One of these days....

P

Peter_Jones

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....I'll get a FSU camera that works properly.

Got a Zorki 5 on fleabay, it works, but only at its fastest shutter speed. :bang:

Nice viewfinder though, and the Industar-22 looks ok 🙄
 
FSU cameras were a bit hit-and-miss 30-40 years ago, when they were new (or relatively new) and ehen I used to try usng them. Another few decades of non-use and non-maintenance (or worse, of amateur 'CLA's) has not improved them.

Cheers,

R.
 
If like me you are reluctant to do a strip down CLA then you may want to try this. Cock the shutter and note the speed, undo any grub screws on the dial and remove, dribble a small amount of WD40 (yes I know!) down the shaft. Replace the dial and tighten the screws, now fire all the shutter speeds several times. If you remove the lens you can see if the shutter travel improves. It may take a number of shutter releases to free up the slower speed. This has worked for me with a couple of FSU RFs. Try it, how much worse could it be?
 
This camera has taught me about how the shutter timing works on these cameras.

It seems this specimen (made on a Friday afternoon more than likely) only ever worked at one speed from new ! (probably why it's in good condition) 🙄

Taking a few thou off the "entrapment arm" (for want of a better description) seems to have done the trick - all speeds now appropriate (except bulb, hopefully a final polish on the whetstone should do the trick there) 🙂 I'll report back.

Also lost a layer or two of skin from my thumb by winding it with the gears....
 
😀 all speeds working reliably, except bulb (which I never use anyway), camera is back together, film wind-on is smooth (by FSU standards). Just need a spool that fits properly now and "job's a good 'un"
 
Just want to point out a caveat on the Zorki 5 as noted on page 191 of the Maizenberg book on FSU repair. He warns not to wind or release the shutter without a lens attached, the shutter may not work accurately and can cause damage to the RF mechanism. If you've stripped/serviced one you'll understand why.
 
There's clearance on mine too - microns I'd say! As a general rule on the Zorki 5, DON'T DO IT. Winding on is the dangerous part, it would be quite easy to wind the lever with enough force to wreck the speed mechanism.

By the way, If you're filing away at the crescent-shaped arm, I'd recommend you don't. If the shutter seems to have one speed (fast) or certain speeds don't expose, try bending the little spring so that it puts less tension on the release catch (don't overdo it though). The spring is the one that bears on the crescent-shaped arm.
 
greyelm said:
If like me you are reluctant to do a strip down CLA then you may want to try this. Cock the shutter and note the speed, undo any grub screws on the dial and remove, dribble a small amount of WD40 (yes I know!) down the shaft. Replace the dial and tighten the screws, now fire all the shutter speeds several times. If you remove the lens you can see if the shutter travel improves. It may take a number of shutter releases to free up the slower speed. This has worked for me with a couple of FSU RFs. Try it, how much worse could it be?
Click to expand...
WD40 dries up in time, I would not recommend it. If you're dribbling oil down the speed-selector shaft it won't go very far into the mechanism, it won't go to the right places and it will end up in the wrong ones. I can see how this *might* help on some models but the Zorki 5 has a 2-piece shutter dial and dribbling oil down the outer shaft will simply make a mess inside!
 
Peter_Jones said:
Nice viewfinder though, and the Industar-22 looks ok 🙄
Click to expand...
By rights it should have an Industar 50 on it (most had collapsibles, some had rigid). If you make sure the VF/RF optics are clean, the Zorki 5 and 6 have probably one of the best VF/RFs amongst the FSU models. Brighter than a FED 2 with the same long-base RF. Very underrated camera IMO, I love mine. With the collapsible on it, it's almost as pocketable as a Zorki/FED 1.
 
In terms of handling, viewfinder, and looks , I really want to like the camera. It was a speculative bid (was looking for a Z6) - just gotta get it working properly.

There was/is a "stop" screw/post for the crescent-shaped arm. This was obviously in the wrong place as it prevented the arm from going anywhere near the "whirly bits"

It engages now, but it seems something is binding preventing 1/500 from working properly. all the rest of the speeds seem ok, except bulb which is intermittent - usually firing at 1/25.

BTW, it looks like I'm not the first person to delve inside.
 
Peter, you're a braver man than I for daring to rework some parts inside this camera.

Just echoing Wolves3012's warning on WD40. IT IS NOT A LUBRICANT! Nothing on the can states that it is or can be used that way.
It might act like one initially, but as soon as it evaporates it loses all slippery characteristics. 😉
 
Mr_Flibble said:
Peter, you're a braver man than I for daring to rework some parts inside this camera.

Just echoing Wolves3012's warning on WD40. IT IS NOT A LUBRICANT! Nothing on the can states that it is or can be used that way.
It might act like one initially, but as soon as it evaporates it loses all slippery characteristics. 😉
Click to expand...

I am in no way advocating WD40 as a substitute for the correct oil used in a strip down CLA my suggestion was for a quick fix on a cheap camera in the hope that it would be better than before.

With regards to the properties of WD40, the can that I have (UK produced) has the following stated on the side

"Un-jams and lubricates door locks, zippers, sewing machines, controls, linkages and cables"


So I guess from this statement that it is a lubricant after all.

I do bow down to the experts though and would not contradict any expert advice they give.
 
From the official website:

... lubricates just about anything ...
Click to expand...

Although, indeed, the (stateside) cans do not make this same claim.

The problem is that WD-40, while a lubricant, is not well suited to cameras. You want something that doesn't spread where it doesn't belong, and that keeps its characteristics for as long as possible. It fails miserably on both counts.

That said, I find greyelm never presented this as a universal recommendation, but it never hurts to clarify.
 
For those of you in the UK (at least) there's a far superior product called GT85. I have found it in cycle shops, it IS a lubricant, it does not dry up and it contains Teflon. Still wouldn't use it on a camera though but it's pretty amazing how well and for how long it keeps metals tarnish-free.

I sprayed a bicycle wheel (chrome) with it and it sat out in a British winter. Next year a wipe over was all it needed (just DON'T try the brakes - Teflon!). No, I have no connection with the manufacturers.
 
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