Aperture Priority Mode

[zckls04]

Hi,

I've been trying for a while to decide on a new camera. I currently shoot a Nikon DSLR and a Large Format film camera, so I'm looking for a film rangefinder to fill the gap between the two.

I've been looking at the M7, Zeiss Ikon, Contax G2 etc etc, and I'm wondering how much any of you who own those cameras use the aperture priority modes, and what percentage of decent shots you get out of them. One of the most important considerations for this purchase is speed of use, and I don't particularly relish frantic zone calculations in my head.

Naturally I don't expect perfection in every shot- just trying to get an idea of what you guys end up using on a day to day basis.

Thanks,

Oli

 

[pachuco]

What type of film do you want to use? For B&W I do not use a meter, for chrome I do. So in one case I would never use AP but for others I depend on it.

 

[user237428934]

95% aperture priority. Manual only when I know that the meter will have problems with the lighting conditions.

Edit: when using aperture priority I often use AE Lock.

 

[rayfoxlee]

Hi

I have just been through this very process. I have a M2 with a CVII meter, but found this far too slow for grab shots as far as metering was concerned. Initially, I discounted an M7 on cost grounds, and then considered the Zeiss Ikon - but discounted that as a new buy as it is about the same cost as a mint late model M7. I nearly went for an M6, but this solved very little, so went back to the M7. Now that I have an M7, it is just so easy to use in AE, although I have not yet shot a full roll, so I can't comment on the results.

If you can get on with the idiosyncratic Leica way of doing things, you will not be disappointed!

Good hunting.

Ray

 

[Beemermark]

Long time Leica user, down to one M4 and two M7's. I use AE about 95% of the time. The M7 allows you to lock an exposure in by aiming on what you want to meter and a slight depression on the shutter release (this was the only negative of my CLE,which didn't allow this). The only time I go to 95% manual is with my 15mm lens and, depending on circumstance, my 28mm.

 

[johannielscom]

Classic M6 0.85 here.

Meter for the subject, recompose and shoot. Takes a second longer, while the M6 has full mechanical speeds. The M7 is completley dead without a battery, as is the Hexar RF.

Nothing beats my M6 😀

 

[zckls04]

Great- that tells me pretty much all I need to know.

I'll probably shoot B&W so I have a bit more room for error than I would with slide film. It looks like of the rangefinders I've seen, the M7 is most suited to the style of photography I'm doing. Providing the Aperture Priority nails at least a reasonable percentage of shots I'll be happy.

 

[Tom Diaz]

Hi,

I've been trying for a while to decide on a new camera. I currently shoot a Nikon DSLR and a Large Format film camera, so I'm looking for a film rangefinder to fill the gap between the two.

I've been looking at the M7, Zeiss Ikon, Contax G2 etc etc, and I'm wondering how much any of you who own those cameras use the aperture priority modes, and what percentage of decent shots you get out of them. One of the most important considerations for this purchase is speed of use, and I don't particularly relish frantic zone calculations in my head.

Naturally I don't expect perfection in every shot- just trying to get an idea of what you guys end up using on a day to day basis.

Thanks,

Oli

Of the cameras you listed there, the Zeiss Ikon is the one I have owned and used. I shoot aperture priority at least 90% of the time, and when i'm using it I almost always have some kind of exposure compensation dialed in, too. I thought the ZI had an especially nice, easy dial for that.

You did not mention the Voigtlander RFs, but they are also worth considering if you are looking for a film camera that does AE.

 

[ethics_gradient]

AE is great, it lets you concentrate more on composition than exposure details. Obviously, creative exposure can play a part in making an image, but more often than not I prefer to let the camera do the thinking as far as shutter speed.

I'm still baffled as to the "it doesn't need batteries" advantage touted by owners of the non-AE bodies. SR-44's are tiny and inexpensive, it's not hard to keep spares in your bag, pocket, or an empty film cannister. Batteries last for months, and it seems unrealistic that there would be many situations where you couldn't swap them out. As far as the camera dying just before a critical shot, I don't know how other cameras handle it, but my Bessa gives a warning well in advance when batteries are running low.

 

[Beemermark]

The M7 is completley dead without a battery, as is the Hexar RF.

No the M7 isn't completely dead without a battery. Also, unless your living in the rain forest or North Poles, batteries aren't much of issue. I also used a Hexar for years and the battery seemed to last for years, so again not much of a problem.

I remember the battery arguments when the Niko F3 came out 30 years ago. Sort of thought they were settled.

 

[Fenwick]

How much can a person expect to pay for a used M7 in top shape?

 

[35mmdelux]

How much can a person expect to pay for a used M7 in top shape?

variable, but with a little patience about $1850 (USD) for standard .72 mag.

 

[MCTuomey]

i think the utility of AE depends quite a bit on your style of shooting. if you shoot in rapidly changing light, or need to make quick framing decisions, or are likely to forget to make needed exposure adjustment while concentrating on other variables, the AE is going to help you make more keepers. if your style is slower, and you're more attentive to exposure adjustments, you probably don't need it.

in my RF experience, the M7 is a very fast all-around shooting tool. but there are plenty of shooters here who use manual metered and meterless bodies and nail exposures all the time, making well-timed images, so the M7 is certainly not for everyone.

you mention you don't relish the need to be thinking of exposure concerns while concentrating on getting shots. well, AE was designed to remedy that condition. and the M7's metering is imho very good.

 

[35mmdelux]

For everyday snapshots AE comes in really handy. For weird lighting condition I meter with Sekonic Flashmaster. I carry a few extra batteries in my camera bag. Otherwise the camera will shoot 1/60 & 1/125 with dead batteries.

I've been shooting with M7 for about a year now. I wasnt sure how Id make the transition from MP/M6 cameras but it was rather seamless. Ive got the M7 a la carte .58 magnification with the DX reader upgrade.

 

[35mmdelux]

BTW expect to pay a little more if the camera has the MP finder upgrade often seen on these cameras.

 

[Macpod]

AE/AE lock most of the time. I normally meter a scene through the finder then lock on the exposure that i want and recompose. I dont see the disadvantage in that compared to metering and making manual adjustments. There is usually enough range of light in a room or scene that i will be able to lock onto.

only situation i dont see this working in the snow or something similar where everything is white. then i would take out the sekonic and set exposure manually.

 

[Trius]

I found it hilarious that you shoot LF but don't want to make frantic zone calculations in your head! 😉

I use aperture priority most of the time when I'm shooting my OM-2, almost never when using various RFs. Weird.

 

[drewbarb]

Other folks have pretty well tackled the AE issue. I don't have much to add, except to say that these days AE works pretty well in most cameras, including the ones you mention. I'd guess that any of these cameras will give you decent exposures 90% of the time. Shoot negatives (rather than chromes) and use the AE lock feature and that precentage should go up if you have any experience.

As to which camera to get, let me suggest that you try to play with anything you are considering, to get a real feel for it. For instance, it's worth noting that the Zeiss Ikon's finder really is incredible- maybe the best finder in any currently made RF camera. Anyway, your own preferences will reveal themselves when you handle these toys.

One final thought is that you're probably better off scratching the Contax G2 from your list. Sure, it's a great camera, but the compatiblity offered by the M lens mount gives you access to a huge range of glass from several manufacturers over the last 80+ years, whereas the G2 gives you only a few lenses in an orphaned mount. Just my two cents. (And to all those Contax G owners out there, just enjoy your autofocus Zeiss lenses, and don't jump down my throat! 😉 )

 

[zckls04]

I found it hilarious that you shoot LF but don't want to make frantic zone calculations in your head! 😉.

What can I say? I'm a man of contradictions. I'm hoping it'll take me less than 20 minutes to take a shot on the rangefinder I buy though.....😎

In actual fact the LF camera is so unwieldy that I often just take my D90 along as a lightmeter, and a backup in case I need a shot fast. Doing that with an RF might defeat the point a bit.

 

[thomasw_]

Currently I shoot with a ZI and MPs. The MPs are the greatest RFs that I have used for most RF functions. However, the AE on the ZI has been useful in getting me some "quick-grab" shots that I think I might have missed while making adjustments with the MP. But I am not sure I like being divorced from the exposure decision with AE. The ZI is new to me as I have put only 6 to 8 rolls through her; so take what I write with a grain of inexperience.