Your favourite B&W film...

Gusmur

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Hi,
OK, so now I've assembled my fledgling RF system...Olympus XA, Stylus Epic, and 35 RC ( and hopefully soon a 35 Sp ), what is your favourite B&W film?
Thanks for your thoughts.
Best,
Angus
 
For what kind of light? For what depth of field? For which grain?

I can't do my daily shooting with just one film.

Cheers,

Juan
 
For what kind of light? For what depth of field? For which grain?

I can't do my daily shooting with just one film.

Cheers,

Juan

Oh, I knew this was going to get complicated!!!
OK...I will not do my own developing.
I will be shooting sand dunes and sand fences on the Outer Banks this summer in North Carolina.
I would like to have my photos be contrasty rather than soft...does this give you any ideas?
Thanks so much for your help...I am quite obviously a total newbie re B&W!! But very much appreciate your help.
Would I be best off using a B&W chromogenic
Best,
Angus
 
Hi Angus,

C41 black and white has a different look... It's softer (I have no better word...), so if you like classic black and white photography, I recommend you to use real black and white film no matter if you develop or not...

Now that I see you won't shoot in real low light places, you'll have enough with two different films: one for overcast, more depth of field and a bit of grain (ISO400) and another one for direct sun, less grain and narrow depth of field if you want to shoot wide open under the sun (ISO100).

The last ones I bought (cheap and great) were rebranded film from Freestyle.com: ISO100 Legacy Pro (Fuji Acros) and ISO400 Arista Premium (Kodak Tri-X). $1.50 - $2 each roll.

I can also recommend you (not so cheap) Kodak TMax100 and Tmax400 if you want to buy just one or two rolls anytime...

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Juan
 
Neopan ACROS 100 for a conventional B+W emulsion. I also use a lot of Kodak TMAX400. Contrast can be controlled by changing the exposure and development. My advice is to go for a "normal" negative, and not try to get too much contrast in the negative, since contrast can be added subsequently in digital or conventional workflows, but once shadow or highlight detail is gone, it's irretrievable.

Juan's advice to get ACROS rebranded as Legacy Pro 100 from Freestyle is spot-on. Depending on how much you buy (because of shipping) it's less than $3/roll.

XP2 Super is a good emulsion that can be sent through a color film lab. More expensive. Smooth as an ice rink before a hockey game.

There are other good choices too, but I like these.

Local contrast and sharpness are maximized by avoiding lens flare (use a hood!!!), and shooting at optimal apertures, usually f/5.6 to f/11. If you want contrast you'll also likely want to play with filters: yellow, orange, and red. I prefer a yellow-orange filter (B+W 040) for most of my landscape work.

896821977_a6cGU-L.jpg


Sand dune, Ocean Beach, Washington. 50mm Summicron-M, 040 filter, TMAX400 film (current version) developed in XTOL-Rodinal mix. The bad news: as I was advancing the film from this frame a huge bald eagle flew across this scene, came right over the top of the dune. I'll settle for the seagull but I would have loved to get the picture of the eagle!
 
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For your requirements... I would also recommend Fuji Neopan Acros 100. It has good detail, with a nice sharpness without getting overly sharp and is a medium contrast BW film. (Acros has a slight nutty flavor with a more seasoned base and a good texture)

If you need a higher sharpness and contrast, the C41 400-ISO films can fit "that" bill. I like Kodak CN400BW also over the Illford XP2.... (these films are a more modern mixture of fruity aromas, and bold flavors that bring out the darker textures with lovely mid-tones, built on a stable base with good sharpness)


Good old Plux-X is a great film too. But has a little higher contrast than Neopan Acros 100. (This film is the standard for flavor and aroma combined with a great acuteness of detail and has lovely tones and a solid base for a long lasting after glow)

:D
 
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