what cassettes to reload ?

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gliderbee

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I'm going to start loading film from bulk again; I see there are metal and plastic cassettes; is there a difference I should care for ? Any other advise about this ?

Thanks,
Stefan.
 
I'm testing which works better for me - plastic with removable lid or plain metal from minilab (used) with film attached to end of old film and wound into. Latter is easier to spool, at higher risk of scratches if felt isn't completely clear.
 
Roger,

Thanks; I'll be on the lookout for those labyrinthine cassettes, but they seem to be very rare ..

In the mean time, I just read about these cassette openers; if used on a regular metal cassette, is that cassette reusable afterwards ?

I might re-use regular film cassettes by attaching the film with some strong
tape on the piece of the old film that sticks out ..

Stefan.

Roger Hicks said:
Dear Stefan,

I always found plastic easier, because the ends twist on and off instead of snapping on and off. Better still, look out for labyrinthine cassettes: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps how choose cassetes.html

Cheers,

R.
Click to expand...
 
Dear Stefan,

What camera(s) are you using?

Cassette openers normally write off the cassette.

Some are perfectly happy with recycling cassettes in the way you describe but it's a invitation to tramlines (you can't really clean the velvet lips) and you can get problems with the tape parting or with it sticking in the lips or with it opening the lips too much so that you get light-strike. This is why I've never tried it.

Cheers,

R.
 
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Hi Roger,

I'm own too much cameras (I guess I'm not alone in that respect :D), but for the moment a Hexar RF and Bessa R3A are the most used. I'm also looking again at my Olympus XA and sometimes using my Olympus Mju.

I suppose the reusing with tape is a bit of a risk with the camera's that do automatic winding and rewinding.

I guess opening the lips too much is only a problem at the end of the tape, where there is some overlap between the old piece of film and the newly attached film, so if not forced open, I guess the lips will be "closed" again when the tape is rewound in the cassette.

Stefan.

Roger Hicks said:
Dear Stefan,

What camera(s) are you using?

Cassette openers normally write off the cassette.

Some are perfectly happy with recycling cassettes in the way you describe but it's a invitation to tramlines (you can't really clean the velvet lips) and you can get problems with the tape parting or with it sticking in the lips or with it opening the lips too much so that you get light-strike. This is why I've never tried it.

Cheers,

R.
Click to expand...
 
I say use the metal cassette's with snap cap's. Not really an issue opening or closing them. I'd say avoid the plastic cassette's as you might find that with some cameras they are a very tight fit, plus they crack fairly easily.
 
Ok, I'll make the choice of the eternal doubter: I'll buy 5 of each: they aren't THAT expensive, and I'll decide then what I like best (and I stay on the lookout for those labyrinthine cassettes).

Thanks all for your advice.
 
Let's see, foul ups I have committed with reloading, which may be avoided. ;-)

Trying to put too many exposures (more than 36)-- invitation to scratches, the cartridge is not fat enough to safely hold much more.

Not keeping the cartridges completely clean (ziploc may be your friend for all cartridges sitting about, empty or full)

Now being adept at using Leica brass cartridged, am jealous of Tom A's skills.

Touching the gray spring loaded knob on the bulk loader opposite the wind crank, during winding, it can cause enough friction to enable the cartridge to rotate within the loader, creating a loop in the film which contacts the loader and causes scratches on the base. Let it ride freely.

I sometimes use Scotch Magic tape to lightly clean felt traps of dust on pop open cartridges. So far, no tape residue that I can detect.

I find the plastic cartridges, especially with a shorter lip, more likely to rotate in the bulk loader during winding causing scratches on the film base.

Until a few years ago, Foma (Acupan) were still using pop off cartridges, which reloaded easily.

Trying to stretch the life of reloadable cartridges, I did give up reloading those Kodak Pop Off's from the 60's.

Though it has not happened to me, yet, a friend did not totally secure the end cap on a pop off and it showed why it is called a pop off, but not in the dark, and not empty once.

A friend loads in the dark so his last shot on the roll is not half fogged. He became convinced that that shot was almost always the best of the roll, his name is Murphy.

Luck, and be careful, it should work out.

Have not seen the ones recommended by Roger, will check them out.

Oh, have had processors scratch film more in processing than I during reloading, or during slide mounting. Sometimes they are less careful as they may have software that removes the scratches during printing.

Regards, John
 
I´m using a mix of old AGFA metal cassttes (having 2 snap in/off lids) and JOBO plastic ones, those last bought new.
All are equal in terms of dependability and rugedness, but the metal type (30+ years old)can be completely dismantled so the felt lips can be replaced if necessary. The JOBO cassetes OTOH are cheaply priced so replacement won´t drive you to dire straits (USD2 ea.).
Some people use used cassettes (Kodak, Fuji, Lucky, etc.) with film tail in it... i don´t subscribe to this practice... it´s a nice and merry way to film scratches!

Ernesto
 
I used both plastic and metal. You don't need a cassette opener if you are willing to risk occasional damage to thumbnails. As others have said, cleanliness is imperative. For fixing the film to the spool, I found surgical tape -- the old kind, not Micropore -- to be the best. Never had trouble.
 
I like plastic cassettes more. I find them easier to load. One must be careful not to open a plastic cassette by accident though.
 
A good alternative is used cassettes from the local one hour developer if you have one near. Just tape a new piece of film on to the piece that is left sticking out and load as you would normaly. I've always done this and never bothered at all with the reloadables.
 
As someone who recently went through this decision process, my 2 cents. I was / am worried about plastic popping open if a cassette is squished in the bag. That said, I have yet to receive them, so I can't say if that's likely or not. OTOH, I think it is a good thing that plastic won't set off airline sensors. If I travel abroad and develop at home, I can have a shot at avoiding fogging via xray.
 
flip said:
As someone who recently went through this decision process, my 2 cents. I was / am worried about plastic popping open if a cassette is squished in the bag. That said, I have yet to receive them, so I can't say if that's likely or not. OTOH, I think it is a good thing that plastic won't set off airline sensors. If I travel abroad and develop at home, I can have a shot at avoiding fogging via xray.
Click to expand...


I noticed that 120 films do not set off the metal detector (at the time) and used to load up my pockets with film, especially exposed film.

Had a friend who used to add tape to keep the ends from popping off, I think it was he who told me he dropped a reloaded cassette and it hit so that the end popped off, hopefully a rare event, especially with an exposed roll.

Luck to the OP, hope he benefits by the errors I have made. ;-) There are enough of them.

Regards, John
 
I use the plastic ones for slow film and metal ones with a writeable surface for fast film so I can mark what EI it was shot at.

I've noticed that the little plastic ring holding the film and spool in has one two occasions come loose on it's own on some canisters I've had for a few years.

I've never had the metal ones come apart when dropped, but apparently it's happened to others, so I guess that's possible.

I keep my film cassettes in film canisters before and after shooting as I noticed I got grit in them if I put them loose in a pocket or bag. The film can adds little bulk or weight and I've not had a problem with felt traps since.
 
Best reuseable ones ever were the old Ilford cassettes. End caps secured with a reassuring snap and fit tight. Dropping reloadables on their end could pop the ends off which was always my nightmare. The Ixmoos are great but finding them will be the frustrating part.

I'm now buying Arista Premium since the price (Cdn $ is fairly strong) is the same as bulk loading with none of the associated hassles.
 
I've used plastic and metal cassettes from Kalt. I never had a plastic cassette unscrew on me but I was unsatisfied with not being able to fit all 36 frames without getting scratches. 30 or less frames seemed to work fine.
The metal ones had no problems holding all 36 frames. I never had an issue with the top popping off either. They were hard enough to get open in the first place.

I liked going to the photolab and asking for all the empty cassettes to use for bulk loading. Works well for one or two uses, after that I toss them.
 
Stefan,
My local CVS happily gives me the empty metal cassettes from film their customers bring them for developing. They leave a small bit of the leader where they cut the film off as it comes out past the felt trap. So...I can then attach that to film coming out of the loader, and Voila ! Of course, I can only use it once, as I mangle it completely when I open it with a bottle opener inside the changing bag.
I am sure your local pharmacy will be happy to do the same. Actually, I can send you a couple of dozen cassettes if you like- I have bags of the stuff !
Subhash
 
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