Quick reminder: Tetenal C41 is dead simple

[martin s]

Martin, you´re right; I must confess that I use the chemicals but don´t really know what they do.
Look here: http://www.fotolaborinfo.de/fotolabor/fcnc41.htm This should explain it.

BLIX = BLeach and fIXer.

Thanks, I'll look into it. This link seems to cover a lot, too.

martin

 

[MRohlfing]

I imagine E6 is similar, but of course, about twice the number of chemicals...

No! Have a look at www.tetenal.com
E6 is dead simple, too!

"Tetenal Colortec© E-6 3-Bath Kit
Advanced 3 Bath formula plus stabilizer for processing of all standard E-6 reversal films in tanks and rotary processors."

 

[KarlG]

Hmm, I'm in two minds about home developing C-41 using Tetenal kits now...

I'm torn between the excellent results coming out of this thread (and various others on here) and the commentary regarding the shortcomings of Blix vs a separate bleach and fix that I'm reading here - http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/66907-just-how-bad-blix-vs-bleach-fixer.html.

Anyone got any thoughts on this?

 

[luuca]

+1 for the tetenal c41.

after buying the small set I bought the 5lt...

perfect, fast and very affordable.

some results:

fuji pro 800

 

[cnphoto]

We have group buys here in Oz occasionally and it's always well worth while to jump in on one of these if you want to save some money.

Thanks Keith, i'll keep an eye out for the next group buy.

 

[rphenning]

where are you guys in the USA buying this? I see the 1L kit on BandH but it is in powder form, not liquid. Im real keen to try.

 

[ellisson]

This is one from my first roll using the Tetenal kit. Rolleicord Va with Fuji Pro 400, about 1/30sec f5.6.

I reduced exposure a bit and added some sharpening, but no adjustment to colors in postprocessing. Colors seem to be right on. I don't have a sense yet of how development times affect overall exposure and color, and what to adjust.

 

[ellisson]

... another one, same camera and roll.

 

[gho]

Tried it and it is very easy indeed. Not much more difficult than developing black and white film. Opens up some more options. Thanks for sharing.

 

[ibcrewin]

I think this thread is worth a bump or even a sticky!

 

[draw_de]

For those using the 1Litre kit and have a developing tank that takes 2x 35mm or 1x 120 film, do you mix all of 1 litre or enough to make 500ml?

thanks
draw_de

 

[haempe]

For those using the 1Litre kit and have a developing tank that takes 2x 35mm or 1x 120 film, do you mix all of 1 litre or enough to make 500ml?

thanks
draw_de

500ml are enough for 1x 120 but not enough for 2x 135 (in my Paterson tank)

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I have C-41 1L Jobo/Telenal kit from B&H.
Purchased and used one year ago. Stored in the fridge after it.
Few days ago local lab did some bad job. I decided to try kit again.
Used 4 min for developer and 7 min for blix. 102 F, approximately.

Kodak 200 Gold.

 

[kanzlr]

it is indeed dead simple. I just processed some 120 format Ektar 100 in Tetenal C41.

It sat mixed in its bottles for two years now (way past its use before date), and when I poured the stabilizer into the tank, a big blob of grey goo slipped out of the bottle and into the tank 🙂

well, the stabilizer seems to be dead, and disgusting, but the other two parts, dev and blix, did their work and the negatives look very nice 🙂

a bath with thermostate helps, a Jobo processor is even nicer, but it is not needed really.

 

[Fotohuis]

I am using the Rollei Digibase C-41 kit with seperate bleach and fixer. In a Jobo CPA-2 with elevator it is really easy to do.

About toxidity: Part C of the C-41 developer is containing para Phenylene Diamine which is toxid. And the stabilizer is containing a type of formaline.

Further old C-41 developer can be easily re-generated. Both the Tetenal and Rollei kits can be easily bought in Europe.