bogelgelbo
RF student
I recently pushed forced to push my tri-x to ISO 800.
Any recommendation on the developing time? I'm using Ilford ID11 1+1.
Thanks before!
Any recommendation on the developing time? I'm using Ilford ID11 1+1.
Thanks before!
bogelgelbo
RF student
Guess nobody use this combination. Any idea how to calculate developing time for pushed ISO?
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Ilford ID-11 and Kodak D-76 are the same thing so anything you find out for one will work for both. I also use the stuff diluted 1:1 as a one shot, use it once and discard it. An extra two minutes in the developer should do it. More than two minutes and you'll get too much contrast for my taste.
totifoto
Well-known
tryed http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=ID-11&mdc=Search?
they dont show it @800 but I use tri-x 400@800 in xtol all the time and it is the same developing time as for 400. Tri-x is flexible so I would not worry. According to devchart I would go for 11 min 1:1
they dont show it @800 but I use tri-x 400@800 in xtol all the time and it is the same developing time as for 400. Tri-x is flexible so I would not worry. According to devchart I would go for 11 min 1:1
totifoto
Well-known
Ilford ID-11 and Kodak D-76 are the same thing so anything you find out for one will work for both. I also use the stuff diluted 1:1 as a one shot, use it once and discard it. An extra two minutes in the developer should do it. More than two minutes and you'll get too much contrast for my taste.
yea I forgot that D-76 is almost the same thing, devchart gives trix@800 1:1 for 9.75 min. So somewhere around 10-11 minutes should be fine.
j_fletcher
Member
From memory, i think kodak say to just develop as if it were at 400 iso and the latitude of the film will keep things right. I tend to give a little extra time though, a couple more minutes wont hurt!
bogelgelbo
RF student
Ilford ID-11 and Kodak D-76 are the same thing so anything you find out for one will work for both. I also use the stuff diluted 1:1 as a one shot, use it once and discard it. An extra two minutes in the developer should do it. More than two minutes and you'll get too much contrast for my taste.
tryed http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Tri-X+400&Developer=ID-11&mdc=Search?
they dont show it @800 but I use tri-x 400@800 in xtol all the time and it is the same developing time as for 400. Tri-x is flexible so I would not worry. According to devchart I would go for 11 min 1:1
Thanks everyone, will develop at 11 min and post the image here.
bogelgelbo
RF student
As promised..
Taken with a contax IIa+ sonnar 1.5/50 & A cheap motorized P & S camera..


Taken with a contax IIa+ sonnar 1.5/50 & A cheap motorized P & S camera..
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
I have tri-x (first time I am going to use) and ID-11 and T-Max developers, which one is better for that film?
I did not push the film...
I did not push the film...
Monokrome
Member
I don`t like pushing films for the just sake of it, because you will never obtain the optimum tonality that way and it is not a true speed increase. However, if you must uprate a stop, try 9 minutes in undiluted ID-11.Guess nobody use this combination. Any idea how to calculate developing time for pushed ISO?
Personally, I would go with Neopan 1600 at E.I. 640-800 for that speed and develop normally. You will get much better detail at both ends of the tonal range that way unless you are after a particular `pictorial effect`and don`t mind losing some shadow detail.
julio1fer
Well-known
I have tri-x (first time I am going to use) and ID-11 and T-Max developers, which one is better for that film?
I'd use ID-11 for Tri-X and other conventional emulsion films. HC-110 is also a recommended one for Tri-X.
Save your T-Max for Kodak's TMX, it'll give wonderful results.
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LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
I'd use ID-11 for Tri-X and other conventional emulsion films. HC-110 is also a recommended one for Tri-X.
Save your T-Max for Kodak's TMX, it'll give wonderful results.
Thanks Julio for your recommendation!
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