Need help, exposed tmax3200@400

Rhodes

Rhodes

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In a recent dinner party, I used a t-max 3200 at iso 1600. After endind the first film, I load a second one, but before I did that I change the light meter to 400 to see what speeds the camera showed with the lamps light and etc.
But I forgot to change back to 1600 so I take almost the intere rols at iso 400.
In massive development chart there is no information to develop this film exposed at 400 with ilford dd-x (what I have now, besides rodinal).
Any one knows what time should I use? Or if I should develop?
 
I'm not sure about any special pull-developers, but I think I'd try to save it with diafine or something comparable.
 
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This is a guess constructed from 2 data sheets. From looking at the TMAX spec sheet, TMZ is pretty linear with respect to contrast index and time in most developers.

Anyway, looking at the DD-X times, each lower EI needs about 15-20% of the time of the next higher EI. So I'd use about 80-85% of the time for EI 800. 6 mins or 6:15 at 20 degrees.

Even without all that info, I would have guessed just pulling development by 15-20% of the EI 800 time anyway. Haha.
 
Do not worry. You exposed for the deep shadows. That is not bad. Develop for your highlights. For the numbers you gave, I would use about 60% of the normal development time. Perhaps others here can give more accurate numbers for specific developers.
 
Rhodes,

Yes, a little less time than you use for 1600 will be enough...

And don't worry: you won't burn highlights... Real film's ISO is close to 800, so shooting at 400 is just getting richer shadows... You'll get great negatives reducing your developing time a bit: results will be very close no matter if you reduce 1 or 2 or 3 minutes, and that will be more than enough for wet printing or scanning with very high quality.

Cheers,

Juan
 
Rhodes said:
Thank you! I will develop latter this day, then I will post here what were the results!
Click to expand...

Cool, I am curious how it will turn out. I do a lot of underexposing/pushing but am not very experienced with overexposing/pulling. Basically I like the idea of using one film for different light situations and adjusting the film development time according to the exposure.
 
You got a beautiful tone! Clean, separated grays, popping whites, rich shadows and deep blacks... Perfect! That's an incredible film...

Cheers,

Juan
 
Yes, possibly! I was developing 2 rolls, this and a agfa copex. I fix for 10m t-amx films. I had my share of pink spots in the emulation side if I just fix it for 5 minutes or less!
 
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