M4-P Flash Sync Plug-How Concerned Should I Be?

[wilonstott]

I like taking my flash out of the shoe and linking the flash to the x-sync via pigtail cord (a la Gilden, DAH, yaddayaddayadda). I've read that the sync sockets on the M4-P are prone to breaking/falling out/stripping out. I obviously want to prevent this. So, questions are as follows:

-Is this a big problem--has it happened to a lot of people?
-Is there a fix that will render the sockets stronger and functional?
-Does anyone have any tips/tricks concerning this?
-Is there anything else I should be aware of concerning this issue?

 

[rlouzan]

http://www.white-lightning.com/cybersyncplus.html

 

[wilonstott]

Yea not really looking for remote pocketwizardy stuff.
Simple question.
Are my pc sockets gonna break?
What can be done to make them stronger?
DAG/Krauter/Ye--can they replace them with something stronger?

 

[Nokton48]

Ye just fixed the sockets on my M4-2, there is only so much you can do. They eventually break. I put black electrical tape over mine, to protect them a bit. Don't put sync plugs in these; that's what did mine in, sheared it right off. If you use plug-in flashcords be -very- careful in how you treat the sockets. That's about it.

 

[Ranchu]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/37086-REG/Nikon_3066_AS_15_Sync_Terminal_Adapter.html

🙂

 

[peterm1]

There was another post about this issue a couple of months ago. (Undertake a search using the search tool on this page)

I have the same problem but at the time of the last thread on this topic someone pointed me to an eBay site where I was able to buy the replacement flashblock with the replacement sync ports in it. I then bought a couple of flexiclamps - needed to take the M4P's top cover off - for about $12 US each and located on Youtube a video on how to remove the top cover of an M6 (basically identical except for the extra screw under the lens mount on the M4P.)

I needed to remove the topcover anyway as M4Ps have another endemic problem in that the window for the viewfinder gets foggy due to outgassing of something inside the camera.

I am yet to actually do the deed and remove the topcover to replace the flashblock and clean the window but am confident that I can do this as it looks straightforward it you have the tools (mainly the flexiclapmps and good quality micro screwdrivers) and if I really get stuck I know a repairman who would be able to help me. So check the last thread and read it. Then if you are so inclined download the youtube video and buy the necessary bits on eBay. If not do what I initially did (and someone else here mentions) stick a small rectangle of black gaffer tape over the flash sync nipple to stop you from losing it. (I also used a tiny dot of crazy glue on the base of the nipple to hold it in place as double insurance - this is reversible as this glue dissolves readily in acetone based fingernail polish.)

Here is the eBay store that has the parts you will need.

http://stores.ebay.com/leicaparts_Other_W0QQ_fsubZ1QQ_sidZ21181508QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

Be aware that if you do replace the posts they may well go again in future as this seems to be a particular weakspot for the M4P - I used mine very sparingly and very carefully but one still broke. As a further safeguard I will not use the little plastic "mushroom" covers for these ports in future as these may have added lateral pressure through a leveraging actioon on the port if the "mushrooms were bumped form the side - they do stick out a bit.

 

[rlouzan]

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82826