back up body

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frko

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Jan 24, 2010
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Here's the thing. I'm buying a backup/additional body for M7 (which is not reliable enough in my opinion) and I need two bodies to work with because I normally don't have time to change lenses.

So yeah, I'm stuck between couple of options.
M6
M4-2 (or M4-P; is there any major difference?)
M2, not an option, because of the slow film changing process.

I'm going to NY in a month and prices for M4 (2/P) are almost the same as on ebay, so if I decide to go for it, I'll buy it there. M6 is kinda alot cheaper on ebay. I kinda need your opinion on this too. (should I go for it at BH or should I stick with ebay...)

Thanks for helping guys,
Jost
 
What's your budget?

If you strongly prefer an in-camera meter, then the M6 would be your choice, depending on budget.

The M4-P is very similar to the M6, but without the meter. Same number of framelines, I believe. The M4 and M4-2 do not have 28mm framelines.

Of the different iterations of the M4, the original M4 is considered by some to have superior build quality, and some (some) believe the M4-2 is of a lesser build quality due to its using more inexpensive parts. If you're worried about the M7's reliability, this may be something to consider.

This is a good resource, if you haven't seen it already:

http://www.cameraquest.com/mguide.htm
 
M4-P is built like a brick and would make a wonderful backup (or primary) body. The shutter speed dial operates in the opposite direction to your M7, although you may not be bothered by this. If you are, the mechanical M6TTL has a shutter speed dial that rotates in the same direction as the M7.

If you buy in New York City you will pay NY state sales tax, versus any import duties you might pay importing into Slovenia.
 
Having had both, I'd suggest an M6ttl as an ideal back-up for an M7. Though the M4s don't have a meter and the M6 has a different shutter dial from the ttl and M7 you can't really go wrong with any of your options, so maybe leave it until you see actual cameras for sale then decide which is the best value.
 
budget, around 1000 bucks. m6-ttl is out of question (too expensive)

I think I'll go with M4, not another thing. M4-2 or M4-P?
 
I'm sort of in the same boat - I'm looking for another M body and was considering another M7 - I wonder why, Jost, you feel the M7 is not "reliable" enough.

Where will you be shooting?

Cheers,
dave
 
M2 is out because of slow film loading??

Me? I'm an M2 newbie and it only takes me a short time so thought I'd see how long an expert like Tom Abrahamsson takes compared to an M6 etc:-

1 = M2/M3 = 54 seconds:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyJf1xbFTrk

2 = MP/M6 etc = 39 seconds:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEyt94xMNUY&feature=related

A mere 15 seconds longer and a pretty fair and visual test, that's nothing be fair. :) I know I wouldn't swap my M2 for another Leica film M but each to their own of course.
 
I think the M4 is a great camera but then so is the M6. M4 or M4P if you don’t need a in camera meter or a M6 if you do. I have had very good luck with Ebay. I have both M4 and M6 and I think they are both great to use. Look for a user M4, or other, that is not too beat up a Ebay seller with very high feedback and you should be safe. I don’t buy from sellers with anything lower than a 99% positive feedback.
 
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Jost, you could sell the unreliable M7 and buy a brace of M5s. Or you could wait 10 or 20 years and see if you really don't have time to change lenses. Another fatal flaw in your post is the statement that M2 film loading is too slow.
 
cidereye said:
M2 is out because of slow film loading??

Me? I'm an M2 newbie and it only takes me a short time so thought I'd see how long an expert like Tom Abrahamsson takes compared to an M6 etc:-

1 = M2/M3 = 54 seconds:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyJf1xbFTrk

2 = MP/M6 etc = 39 seconds:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEyt94xMNUY&feature=related

A mere 15 seconds longer and a pretty fair and visual test, that's nothing be fair. :) I know I wouldn't swap my M2 for another Leica film M but each to their own of course.
Click to expand...

Ha ... I just need to work on the rest of my technique now :)



mind, you should see me fumble with that little Minox 35 … geezze, now that! that’s difficult
 
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Sparrow said:
Ha ... I just need to work on the rest of my technique now :)



mind, you should see me fumble with that little Minox 35 … geezze, now that! that’s difficult
Click to expand...

Cool! Are you indicating Tom's age is working against him? :D (j/k Tom honest!)

You know, I was going to try it out myself on my own M2 when I posted that and call me tight but I'm 1/2 way through a roll and no way was I wasting 20 shots. :D
 
cidereye said:
Cool! Are you indicating Tom's age is working against him? :D (j/k Tom honest!)

You know, I was going to try it out myself on my own M2 when I posted that and call me tight but I'm 1/2 way through a roll and no way was I wasting 20 shots. :D
Click to expand...

and I have witnesses from the Manchester meet I believe .. the trick I discovered years ago is to bend the shoulder of the leader slightly towards the door, and then have the confidence to lock the bottom on without winding at all

Tom is probably starting with RSI :D
 
M2/M3 reloading: get a spare take-up spool and pre-insert the leader of the new roll of film. Secure cassette and spool with small rubber band until time to use. When ready to reload, remove rewound cassette and empty take-up spool from camera, drop in new cassette and prepared take-up spool. Bob's your uncle.
 
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