newbie question

dmccardle

dmccardle

Dmccardle
Local time
4:13 PM
Joined
Feb 1, 2010
Messages
33
So I have my first FSU's...a Zorki 4 and a 4K. After loading the first roll into the 4K I realized that there was no film speed setting. Am I missing something? How do you deal with no ASA setting?
 
You have to use sunny 16 or an external light meter to know what your exposure is supposed to be.

Is that what you're asking? Or are you asking how to remember what speed film you have in the camera?
 
Mark D. said:
You have to use sunny 16 or an external light meter to know what your exposure is supposed to be.

Is that what you're asking? Or are you asking how to remember what speed film you have in the camera?
Click to expand...

Well...I guess I need to know how to adjust exposure based on film speed because there is no ASA setting. I've never had to do that. I realize that it is probably basic stuff...but I don't have a formula. Is there such a formula/rule?
 
Search on RFF or google "sunny 16" for a basic understanding of shutter speeds/aperture/ASA for various lighting conditions - it's the formula you're looking for.

Otherwise, if you get a light meter you will set the ASA on the external light meter and that will tell you shutter speed/aperture combinations.
 
There is no iso/asa dial because there is no automation or lightmeter. Some camera like non metered leica M still sporting iso/asa dial just as reminder for the user.

Google "sunny 16" and you'll find the info you need. See if that works for you. Maybe, at least in the beginnig, you might want to invest in a basic standalone light meter to guide you.
 
As that camera doesn't tell you at which speed or aperture you should shoot (because it doesn't meter the light) it doesn't need to know the film you put into it, and it's you who decide how much light you have into the scene.

You can decide it by your eyes, or by a meter: an incident (handheld) one, or a small reflected light meter to place on top of the camera.

Cheers,

Juan
 
If you want the meter to match the camera then look for a Leningrad 4 or 8 meter. There's lots about with low prices and, usually, no instructions.

Or search on ebay, again, for a pocket exposure calculator, which is a small plastic disc about 2½" to 3" in diameter. You "dial" in the time, date, weather and subject and the answer comes up. Often they open and sell for pennies.

A little OTT but so what, try a Weston meter (again dirt cheap) and get it checked whilst searching ebay for instruction manuals. They last for ever and with the incident light dome will cover all eventualities for a while but the early versions have limitations in low light because they are self (solar) powered and not an amplified signal from the cell.

Oooops, I nearly forgot to add; if you know anyone who uses 120 film, then ask them for the old empty carton from a roll of Fujifilm as it has a rough/good exposure guide printed inside for the speed of the film in the carton. I just love that "Eidt" button...

Regards, David
 
Last edited:
Westons are great but there are a few things to look out for. Broken glass on the meter is one. A second is dead cells usually low readings rather than no readngs): rare, but it can happen if the've been exposed to light for a long time. Third, the very old ones (pre-1956 II, also the most reliable, in my experience) are marked in Weston speeds, not ASA/ISO. They differ by about 1/3 stop so set the Weston speed 1/3 stop BELOW the ISO, e.g. 80 for 100, 320 for 400.

You might also care to try this article about exposure determination without a meter, which discusses some of the assmptions as well as giving rules of thumb: http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/ps basics expoguide.html

Cheers,

R.
 
I use a Weston Master 715 with my non-metered cameras, and it is accurate.

It was stated in the past that Weston speeds were the more realistic of the actual speed of the film, ie Tri-X was really a 320 speed film, but Kodak was more "optimistic" in the 400 rating.
 
I forgot to mention in the previous post that Westons are best chased after with the case, Invercone and instructions. Because buying them all one at a time will cost a lot, lot more (especially the delivery charges).

A couple of years ago I started to thin out the collection and get things I was holding on to checked and repaired. So it's reassuring to know that Westons from the 30's, 40's, 50's and 60's can all be repaired and new cells fitted or made for them.

In the case of the 30's one I have to add that I've a sticky label underneath giving a correction factor because new cells are so much more effective but the others merely needed checking and rebalancing.

Regards, David
 
hi

Im on my first FSU too. I managed to get a leningrad 4 lightmeter for £1.70 from ebay and it works a treat, came in its original box with full instructions!
There a loads still on ebay, just make sure you ask the seller if they still work before you bid. If you see one without instructions you can find them here

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/flashes_meters/leningrad_4/leningrad_4.htm

This site also has instructions for your Z4's too.

Hope this helps!
Cheers
Chris
 
I actually have a Sekonic meter (ols selenium type). I have just performed a test comparing my Nikon digital meter, my Pentax Spotmatic meter and the Sekonic. It appears that the Sekonic does still work accurately, but the film will tell the tale. We'll see...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom