paulfish4570
Veteran
Bw400cn, drugstore processing/scanning, 16 of 24 shots unscathed. Best scans I've ever gotten at Walgreens. What gives?
MOST Disappointment (J-8):
Joy (J-8):
Disappointment (I-50):
Joy (J-8):
Disappointment (I-50):
Joy (I-50):
MOST Disappointment (J-8):
Joy (J-8):
Disappointment (I-50):
Joy (J-8):
Disappointment (I-50):
Joy (I-50):
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Ranchu
Veteran
Cripes, it's posessed! The joys are great though. The boat especially.
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payasam
a.k.a. Mukul Dube
In the boats shot, light came around the edges of a curtain. The vertical line in the shovel shot looks like a malfunctioning shutter.
paulfish4570
Veteran
I just looked at the negs. The barge tender (boat) negative is damaged; another neg near it has a similar hole, as if if they were pinched by a machine, perhaps the processor machinery. The shovel has a sharp crease in it; definitely not a shutter malfunction; again, something that happened during processing/scanning, lab person made or machine made; not camera made. I'll blame Walgreens for that. That leaves five negatives with some kind of light damage. From what I could see on the negs, the leak comes from what is the bottom of the negative. Is that the bottom when the image is made, or is it upside down?
Ranchu
Veteran
Upside down.
paulfish4570
Veteran
OK, I took the body into the bathroom with my tactical LED flashlight. There is a VERY slight leak in the shutter toward the top where the two curtains join. It this what you call a tapered shutter? I think I read a sticky here about how to fix that, didn't I?
The body appears to be light tight with the shutter open on bulb and the tactical LEDS blazing ...
The body appears to be light tight with the shutter open on bulb and the tactical LEDS blazing ...
paulfish4570
Veteran
All right, I looked several times at the shutter curtains as I slowly wound through. The two metal vertical ends start out barely overlapping, then overlap more as I wind the shutter. does that mean one or more needs a tension adjustment? Should they not start out fully overlapped? I read the sticky on shutter adjustment, but I am still not sure of what I am looking for ...
paulfish4570
Veteran
OK, but the leak disappears as the wind continues. Hmmmmm ...
Steve M.
Veteran
Save yourself a LOT of grief and buy a Bessa R. Utterly dependable, great meter, low price (not as low as a Fed, but then you only have to buy one camera one time.
paulfish4570
Veteran
I already have a Bessa R. I bought this body just for the fsu contest starting May 1 ...
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
Here we go again. What is wrong with you? This is the FSU forum, and a fellow member asking for help identifying and fixing a problem. Recommending a different camera ....
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batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
paulfish, have you checked the shutter as per the sticky yet? Should be easy to do on the FED 2, since the back comes off.
paulfish4570
Veteran
Yuri at fedka.com said to send it back to him. He does not think it is a simple curtain tension issue. This camera, by the way, was as clean in and out as a new-in-box modern camera. He is sending me a FED 2 (D) in its place. Now I know specifically how to look for shutter-related light leak issues BEFORE loading film ... 
fidget
Lemon magnet
Hi Paul,
I've seen this on a few cams and thought that it could be common. I posted about it here a while ago, but it seems that few have suffered this problem. It's not directly caused by bad curtain tension.
As you have seen, the curtains start off barely overlapped and increase their overlap as they are wound on. This is normal.
New curtains fixed in very slightly the wrong place can make this problem much worse.
Sometimes the metal laths on the curtains have a curve which does not match its partner or the light baffles at the top and bottom of the curtain track has a clearance which is far too large.
Some of the things that I tried on mine were to wind to half cocked and to check that the laths have a reasonable seal. If not, gently push the pair from the front then the back of the gate to encourage a matching curve.
The light shields play a part here, if the overlapping laths have too much clearance they can part, so move them to give near contact on the overlapping laths (at a pinch, you might do this by bending the shields, always slightly and always gently, to achieve a suitable gap of say 0 to .1mm max) if too tight, you will feel it and hear it scraping the shield when you wind on).
Some of those marks could be down to other things, so, personally, I would use it as it is (covering the lens when winding on) to be sure that it is only this which is the source of the leak.
I have one FED which does this infrequently, so I've learned to live with it (or is that round it?).
Good luck with the replacement..
Dave
I've seen this on a few cams and thought that it could be common. I posted about it here a while ago, but it seems that few have suffered this problem. It's not directly caused by bad curtain tension.
As you have seen, the curtains start off barely overlapped and increase their overlap as they are wound on. This is normal.
New curtains fixed in very slightly the wrong place can make this problem much worse.
Sometimes the metal laths on the curtains have a curve which does not match its partner or the light baffles at the top and bottom of the curtain track has a clearance which is far too large.
Some of the things that I tried on mine were to wind to half cocked and to check that the laths have a reasonable seal. If not, gently push the pair from the front then the back of the gate to encourage a matching curve.
The light shields play a part here, if the overlapping laths have too much clearance they can part, so move them to give near contact on the overlapping laths (at a pinch, you might do this by bending the shields, always slightly and always gently, to achieve a suitable gap of say 0 to .1mm max) if too tight, you will feel it and hear it scraping the shield when you wind on).
Some of those marks could be down to other things, so, personally, I would use it as it is (covering the lens when winding on) to be sure that it is only this which is the source of the leak.
I have one FED which does this infrequently, so I've learned to live with it (or is that round it?).
Good luck with the replacement..
Dave
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batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
Yuri at fedka.com said to send it back to him. He does not think it is a simple curtain tension issue. This camera, by the way, was as clean in and out as a new-in-box modern camera. He is sending me a FED 2 (D) in its place. Now I know specifically how to look for shutter-related light leak issues BEFORE loading film ...
Hmm, that's actually a tough decision. Your exposures seem spot-on (although, BW400CN does have great latitude). A great looker and working fine except for the leaks -- I might be tempted to hang on to it and fix the leak.
paulfish4570
Veteran
Fidget, You are exactly correct: There is a gap between the lats and the top shield; there is no gap between the lats and the bottom shield. This is clear when I shine my tactical LED flashlight through the lens mount and eyeball the curtains with the back off, in my pitch dark bathroom. Oh, I'd love to keep this example, but May 1 is Saturday, and I've got to have an fsu body. I've got to say the overall build quality on this FED 2b is excellent. Maybe I can work a deal to get it back when repaired ...
pakeha
Well-known
Ditto
and he has been lurking here long enough to know paulfish has a Bessa:bang:
paulfish, they may let you borrow another for a month?, whatever, goodluck with it.
regards
CW
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paulfish4570
Veteran
Yuri is sending me a replacement body that will be mine. It is a 2D, I believe, with the mushroom wind-on knob ...
paulfish4570
Veteran
Never mind. Yuri says he can get it fixed and back to me in a week. It will be posted tomorrow. I will have a few fewer days for the contest, but that is OK. I like the pressure of a deadline.
denmark.yuzon
Streetographer
Is it my screen or the scans look moss green.. damn this cheap lcd monitors here at the office. LOL
great pictures though. It is very sharp.
great pictures though. It is very sharp.