Average 33 frames a roll only

Vincent.G

Vincent.G

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Hi

I have just been averaging about 33 frames per roll for my first 5 rolls. After development, I realized that frame 1 to 3 are not exposed for every roll.

Here's my dilemma. I know I am winding too much after loading. The reason is because I see the rewind knob turning to confirm the film is advancing properly before I shoot my first frame. And to achieve this, I work the film transport lever and release the shutter a couple of time before I see the knob turn.

Am I doing something wrong or silly here? Please help.
 
What Landshark said exactly. From OP, I assume you have an M with quick loading. My method, which has been working perfectly, is

• Follow exactly what the illustration says, make sure film is aligned with sprocket gear.

• close back door while you are holding the film in position from the opening (bottom).

• advance film once (no rewinding at this point).

• Then take out the slack, and wind to count 1.

This way, you you can even start from "0" area on the film (not on counter) and use most of film length.
 
Landshark said:
Take up the slack in the film by rewinding until you feel resistance, then begin advancing the film.
Click to expand...

Exactly. My preference is to place my thumb on the film where it passes over the sprocket wheel, or some other convenient place, and then turn the rewind to take up the slack while the back is still open. This is to prevent accidentally running the film back into the cassette if I've misloaded. I then close the camera and wind to #1 while watching the rewind knob to make sure it turns. End result is more often than not 37 shots per 36exp roll.

Whatever you choose to do, using a reliable loading method is vastly more important than worrying about the loss of a few shots per roll.
 
Many people load film too carefully. I've seen folks with cameras open load correctly, and then wind on and shoot two or three frames! Are they worried it might be fine for the first three frames and then come off? Sheesh.

I load the film into the camera, make sure it's properly aligned, and just close it right up. I then take up the slack with the rewind knob until I feel the tension, and then advance the first frame or two, watching to make sure the rewind turns, indicating that it's correctly loaded. Maybe once in 50 rolls do I have to open the camera up and re-align the film. I find Leica loading to be pretty fool-proof. This method routinely gives me 38 frames from a factory loaded 36 exposure roll of film.
 
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I thought you were talking about keepers!

BTW, I concur with Drew. Loading is relatively simple. But I only learned it after getting my life all complicated with it. Once I did it as the instructions say, I never looked back.

And yes, once in a blue moon you misload, but it's so seldom...

Good luck and have fun, Vince!
 
I also load and check that the film is on the sprockets - advance enough so that the top of the film also engages the sprocket, close and click off 1 frame after having checked tension with the rewind.
I generally use the first or second frame as a "tag" frame. I have a small whiteboard that I use for this. Write down the #/model of the camera, the lens used and filmspeed if it is different from normal. This process uses up 2 frames (the 1st advance and the tag frame) and that leaves me with 36-38 frames on the roll for reloadables and 34-35 for standard film cassettes. Simple way to keep track of cameras/lenses and films.
 
Load your roll.
Advance one frame while it's still open to make sure everything is dandy.
Tighten the slack while still open as well.
Close everything and lock it up.
Advance to 0 (sometimes I can get a frame at -1)
Shoot away!

I can get 37, sometimes 38 frames per roll.
 
With my M6 I'm getting around 38 (even 39 once I think!) - just make sure the end of the film's in the tulip type thing (not sure of the proper name) and that the rewind tab is turning and you're good to go! It took a couple of rolls to get it right though.
 
I have had one misload, ever, with the M6 quick loading. I missed a good shot because of it. I used to check sprocket engagement with the camera open but now I don't bother. I do it exactly as per the manual and except for that one time it always works. It is important (I think) to be quite positive and not tentative with the first two advances. So in extremely cold weather, where I almost never am, I would engage sprockets at top and bottom and then advance slowly with the camera closed. I don't bother with taking up the slack with the rewind knob and usually get 37 from a roll. The M6 frame counter starts at -2 with the instructions saying to trip shutter and wind until the counter shows +1. You can usually do one to two frames better, depending on how crucial that first frame is. My daughter's Nikon F3HP won't meter until +1, but you can shoot manually if you are happy with sunny 16. She won't learn that yet. In many ways the M2 Leica is even more reliable. Once the sprocket engages at the bottom of the film gate, and with the friction in the take up spool spring, it won't come loose.
 
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I am using a M2. I fumbled quite a bit with my first reloading as I was not used to it. I am shooting off more frames then necessary after reload because I thought the fogged section of the film has not been advanced yet. The stationary rewind knob added to my worry as well.

Is it enough to just insert the film leader into the spring catch of the take-up spool and straight away load into camera? If I do it this way, only the bottom sprockets are engaged. Is it safe? Or should I pull out more film and wrap one full round on the take up spool so that after loading into the camera, I can get the top and bottom sprockets to engage? Which way is correct?

I guess I am too insecure with my reloading skills.

Just to add: my film counter is manual, I got to reset it myself everytime I reload.
 
I use M3's, which load the same as your M2. Yes, it's enough to just insert the leader into the slot, and load it all into the camera. Just make sure the film is all the way into the slot, and that it's straight- not crooked coming off the spool. When the film and the take-up spool are in, be sure the film is straight across the gate and sitting properly on the sprocket, and close it up. Don't worry- it's easier than you think, and easier to do correctly than it is to write about it.
 
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drewbarb said:
I use M3's, which load the same as your M2. Yes, it's enough to just insert the leader into the slot, and load it all into the camera. Just make sure the film is all the way into the slot, and that it's straight- not crooked coming off the spool. When the film and the take-up spool are in, be sure the film is straight across the gate and sitting properly on the sprocket, and close it up. Don't worry- it's easier than you think, and easier to do correcly than it is to write about it.
Click to expand...

So after doing what you mentioned, is squeezing off 2 frames enough to bring out the fresh negative?
 
HI,

I achieved all the time 38 frames per roll on a M6 (I shoot 00 and 0 frame) but I hardly try to find how to shoot 39 frames (I think it's possible to shoot the frame 000 or 37)

Yvan.
 
Echo that. 2 frames is plenty. Look at your set up with the spool and cassette loaded and the film in the gate. Then lay over the top one of your developed negative strips. Two frames and you have film in the gate from within the cassette, not exposed to any light. The only way to go further is to load the film onto the spool in the dark-room and load the camera there too. Then everything you bring out of the cassette is unexposed. Don't know anyone who would go for an extra frame doing that.

PS. Worth having a look at the manual:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/leica/leica_m2/leica_m2.htm

(Leica says advance three in all, like for the M6 etc.)
 
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Tom A said:
I also load and check that the film is on the sprockets - advance enough so that the top of the film also engages the sprocket, close and click off 1 frame after having checked tension with the rewind.
I generally use the first or second frame as a "tag" frame. I have a small whiteboard that I use for this. Write down the #/model of the camera, the lens used and filmspeed if it is different from normal. This process uses up 2 frames (the 1st advance and the tag frame) and that leaves me with 36-38 frames on the roll for reloadables and 34-35 for standard film cassettes. Simple way to keep track of cameras/lenses and films.
Click to expand...

Tom. Did you say you actually write on the film tag leader?
 
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