Using the Rollei B35.

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fidget

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I have wondered about these for a while now and have finally bought a B35 (yet to arrive).
I understand that this will be the lesser variant, but could still be fun to try out.
Are there any special features of this camera that I should be aware of before I "play" with it?
For example, I read of someone damaging theirs by firing the shutter whilst the lens was collapsed.

Dave..
 
They might be regarded as a lesser variant but I think it's a very nice little camera. OK, the shutter speed range is limited but how often would you want to use slow speeds on a camera like this. Also, the 3-element lens isn't bad at all and when stopped down a bit, I reckon it matches the one on a Minox 35GT. (No doubt I'll be shot down for saying that!)

So using it, well...

Try to make the mental connection that when you've set the shutter speed on the exposure meter dial, you haven't actually set the speed on the shutter! Perhaps it's just me but this one has caught me out a few times.

When you rewind the film, check that the rewind crank has engaged properly with the notches on the spindle.

If you use a flashgun on the hot shoe, use the camera upside down and fire the shutter with your thumb. This avoids rather strange and prominent nostril illumination and strange shadows in portraits. (Try it with the flash below the camera to see what I mean - I'm surprised the Lomo lot haven't tried to patent this one...)

Finally (and I'm sure you know this already), remember that you can only collapse the lens into the body when the shutter is cocked.

It's a very capable little camera - enjoy!
 
Mark Wood said:
When you rewind the film, check that the rewind crank has engaged properly with the notches on the spindle.


Finally (and I'm sure you know this already), remember that you can only collapse the lens into the body when the shutter is cocked.

It's a very capable little camera - enjoy!
Click to expand...

Great info, and a few things new to me! (I had read about something that can happen when the lens is collapsed, but not what..) thanks!
 
The most important thing to remember is not to try to collapse the lens when the shutter is not cocked. Never force anything on any camera.
 
Mark Wood said:
Try to make the mental connection that when you've set the shutter speed on the exposure meter dial, you haven't actually set the speed on the shutter! Perhaps it's just me but this one has caught me out a few times.
Click to expand...

Not just you. 😱
The meter in not coupled.
The two marks on either side of the lens barrel are dof marks for f8 and f16.

Manual HERE.
 
fidget said:
Are these "delicate" cameras? Searches relate to a rewind lever problem and collapsing the lens at the wrong time causing damage?

Dave
Click to expand...

I don't really think they're overly delicate. It would actually take some force to collapse the lens with the shutter uncocked, so that's not really much of a potential problem in everyday use. From what I recall, one of the gears in the winder mechanism is made from some sort of plastic and can break but overall, the camera feels much more solidly built than the vast majority of the quality plastic bodied compacts of the last 20 years. Put it up against something like a Yashica T4 in hand-to-hand combat and I know which I'd put my money on!

The corners of the body do pick up dents quite easily and it's common to find any models of the Rollei 35 damaged in these positions. My B35 has one corner quite badly dented but it continues to work well.
 
Ive used mine pretty regularly since I bought it second hand almost 30years ago.
No problems whatsoever.
 
The postman delivered it this morning.

It's a pretty little thing!
Looks to be in very good condition, even the meter responds to light although I do not expect it to be accurate.
I see what has been said about the rewind lever, the clever little plastic piece which engages the lever does look to be easy to wear away if not engaged fully. This one seems ok.

It's good to use, I'll pop a film through over the weekend (weather permitting!)

Dave...
 
Another question.....The 8ft and 20ft scale markers are in red. I guess that these are hyperfocal distances, anyone know which f stop relates to which distance?

Thanks for your help...
Dave.

DOH! Attwo kindly left a link to the manual! Thanks! and disregard this post. (note to self: read all the posts, carefully)
 
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Well, I enjoyed using it for my test film.
I don't normally put 36 frames through as a test, but this looked good.

I've got a light leak.

This frame shows three similar shaped marks. All frames have one or two, depending on (I think) how bright the light was and how long between exposures.
The marks look like one point of ingress with lower layers of film being effected too. They also "move" progressively from the left to the right as the frame number increments.
It looks as if light is getting onto the film after the film gate and as it is being wound up on the spool. The only point of ingress that I can see here is overlap of the sliding back of the camera. I'm at a loss to see how such a sharp pattern can be made through that gap.

I can line the overlap with some felt, anyone know where the B35 should have light proofing?


Edit: I found a small piece of thread sticking up in one of the channels that the back slides into. When I pulled at it, a 4inch piece of black wool like thread came out. Odd fragments were glued in the channel at the top of the sliding back.

I guess I found where the light-proofing goes!
Bunged it up with some 2mm foam (that sealing kit from Jon Goodman just goes on and on......)
I'll run another few frames......
 

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Still the same shaped mark, plus some light "flashed" across the sprocket holes. Perhaps these leaks are related?

Put permanent felt on the case joints, some across the inside base.
Popped a film in and sequentially taped up the joints, button and case lock between otherwise unexposed frames with separator blank frames whilst lightly toasting it on the windowsill.
 
This post is a little like a blog?

I'll carry on, it may help someone, even stir memories of leak fixing on these.

The short piece of film showed various intensities of the same mark, except on frames where I had taped up the turn lock that holds the back onto the body.
That's a shame really, because it's probably the most difficult to deal with.
I wonder if there is a part, a light blocking washer or the like missing from the turn lock.

Looking at the lock with the back off, in the open position there is a gap at each side which appears to be covered up when it's in the locked position. Is yours like this?

Dave...
 
For some reason the triotar is a sometimes maligned lens and yet in the right conditions it is a capable performer, about ten years ago I was carrying a Rollei 35B and got some great shots, particularly a shot in subdued lighting in a pub in Durham city. I might one day add once again a 35B in my collection
 
Thanks for the info lxmike, I'm afraid that mine may never be used by me. After another strip of test film, the mark is still there! I did get a few frames free of marks when I covered the case lock, but perhaps I missed getting light to all sides of the outside of the cam.

It can now wait for test strips to be done with other work as an when I remember to add it into the dev tank. First, I've got to decide where to try next....
 
My own feeling about this camera is that it's a lower-cost, lower-quality alternative to the Tessar and Sonnar Rollei 35 cameras.

I think that there is too much plastic in the gear train and elsewhere, and it definitely requires a lighter touch.

The Triotar is a very nice triplet, but I haven't been impressed by the structural integrity of this camera.

By the way, you probably should pop the top on your B35 and add either felt or light-blocking foam where the felt used to be. It could be the source of your light leak.

Check the back for any damage, as well.

I ended up having to mix and match two of these cameras to come up with one camera that works 90% of the time. Given the choice, I'd go for a 35, 35T or 35S.
 
ZeissFan said:
By the way, you probably should pop the top on your B35 and add either felt or light-blocking foam where the felt used to be. It could be the source of your light leak.
Click to expand...

That's interesting. After looking quite carefully at the mark, in some cases I can see that light has splashed across the sprocket holes. I had assumed that this was from the bottom casing as it's easy to see several ways for light to gain ingress, but now I realise that the extra marks come from the top sprocket.

Any guide on how to pop the top off?

Dave.....
 
The B35 was my first real camera after an Instamatic 100. It's still working, as well as the meter which is reliable after 40 years. I keep exercising it from time to time. So many cameras, it hasn't seen a roll of film for quite some time though. I took the top off my 35 S to try to get the meter to work again, with no permanent success. Never had to operate on the B35. It does feel more flimsy with plastic parts, but is well made.

Marc
 
Thanks for the ideas guys!

The top came off very easily (screw at each side of the top and the wind lever retaining screw). Inside it is a revelation! I don't know how these ever worked. There must be some foam or baffles missing.

With the top off, it's easy to see light from the film take up spool (torch) passing between the teeth of the cogs under the winder. This might help to explain the triangular shape to the mark?
There is plenty of light within the top, the bubble lens of the light meter extends to the inside of the top and sheds loads of light on the top of the wind gearing. There is hardly any seal at all between the top and the body, particularly at the front. attempts to put some there may well foul the release mechanism. There is a small gap under the wind lever itself.

I have taped off the light meter lens inside the top and will fit a felt washer under the wind lever, then try again.

Thanks for the input..

Dave
 
The next test film came out without any trace of leak!! Thanks for the tip about the possible light ingress in the top, ZeissFan, a small piece of tape over the edge of the lightmeter lens stopped this leak.
I had run off a few images on a walk around the park and can say, that for me, this gives fairly unremarkable images. I will try another film, just to give me and it a better chance.

Dave...
 
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