DIY Finder-Flare Fixes

wilonstott

wilonstott

Wil O.
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Apr 24, 2008
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The rangefinder patch in my M4-P (brass-body, recessed windows--don't know if this is important) is much more flare prone than my M2. I realize this is a common problem. I would send it to DAG or Sherry, but I've got a busy summer, and I'm not sure that I could be without it for a couple of months. I've read up on a few DIY fixes--right now I've got a piece of black tape, about the size of the RF window, over the illumination window, and that cuts down of the flare a great deal, but at the cost of making the framelines faint. This is a significant problem for me because I shoot in low light quite a bit.

Does anybody have any suggestions about other DIY fixes for the problem that don't involve surgery?

And like I said before--I don't have time to send it off--I'm looking for an effective quick fix.

Thanks guys--any advice will be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi wilonstott,
I think you've done the best you can already. I tried putting a sheet of polarizing filter over (cuts 50%), tried putting a cross of black tape, and last just a square of tape on my 0.85 M6. All worked okay but with dimmer framelines. For some folks moving the eye around helps, but it sure didn't help on the 0.85 finder. And I didn't like focusing with the camera vertical and then moving it horizontal.

When a shutter problem came up I sent it to Sherry and had the finder done at the same time. I'm guessing it varies with how busy she is, but I had the camera back in 14-16 days. You might try calling her to see what she could swing if you can't find another method that works for you.
 
Finder flare was a real pain in the ass issue for me. The finders in my M6 and M4-P flared so badly I ended up selling them. The best flare fix I've found is to stick with M3's. To quote Billy Dee Williams, it works every time.
 
Use Steve's camera in Southern Cal. They did my M6 -> MP upgrade and other fixes in 2 weeks. Very reliable.

Roland.
 
My work order included other stuff, including fixing a broken meter circuit. So I recommend to ask Steve directly by email, he usually responds the same day.

Roland.
 
there is also the free solution of just moving the camera to portrait position, the flare will be gone. works the other way round as well.
 
umcelinho said:
there is also the free solution of just moving the camera to portrait position, the flare will be gone. works the other way round as well.
Click to expand...

Yea I'm aware of that--but it's not a 100% fix. Also, and this may sound stupid or at least sophomoric, but I hate focusing sideways. I realize it's something I should practice, but when I'm out shooting and try to do it effectively, it throws off my chi--slows me down just enough to miss shots. I hate missed opportunities for pictures--not that I dwell on them or anything--but it takes some of the enjoyment out of the act. Hence, I usually focus horizontal and flip at the last minute--it's a habit now and I do it without thinking about it.
 
crw5363.jpg


I put a piece of gaffer tape that's long, thin, and placed just slightly closer to the viewing window. It wouldn't hurt to try. It works just fine for me.
 
Wontonny--
Thanks for the tip on making the strip long and thin. This cuts the glare and provides considerably more frameline illumination. I had been using a piece of black tape roughly the size of the rf window. This works much better. Thanks for the tip.
 
wilonstott said:
Wontonny--
Thanks for the tip on making the strip long and thin. This cuts the glare and provides considerably more frameline illumination. I had been using a piece of black tape roughly the size of the rf window. This works much better. Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...

Glad I could help! I used to use a piece like you said, then I saw the internal component of the frameline mask and it is TINY! So I concluded that not that much tape is needed.
 
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