leica M2 fan
Veteran
Several years ago I used a voice activated recorder I kept in my shirt pocket and that worked real well and didn't slow me down. Now I have a small piece of paper and i write down location, f stop and speed for each exposure. It makes it nice when I review each shot and helps to see where I went wrong or what not to do next time. It doesn't slow me down much.
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Only when I'm doing some sort of testing...either a lens, camera or film...
photony texas
Light Sensitive
I take a lot of multiple exposures and sometimes the second exposure might not be done for hours later maybe a day or two later. If I shoot them after each other within a few minutes I can remember what I envision. If I just don't see a second shot coming anytime soon I make a tiny sketch of the first shots composition to help with the register/light/theme. When I think I can get the second shot I take a look at the sketch for reference (Register/Composition) and take the second. Occasionally they work out 
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Down the road a few years all that will matter is who, what, where, when, and why ~ the famous five W's of journalism ~ and you don't need to repeat that for every frame, nor will anybody care if you shot with a 90mm Elmar or Elmarit or any of that other super important crap like that. Think of the shots that you missed while you were scribbling in your notebook!
kitaanat
kitaanat
I'm too lazy to success in this task. I brought a book since I was start photography which have every thing that need to be recorded for photographer but I can use it a few pages (until now). I think it's good to take note for the setting including some story of that subject (if could)
Now, when I take a photo I'll also take with my Nokia after the shot (at least they have a taken date )
Sometime I really need a voice recorder which very small these day and can record for a very longtime but I can't do that in my real life. You are really a good photographer. I'll try again after read your comment (may be a small note and a pencil) Thank you
Now, when I take a photo I'll also take with my Nokia after the shot (at least they have a taken date
)Sometime I really need a voice recorder which very small these day and can record for a very longtime but I can't do that in my real life. You are really a good photographer. I'll try again after read your comment (may be a small note and a pencil) Thank you
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Vince Lupo
Whatever
On the job, I'm too busy writing down people's names to worry about recording the settings (if i really need to check, I think the info is imbedded in the RAW file, if we're talking digital).
As far as personal work goes, I never use a light meter, so much of it is guesstimate anyways. But, I could probably look at the print and figure it out, as I'm mostly using ISO 400 film, whether b+w or colour.
Actually, I take that back a bit: the only time I do record info is when I try out a new camera, or want to remember which camera I used for a given roll of film. I did start an archive of photos taken with my Zeiss Contaflex Twin Lens 35mm, so that is a recording of sorts.
As far as personal work goes, I never use a light meter, so much of it is guesstimate anyways. But, I could probably look at the print and figure it out, as I'm mostly using ISO 400 film, whether b+w or colour.
Actually, I take that back a bit: the only time I do record info is when I try out a new camera, or want to remember which camera I used for a given roll of film. I did start an archive of photos taken with my Zeiss Contaflex Twin Lens 35mm, so that is a recording of sorts.
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Al Kaplan
Veteran
One old way of keeping track of which camera you used is by filing little notches in the edge of the film gate. This was fairly common a generation or two ago, but these days? OMG!!!!, it would no doubt compromise the pristinity of the camera's interior, and completely destroy its value.
matt352
Established
Not sure if it was 'filed' there or not, but there is a small mark in the gate of my M4-2. It shows up very subtly on the negative, but it is definitely noticeable if I look for it.
However, a much easier way for me to tell which rolls came from it (and not my SLR's) is by the exposures of the lens cap that show up on every roll.
uhligfd
Well-known
This query reminds me of trying to keep a notebook of sex had ... The fun is all in the picture, why record anything else?
And what you would really have to record is the deviations taken with the shot (overexposure as compared to the meter, the automatic P mode one etc ...)
And in the end, as with sex, it is all about the fun it was ... Balancing a check book is hard enough ...
And what you would really have to record is the deviations taken with the shot (overexposure as compared to the meter, the automatic P mode one etc ...)
And in the end, as with sex, it is all about the fun it was ... Balancing a check book is hard enough ...
Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
What does it matter? - life's too short! - it's either right or wrong!.....ever hear pros discussing what aperture/speed or even camera was used?.
Dave.
Dave.
Al Kaplan
Veteran
Wrap your Leica lens caps in acid free tissue and store them in your safety deposit box at the bank. Really minty old 'caps are quite valuable. Start adding up the cost of film and processing for all of those "back of the lens cap" pictures, plus the value of the mint caps, the trade in value of your old lenses, and you could buy yourself a set of new lenses every ten years or so.
Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
Hee hee!....or a new bag Al! - to replace that army-surplus store one!.
Dave.
furcafe
Veteran
I do, for the reasons I wrote in this thread:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58538&page=4
"When shooting, I've always taken notes recording my exposures, subject matter, & equipment using a very basic utility called FotoLog (no longer sold) on what was originally called a Palm Pilot (an early "personal digital assistant"), now replaced by a Treo "smartphone" using an updated version of the same operating system; this is not an additional burden, since I've always carried such a device w/me. When I finish a roll, the program generates (or rather I make it generate) a plain text file & I simply copy that file to the folder containing the scanned roll (the original stays on my Treo). Since I also upload many of my photos to flickr, along w/equipment & subject tags, I can easily search photos by technical data or subject @ home on my computer or online. When I use a digital body, I no longer record the exposure information, just aperture, subject matter, & equipment.
As to why, I started keeping notes to learn from mistakes when I was a beginner & to track results for experiments. Now it's more of a habit & serves as a memory aid for subject matter details, as Brian has alluded, though it's also nice to be able to look up the technical data for gear comparisons, etc., & still useful for experimentation."
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58538&page=4
"When shooting, I've always taken notes recording my exposures, subject matter, & equipment using a very basic utility called FotoLog (no longer sold) on what was originally called a Palm Pilot (an early "personal digital assistant"), now replaced by a Treo "smartphone" using an updated version of the same operating system; this is not an additional burden, since I've always carried such a device w/me. When I finish a roll, the program generates (or rather I make it generate) a plain text file & I simply copy that file to the folder containing the scanned roll (the original stays on my Treo). Since I also upload many of my photos to flickr, along w/equipment & subject tags, I can easily search photos by technical data or subject @ home on my computer or online. When I use a digital body, I no longer record the exposure information, just aperture, subject matter, & equipment.
As to why, I started keeping notes to learn from mistakes when I was a beginner & to track results for experiments. Now it's more of a habit & serves as a memory aid for subject matter details, as Brian has alluded, though it's also nice to be able to look up the technical data for gear comparisons, etc., & still useful for experimentation."
David William White
Well-known
When I'm shooting in the studio with 4x5, I put a Post-It note on the holder when I wish to indicate N-1, N+1, but I have favorite apertures and generally use one shutter speed (with strobes). Experimentation was done a long time ago.
When I'm shooting RF at an outdoor event, it's almost always one shutter speed and one aperture, set by prevailing light conditions, which I can remember or read off the camera later. If I see one shot that may need more exposure, I'll usually bracket and I can tell how much by the contact sheet. If it's really flat, I'll use a Sharpie to write +1 on the leader after I rewind, to remind me to extend dev time.
Once when I was doing a series of portraits on slide film in a coffee shop (available light), I took an assistant up the week before with little 3x5 cards which she held in the shot and bracketed, so I could review them prior to the actual shooting. Which is good practice if you can't afford to screw up.
Probably for many the upshot is that after a while your style becomes a formula: Portraits at f/5.6, still life at f/45, events at f/16, or whatever. Just making notes on the holders or on the film tongue as exceptions come up.
When I'm shooting RF at an outdoor event, it's almost always one shutter speed and one aperture, set by prevailing light conditions, which I can remember or read off the camera later. If I see one shot that may need more exposure, I'll usually bracket and I can tell how much by the contact sheet. If it's really flat, I'll use a Sharpie to write +1 on the leader after I rewind, to remind me to extend dev time.
Once when I was doing a series of portraits on slide film in a coffee shop (available light), I took an assistant up the week before with little 3x5 cards which she held in the shot and bracketed, so I could review them prior to the actual shooting. Which is good practice if you can't afford to screw up.
Probably for many the upshot is that after a while your style becomes a formula: Portraits at f/5.6, still life at f/45, events at f/16, or whatever. Just making notes on the holders or on the film tongue as exceptions come up.
russelljtdyer
Writer
This thread is a few months old, but I thought I'd add my bit for the archives. I've been logging the settings of my shots for the last few months as I've been trying to learn more about film cameras and especially now that I have a Canon P, which doesn't have a built-in light meter. I had problems in the beginning with exposure and wasn't sure where I was going wrong. Making notes helped me to resolve most of my problems. It's nice to snap away without taking notes, but I'm finding that I can take better shots and do more when I take notes.
When I take notes, there is an unexpected benefit with regards to photographing people in public places. People close to me watch me for a moment out of curiosity, but quickly get bored. People a little further away from me don't pay attention to me as they normally would someone with a camera. By the time I take a meter reading (I use a Sekonic L358), write my note as to how I'm about to set the camera, shove my paper in my back pocket, put my pen between my teeth, and start focusing, they've forgotten I'm there. The quietness of the rangefinder shutter doesn't draw their attention--they're trained to hear the sound of an SLR mirror and shutter, though. Even if they look back to see if I took their picture, I'm busy making notes again. I don't think they know what I'm doing, but they aren't interested since I look more interested in what I'm writing.
More importantly for me, though, after getting over the initial bother and developing a rhythm to taking notes, it gets me more into the picture-taking zone. It calms me down and makes me think about what I'm doing. I'm less stressed about catching people in interesting circumstances. This results in me enjoying picture taking more than having taken pictures--or buying equipment.
Below is a copy of my notes for a recent roll of film, in case someone might find it useful. I've created this form in a spreadsheet on my computer and print a few copies to keep in my bag before going out to take pictures. It's half of an A4 (or letter-size) paper. That's an A5, I know, but I can't buy A5 paper here in Milan, so I cut an A4 in half after printing. On the other side are lines for shots 19 through 36. You'll notice if you look at it that my shutter is set the same for each shot. Lately, to deal with the madness of working without a TTL meter, I choose generally a shutter based on the 'sunny guide' (i.e., lighting conditions and film ASA). So, I really don't need to write down the shutter duration for each shot. I only need to record the aperture. Also unnecessary is a description of what I'm photographing. However, that helps me to make sure my notes are lined up properly with what I see on the contact sheet when the film is developed and printed.
When I take notes, there is an unexpected benefit with regards to photographing people in public places. People close to me watch me for a moment out of curiosity, but quickly get bored. People a little further away from me don't pay attention to me as they normally would someone with a camera. By the time I take a meter reading (I use a Sekonic L358), write my note as to how I'm about to set the camera, shove my paper in my back pocket, put my pen between my teeth, and start focusing, they've forgotten I'm there. The quietness of the rangefinder shutter doesn't draw their attention--they're trained to hear the sound of an SLR mirror and shutter, though. Even if they look back to see if I took their picture, I'm busy making notes again. I don't think they know what I'm doing, but they aren't interested since I look more interested in what I'm writing.
More importantly for me, though, after getting over the initial bother and developing a rhythm to taking notes, it gets me more into the picture-taking zone. It calms me down and makes me think about what I'm doing. I'm less stressed about catching people in interesting circumstances. This results in me enjoying picture taking more than having taken pictures--or buying equipment.
Below is a copy of my notes for a recent roll of film, in case someone might find it useful. I've created this form in a spreadsheet on my computer and print a few copies to keep in my bag before going out to take pictures. It's half of an A4 (or letter-size) paper. That's an A5, I know, but I can't buy A5 paper here in Milan, so I cut an A4 in half after printing. On the other side are lines for shots 19 through 36. You'll notice if you look at it that my shutter is set the same for each shot. Lately, to deal with the madness of working without a TTL meter, I choose generally a shutter based on the 'sunny guide' (i.e., lighting conditions and film ASA). So, I really don't need to write down the shutter duration for each shot. I only need to record the aperture. Also unnecessary is a description of what I'm photographing. However, that helps me to make sure my notes are lined up properly with what I see on the contact sheet when the film is developed and printed.
jwc57
Well-known
I remember magazines asking for info before they would publish a photo. They wanted camera, lens, film, shutter, f-stop and any filter. I never kept a record, so I was never published.
narsuitus
Well-known
I keep a journal in which I record information that I may need again if I have to shoot a similar subject or situation. For example, this week, I had to shoot a 31 person group shot. Since I had not done a large indoor group shot in some time, I was able to review my notes in order to make the right equipment selection, the right lighting setup, and the correct exposure.
viridari
Photon Recovery Agent
I never really saw the point. The exposure is correct for the conditions. The conditions may change every day, with the time of day even, and that shot will never be taken in the same way again with the same result. And then the headache of trying to associate written notes with an actual negative. Egads. I would spend more time being a librarian than a photographer.
sig
Well-known
I do not. I did for 1 film. I might have an idea of what camera/lens used but often not. Too time consuming, or maybe it is too lazy.
mervynyan
Mervyn Yan
When I started to learn photography, I wrote down each combo and lighting descriptions. It was good habit for years.
Now only when I try a new lens, I shot a test roll (one B&W C-41, one Color C-41) using diff F stop, blow to 5x7 then study lens characteristic. Then decide each F stop I like the most in few groups. (max F to F4, F4-F5.6, F5.6-F8, F8 to min).
Depends on the lens rendering, I would prefer F4 more than F2, F5.6 more than F8, F11 more than F16, etc. So most of daylight photos I use only 3 FULL F stops to achieve the effects. I can usually recall the F stop by looking at the photo (e.g. F2, F5.6, F11) and using sunny16 to guess the speed range if someone ask me. This works both with MP/M7 because sunny 16 rules is pretty good. If I shot person F2/4, Street F5.6, landscape F11/16.
Now only when I try a new lens, I shot a test roll (one B&W C-41, one Color C-41) using diff F stop, blow to 5x7 then study lens characteristic. Then decide each F stop I like the most in few groups. (max F to F4, F4-F5.6, F5.6-F8, F8 to min).
Depends on the lens rendering, I would prefer F4 more than F2, F5.6 more than F8, F11 more than F16, etc. So most of daylight photos I use only 3 FULL F stops to achieve the effects. I can usually recall the F stop by looking at the photo (e.g. F2, F5.6, F11) and using sunny16 to guess the speed range if someone ask me. This works both with MP/M7 because sunny 16 rules is pretty good. If I shot person F2/4, Street F5.6, landscape F11/16.