I'm ready to order a Leica m8.2 and Nokton 35mm f/1.4 Classic MC! Serious questions..

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animefx

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Hi guys, a friend of mine backed out of a trip to Tokyo we had planned for the fall this year. That means I get $1,700 or so refunded back to my credit card for the hotel I had reserved (my part of it anyway). Instead of being upset we decided we will go in another year or so, it would be our 2nd time there.

So to "celebrate" I'm finally going to take the plunge into the Leica digital range finder system. A few weeks ago I posted about possibly getting an m9 in the future along with a 50mm f/1.4 Summilux, but I'm going to be more realistic for now and I've pretty much settled on a M8.2 used, and a new or used Nokton 35mm f/1.4 Classic MC version, and then consider upgrading the camera or lens in a few years if and when the M9 is cheaper.

Anyway, I have some serious questions though I haven't really found straight answers to if you guys could help me out it would be much appreciated!

- Does the M8.2 have any chance of getting a firmware update now that it's discontinued? My #1 wish is to get 14-bit DNG files uncompressed, even if it's slower and drains more battery.

- Is the Nokton 35mm f/1.4 Classic MC lens 6-bit coded? If not what problems can I expect to see using it? Also, if it's not coded can I code it myself even though it's not a Leica brand lens? I'm assuming it would apply settings from a similar Leica lens to this one, however I'm also worried if that's the case it's going to have other issues since it's not going to behave exactly like say a Leica 35 1.4. If you guys can clear up some confusion on this that would be helpful.

- How necessary is the Thumbs Up accessory for the M8.2? Can I really hold the camera at slower shutter speeds without blurring the image this way? Does the Thumbs Up bump into your chest/body while your walking around and makes things uncomfortable?

- I'm probably going to buy the lens new whereever I can find it, but if you guys know of a place I can find it cheaper used and in great condition let me know, I know of keh, but if you know any that are available now please let me know. I'm actually more concerned about overpaying for my Leica m8.2 now though... I've seen "Buy It Now" offers on eBay for just under $4,000... is this a good deal for a great condition but used M8.2 or should I be looking to pay a lower amount?

- How hard is it to change ISO settings on the M8.2? I know the M9 has a dedicated ISO button to help things along. Also, is there an "auto iso" on the M9? Not that it matters a lot, I usually shoot Manual on my DSLR.

If you have any last minute suggestions on a smaller lens that would give me around 50mm on a Leica m8.2 that is much more than $1,000 or so that could be a better alternative for me then let me know. I know the Nokton isn't perfect, and I wasn't originally after the classic look to begin with but it gives me low light shooting ability at a decent price, and I figure it's a good starter lens for my rangefinder.

Thanks guys.

-Bryan
 
- Is the Nokton 35mm f/1.4 Classic MC lens 6-bit coded? If not what problems can I expect to see using it? Also, if it's not coded can I code it myself even though it's not a Leica brand lens? I'm assuming it would apply settings from a similar Leica lens to this one, however I'm also worried if that's the case it's going to have other issues since it's not going to behave exactly like say a Leica 35 1.4. If you guys can clear up some confusion on this that would be helpful.

I have the 35mm f1.2 nokton and its uncoded and theres no side affects that I can see. You will definatly need the IR filters though. the consensus is that only lenses wider than 35mm need coding


- How hard is it to change ISO settings on the M8.2? I know the M9 has a dedicated ISO button to help things along. Also, is there an "auto iso" on the M9? Not that it matters a lot, I usually shoot Manual on my DSLR.

Press the set button. a menu comes up and ISO is top. press set again and change the ISO with dial and then set again to set it. Easier in practice and works well
 
The combination of the M8.2 and the Nokton 35mm f/1.2 was so perfect, it is my ONLY regret about migrating to the M9.

The M9i and 50mm f/1.1 Nokton just doesn't have the same magic.
 
$4000 for M8.2 seems a bit high unless it is Leica certified pre-owned. You can find one around $3500 if it is plain used.

If I am starting with one body one lens, I would pick M8 (should be around $2500 used) instead of M8.2, and use that $1000 or so saved money for lens purchase.

Hiromu
 
hint for the Nokton: get a hood as well. I have the SC version, it flares quite a bit, so a hood helps. it should be less significant in the MC version, but probably a hood would be useful.
 
Hi Brian

- Does the M8.2 have any chance of getting a firmware update now that it's discontinued? My #1 wish is to get 14-bit DNG files uncompressed, even if it's slower and drains more battery.
> I think, that a further firmware upgrade is very, very unlikely

- Is the Nokton 35mm f/1.4 Classic MC lens 6-bit coded? If not what problems can I expect to see using it? Also, if it's not coded can I code it myself even though it's not a Leica brand lens? I'm assuming it would apply settings from a similar Leica lens to this one, however I'm also worried if that's the case it's going to have other issues since it's not going to behave exactly like say a Leica 35 1.4. If you guys can clear up some confusion on this that would be helpful.
> No, only Leica lenses are factory coded; I had problems to code my 40mm Nokton, because there is a screw where the code should go; I haven't seen any problems with an UV/IR filter on.

- How necessary is the Thumbs Up accessory for the M8.2? Can I really hold the camera at slower shutter speeds without blurring the image this way? Does the Thumbs Up bump into your chest/body while your walking around and makes things uncomfortable?
> For me, it's completely unnecessary and annoying; try the M8.2 without first!

- I'm probably going to buy the lens new whereever I can find it, but if you guys know of a place I can find it cheaper used and in great condition let me know, I know of keh, but if you know any that are available now please let me know. I'm actually more concerned about overpaying for my Leica m8.2 now though... I've seen "Buy It Now" offers on eBay for just under $4,000... is this a good deal for a great condition but used M8.2 or should I be looking to pay a lower amount?
> $4000 is too expensive, but if you are worried about money, you can get a M8 for a lot less.

- How hard is it to change ISO settings on the M8.2? I know the M9 has a dedicated ISO button to help things along. Also, is there an "auto iso" on the M9? Not that it matters a lot, I usually shoot Manual on my DSLR.
> I find it annoyingly hard, so I always use either ISO 640 or Auto Iso on the M8

Yeah, this is my 100th post anniversary!
Peter
 
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Also second the idea of an M8 instead of a M8.2. Would actually go for the 35/1.7 or the beast (35/1.2).

Good luck
 
There probably will be a firmware update, if only when new lenses come to the market, but don't hope for 16 bits files uncompressed. The M8 would slow down too much due to limited processing power. I don't find changing ISO too much of a hardship, but it is a bit fiddly, not as fiddly as changing film halfway the roll though.. 😉. Use Auto-Iso if you need to adapt the ISO to shooting conditions.
 
I was in much the same situation. I almost popped for a M8.2 but looked hard and got a great deal on an M8. Popflash has a nice chrome M8.2 right now FS that I almost got.

I ended up with an M8 and am happy these past two days!

Get lenses, get good lenses, dont get too many but buy/sell/trade until you find what works best for you, your style and your budget.
 
I see that for any lens I used on the M8 or M8.2 I need to put a IR Filter on it? I see all kinds of variations for this filter, b&w and uv/ir filter, non b&w. Does it matter which one I get, and also how thick should the filter be?

I'm not sure what diameter the IR filter needs to be for the 35 1.4 Nokton Classic so if you guys know please let me know. I'm also considering the Leica 35mm Summicron instead (if I find a good enough deal on an m8 or m8.2) I can put a little more money on the 35 Summicron.. Which IR Filter can you recommend for that one

Sorry for all the annoying questions guys, but I just want to make sure I get it right.

-Bryan
 
Sean Reid and others reported focus shift using the 35/1.4 on the M8.
I remember doing some 'tests' on mine and while the focus shift was definitely present, it seemed okay/manageable under most real life shooting experiences. Mine would back focus, rather than front focus. I think however that this is a lens that is really shines on film. For the M8, I would almost always prefer the 35/1.2, unless for some reason compact size is the absolute priority. The 35/1.2, especially when coded as a summicron, works really really well on the M8.
 
Bryan, I talked with Igor last night, he still has the M8.2, and I think he has some used Bessa glass, but I am not sure of the mounts, I know he found some Nikon/Contax mount glass a few weeks ago, but it may be sold.

I bought my M8 and Cosina 35mm 1.2 from him a couple of years ago.

I would call him, you can get the number through his web site. www.igorcamera.com or email him.

John
 
yes, but...

yes, but...

It's been reported by many, that if you just use 1.4 and f8, all is fine.

noimmunity said:
Sean Reid and others reported focus shift using the 35/1.4 on the M8.
I remember doing some 'tests' on mine and while the focus shift was definitely present, it seemed okay/manageable under most real life shooting experiences. Mine would back focus, rather than front focus. I think however that this is a lens that is really shines on film. For the M8, I would almost always prefer the 35/1.2, unless for some reason compact size is the absolute priority. The 35/1.2, especially when coded as a summicron, works really really well on the M8.
Click to expand...
 
ampguy said:
It's been reported by many, that if you just use 1.4 and f8, all is fine.
Click to expand...

Not sure if that was intended to have a smiley after it but from my experience I'll assume yes...

In my case I had a 35/1.4 MC that I'd been using on an M6 when I got my M8. I knew I missed focus quite a bit with the M6, but I just assumed it was part of my "learning curve" with rangefinders. With the M8 I could easily do some testing and realized that the focus shift when stopping down from wide open was very significant and I had to find a replacement right away.

I'll second what others have said here - to manage the total cost I think the OP would be much better off with an M8 and a little more investment in a 35mm lens - a used cron or summarit, or if large aperture is critical, the 35/1.2 CV that's been mentioned.

Just my 2-cents...
 
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