tri-x @ 1600

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frko

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Hello guys,

I was wondering what kind of times do you use developing TX at 1600 in Rodinal. Digitaltruth.com says 18.5 minutes and I used 24 mins and it still wasn't enough.

Help me out please,
Jost
 
Mix Rodinal at 1:100 at 20 degrees and fill the tank right to the top.
Very, very, gentle inversions for 30-45 seconds and then three good taps.
Let it stand for 70 minutes.







For 120, I give the tank a little swirl at the half-way point.

 
1:100 (but 4ml minimum for one film)
Temp somewhere between 12-20C (does not matter)
30 second inversion, 3 hard taps, stand 30 minutes, 3 swirls, stand for 30 minutes

Have done it the same way for over 20 years with a few rolls per week
 
You're right, those times are far from real.

1600 is a little too much (a third). For in camera metering at 1280, I use Rodinal 1+50 between 16 and 18ºC to control grain. That third is more important than what it seems, because it's in the border of film's capacities. Be careful when metering for the same reason: incident at 1280 is better because a reflective metering is 90% of the times fooled by any light source or bouncing light or even clear surface or clothing, and again, you easily give the film less than the minimum it requires.

Gentle agitation of 30 seconds first, and then two gentle inversions every five minutes for an hour. That gives correctly exposed negatives for wet printing.

Cheers,

Juan
 
I have to try this with the next roll of tri-x I shoot at 1600, I usually soup it in microphen. I need to try the 1:100 @ 20c for 70mins.
 
I forgot to write something earlier today: when an exposure is not perfect when pushing like this, the results can be truly unusable... For example, with a development for direct sun with important zones in shadow, this is, a compressed, short one with almost no agitation, if you contact print a bracketing of -1, N and +1, all frames are close on paper and definitely usable both for printing and scanning... In the other hand, when contact printing a scene with the same bracketing values, but exposed and developed for a wild push, the frames on paper are incredibly far one from another, and apart from the best one, the others have great highlights/shadows loss. I don't think either that caring for exposure is funny, but if there's something hard to expose well, that's pushing with in camera metering, and even more if we talk about scenes like theater, with changing light and angles, or with occasional sources of light behind the subjects...

Cheers,

Juan
 
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pushing is part fallacy. You can push TriX two stops like this, but you wont be bringing the shadow speed up two true stops. Its therefore important to realise that while such a push works in some scenes, because the lowest values can stand to drop (i.e. you are not getting a true 1600 or so) and allowing for the expansion of the mids and high values wihch otherwise would be quite depressed, this becomes a LOT harder in high contrast scenes (i.e. inside a dark building but with a window out into a sunlit exterior). In truly dark situations where you need true shadow speed there is no substitute for a truly faster film, but I totally agree that reduced agitation helps a great deal to pull out the max shadow detail while holding highlights under a semblance of control! I use semi stand with Efke 25 for contrast control reasons and will try the TriX technique you guys are suggesting here with TriX. I will also try the same with Xtol 1+2 or DDX 1+7
 
I've just rated some TriX at 1200 and run it through a M and done:

20 degs C
Xtol 1+2
30s agitation
20 mins stand
1 inversion
10 mins stand.

Total of 30 mins dev time. I shot a variety of scenes with varying contrast and will be interested to see how it looks! Specifically, I will be interested to see how it compares to D3200 in terms of true speed. I expect it to be much lower but hope to be shocked...

I chose Xtol for the finer grain and the fact I use it a lot already. I might use the other half role either to fine tune or use with Rodinal which I also have on hand. I'll report back with what I find.
 
The results of the above were surprisingly good. The speed was a bit optimistic in terms of 'real speed' but I reckon EI 1000 on the M would be workable in average to low contrast situations. Where image contrast was low, 1200 or even 1600 would have been workable. Highlights were well controlled and grain was very crisp. Grain size was quite a lot larger than at the normal speed (320 for me) but not as bad as it might have been.

Overall I am very pleased. I tried 30 mins as a starting point but it appears to be smack on for a nicely rounded neg. Pot luck!

Next I think I will try a reduced time for 640 and perhaps an even longer time for 1600 or 2000.

Grain with Neopan at 640 is appreciably finer and this is IMO the better image solution at this speed. I would also say that D3200 offers quite a bit more real speed and it will be interesting to see what D320 can do when stood for an hour or so in the same developer....
 
Nando said:
Mix Rodinal at 1:100 at 20 degrees and fill the tank right to the top.
Very, very, gentle inversions for 30-45 seconds and then three good taps.
Let it stand for 70 minutes.







For 120, I give the tank a little swirl at the half-way point.

Click to expand...

Do you keep the temp consistent by submering the tank in cold water?
 
For pushing 35mm Tri-X I use Rodinal (1:100) semi-stand development. Here is the recipe for one roll that surely has to be tweaked to your liking.

500ml Water
5ml Rondinal

- Presoak film in 68F or 20C warm water.
- 5-7 slow and gentle inversions during the first minute.
- let it stand for 120 (@800) - 140(@1200) minutes.
- one short, gentle swirl of the tank after the first half of the development time.
- Try to keep the temperature constant at 68F or 20C.


The short route is Diafine. Most folks seem to agree that with Tri-X it is best @1250, but @1600 worked for me also.

Please post your results, I am curious how it will turn out. Tri-X@1600 is my favourite low light film.
 
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