srtiwari
Daktari
Took this picture some time ago. The range of Brightnesses is large, and difficult to capture adequately. But I think there is enough information to make a "punchy" image without blowing the highlights, or losing shadow detail. However, I have not succeeded so far.
I also scanned the image as a Positive (to later Invert in PS), as I am told this is better.;but to no avail. Perhaps someone knows how to do this well.
I am doing this more as a learning experience, rather than just to work this image.
Nikon 9000 ED, Nikon Scan software, PS CS.
I have also included a link to the large (18+ MB file), Negative if anyone wants to try...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4478845496_19675c99eb_o.jpg
I also scanned the image as a Positive (to later Invert in PS), as I am told this is better.;but to no avail. Perhaps someone knows how to do this well.
I am doing this more as a learning experience, rather than just to work this image.
Nikon 9000 ED, Nikon Scan software, PS CS.
I have also included a link to the large (18+ MB file), Negative if anyone wants to try...
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4478845496_19675c99eb_o.jpg
Ronald M
Veteran
Scan as positive never helped me.
http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/tutorials-video.htm
first try to burn it in with a soft brush on a new layer in overlay or soft light blend mode
Keep the brush low opacity, 5 to 20 %, soft edge. Better to make multiple burns than one heavy one.
DO NOT USE PHOTOSHOP BURN AND DODGE TOOLS. Although you might try using the highlight and mid tone burn and you don`t have to mask. I and everbody else avoid these tools except for rare occasions.
If not, then rescan 2 times, once for highlights, once for shadows. Follow the procedure in the other video on blended exposures.
Put the top layer in difference mode temporarily and use the arrow keys to allign the two files. They will register perfectly.
You must accept that silver films scan best if low contast, print on #2 paper with a condenser enlarger, 3 with diffusion. Some are still better than others.
Tri x is the best scanning film, plus x the worst. They all blow highlights to some degree.
I use T Max 100 and 400 and resort to the two fixes in the link. Delta 100 will scan ok also.
Ilford XP C41 film is the best scanning black& white, but requires c41 color film process.
Use ei 400 .
http://www.thelightsrightstudio.com/tutorials-video.htm
first try to burn it in with a soft brush on a new layer in overlay or soft light blend mode
Keep the brush low opacity, 5 to 20 %, soft edge. Better to make multiple burns than one heavy one.
DO NOT USE PHOTOSHOP BURN AND DODGE TOOLS. Although you might try using the highlight and mid tone burn and you don`t have to mask. I and everbody else avoid these tools except for rare occasions.
If not, then rescan 2 times, once for highlights, once for shadows. Follow the procedure in the other video on blended exposures.
Put the top layer in difference mode temporarily and use the arrow keys to allign the two files. They will register perfectly.
You must accept that silver films scan best if low contast, print on #2 paper with a condenser enlarger, 3 with diffusion. Some are still better than others.
Tri x is the best scanning film, plus x the worst. They all blow highlights to some degree.
I use T Max 100 and 400 and resort to the two fixes in the link. Delta 100 will scan ok also.
Ilford XP C41 film is the best scanning black& white, but requires c41 color film process.
Use ei 400 .
newsgrunt
Well-known
here's a qwik and dirty job using shadows/ highlights tool. sorry, forgot to screen cap the settings. no layers, just s/h. there's more contrast in the bottom end than shows up but there's room to work if you want to pull more out of the scan. Might be too dark for your taste though....
I'd also try and scan it as a negative. my usual work flow would be to do some levels/ curves at the scanning stage but have read that there's really no point in doing that and to save it for photoshop.
Fred
I'd also try and scan it as a negative. my usual work flow would be to do some levels/ curves at the scanning stage but have read that there's really no point in doing that and to save it for photoshop.
Fred
