, you need to look under File Info/Advanced/FilmInfo in Photoshop or use EXIF Tool. Unfortunately, a couple of the images were slightly overexposed. Thanks for the all the help.... My next post will be about Neopan 1600 @ 800....

Cheers,

JP
 

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