ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
If only the DMax was higher, it would be a very great scanner.
High optical resolution. Check.
Fast scanning. Check.
Hefty files for really high image resolution and data. Check.
But noisy highlights. X
High optical resolution. Check.
Fast scanning. Check.
Hefty files for really high image resolution and data. Check.
But noisy highlights. X
DRabbit
Registered
I've got the 7300 (7200 not compatible with Mac) -- and hated the SF software. Using VueScan I've been very happy. Since film isn't what I mainly shoot, it didn't make sense for me to spend more money on a scanner... but I think the Plustek is a very good value!
(vignetting in photo was intentional and added after scanning)
(vignetting in photo was intentional and added after scanning)
DNG
Film Friendly
I have the 7300 with SF SE software and the W7/64 upgrade..
I guess you know you need have the scanner turned on with a neg/slide carrier inserted... before you open the software
On the left upper side, there are 3 tabs, General, Frame, densitometer. Under GENERAL is are 2 options, Scan Mode and neg/pos.... Choose neg/pos and pick film type. For Negative, a dialog will open where you can pick the film brand and speed. ALSO check AUTO and CCR, this will help film emoltion coloration calibration a little.
Hope this helps... I do very little adj when I scan.. may do exposure a bit, bit not much else.. Photo Edit Software will do a better job... Make sure you turn off the the dust removal software.
I guess you know you need have the scanner turned on with a neg/slide carrier inserted... before you open the software
On the left upper side, there are 3 tabs, General, Frame, densitometer. Under GENERAL is are 2 options, Scan Mode and neg/pos.... Choose neg/pos and pick film type. For Negative, a dialog will open where you can pick the film brand and speed. ALSO check AUTO and CCR, this will help film emoltion coloration calibration a little.
Hope this helps... I do very little adj when I scan.. may do exposure a bit, bit not much else.. Photo Edit Software will do a better job... Make sure you turn off the the dust removal software.
c.w.
Newbie
I get the best, most consistent results by scanning everything as a positive, then inverting and running levels and curves and whatnot in photoshop.
What i do is just scan everything while watching television at the least messed with settings, then go through and run an action i create specifically for each film i use in photoshop in one big batch. Once the batch is done running, i go back and adjust frames individually, but i usually only do that if a frame is over or underexposed.
Most films have a pretty similar action, generally i invert, then do a conservative levels. Usually the result is a little dull compared to a real print, so i usually add a little bit of a curve to make it pop a little. When i'm building an action for a new film i check it on a few normally exposed frames to make sure it works across a bunch of photos. Once that's done doing all the adjustments is really quick and easy.
I found when i was starting that negative mode was all over the place, and didn't get nearly as much tonal range out of anything. Add to that the fact that the "negafix" part of silverfast has a grand total of like 3 films (none of which i use), it's really slow to use, and generally futzing in silverfast does more harm than good, i essentially decided to use it as little as possible.
All in all, it's a really good scanner for the price, and one of the only ones out there new that isn't a flatbed or a million dollars. It's just quirky.
What i do is just scan everything while watching television at the least messed with settings, then go through and run an action i create specifically for each film i use in photoshop in one big batch. Once the batch is done running, i go back and adjust frames individually, but i usually only do that if a frame is over or underexposed.
Most films have a pretty similar action, generally i invert, then do a conservative levels. Usually the result is a little dull compared to a real print, so i usually add a little bit of a curve to make it pop a little. When i'm building an action for a new film i check it on a few normally exposed frames to make sure it works across a bunch of photos. Once that's done doing all the adjustments is really quick and easy.
I found when i was starting that negative mode was all over the place, and didn't get nearly as much tonal range out of anything. Add to that the fact that the "negafix" part of silverfast has a grand total of like 3 films (none of which i use), it's really slow to use, and generally futzing in silverfast does more harm than good, i essentially decided to use it as little as possible.
All in all, it's a really good scanner for the price, and one of the only ones out there new that isn't a flatbed or a million dollars. It's just quirky.