Alowisney
Established
I'm only getting the "thump" about 50% of the time and even then it's not very loud. I figure I need to do some surgery to replace the POD, but I'm also getting some other issues and I'm wondering if they're related.
When I press the shutter button I'm almost having to click the shutter to get the exposure indicator lights to come on. Sometimes they flash a bit and go out but when I get all the way down to almost firing the shutter they come on as they should.
Also, on my test roll, the film advance worked sporadically. I would advance properly on some frames but some would be right next to each other and others would overlapping. It was expired film that didn't develop well anyway so maybe it wasn't coming out of the canister very easily? Could these two things be because the internal mechanics aren't getting reset as they should be due to the worn pad?
I'm not too intimidated by the procedure itself so I'll probably try it this weekend. It doesn't look as bad as some cash registers and printers I've had to work on.
When I press the shutter button I'm almost having to click the shutter to get the exposure indicator lights to come on. Sometimes they flash a bit and go out but when I get all the way down to almost firing the shutter they come on as they should.
Also, on my test roll, the film advance worked sporadically. I would advance properly on some frames but some would be right next to each other and others would overlapping. It was expired film that didn't develop well anyway so maybe it wasn't coming out of the canister very easily? Could these two things be because the internal mechanics aren't getting reset as they should be due to the worn pad?
I'm not too intimidated by the procedure itself so I'll probably try it this weekend. It doesn't look as bad as some cash registers and printers I've had to work on.
RF-doyle
Member
Perhaps the POD is worn or torn and not allowing things to work properly each time? This is a new camera to me and I may make time to open mine up tonight to check the POD.
Greyscale
Veteran
Changing the POD will certainly help things. The intermittent and flaky exposure meter switch could also be caused by dirty brush-type contacts at the end of the shaft that the POD comes into contact with. If you are doing the disassembly method rather than the microsurgery method to replace the POD, you might as well clean those contacts as well.
whitecat
Lone Range(find)er
Send it to Mark Hama for a CLA. It will come back like new.
Alowisney
Established
That's something I thought about. I'm in Georgia so I could drop off the camera and pick it up and save on shipping.
ully
ully
What is the micro surgery method of POD replacement?
Frontman
Well-known
This is the method replacing the pod without major disassembly. It is possible to access the pad from the top of the camera with the top cover removed, but there is very little room to work with.
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
Very hard to get things cleaned in order to glue on the new POD using the microsurgery method...
Russ
Russ
Alowisney
Established
I had to do the full surgery. While I was removing the lens plate a green wire broke that goes to the lens assembly. :bang:
I'm going to take some time this weekend and solder it back and get it back together. At least I've got a bunch of little parts bins to put all my screws grouped into where they go.
I'm going to take some time this weekend and solder it back and get it back together. At least I've got a bunch of little parts bins to put all my screws grouped into where they go.
Alowisney
Established
My saga continues. I'm going to have to take the lens apart and try to replace the wire that broke. At this point I'm not sure it's worth it. I'm thinking about just picking up another camera and maybe using this one for parts. Here's a shot of the trouble spot.
btgc
Veteran
Even if you pick up one working, you can finish this one later. I'd just go for Lynx 5000 as they don't depend on batteries, wires and contacts, yet they are better ergonomically and finally, they have similar sub-f2 YASHINON lens. They may have sticking shutter blades (easy to cure)....though, most of 40+ y.o. cameras need some help before they can perform.
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
I'd probably go with getting another one, or a Lynx 5000 like btgc suggested. Even though there is a built in meter, I always recommend using a decent hand-held meter instead. Much more reliable. I personally use a Gossen Super-Pilot with excellent results.
Russ
Russ
Greyscale
Veteran
If you want another GSN, I have one that has a good POD, shutter and working meter that I would be willing to sell, it has a cracked front viewfinder window, is missing the yellow cover for the "under" light, and needs new seals, but is otherwise sound. PM me if you are interested.
Russ, have you ever done a CLA on a model M Yashica rangefinder? Mine needs a beamsplitter, and I'd like to have it gone over by someone who is more experienced than I am.
Russ, have you ever done a CLA on a model M Yashica rangefinder? Mine needs a beamsplitter, and I'd like to have it gone over by someone who is more experienced than I am.
b1bmsgt
Yeah, I still use film...
Hi Greyscale,
I'm sending you a PM about it.
Russ
I'm sending you a PM about it.
Russ
micromoogman
Well-known
I have fixed two or three of them and they are still working. I would never open it completely again, as it's almost as tight as change it from the front. And you know that you can fix them with a simple screwdriver? Adjust the rod which hooks up on a metal ridge downwards... unscrew the bottom plate and you'll see what the result of a faulty pad is. The rod is one or two mm too far from hooking up on that ridge. When it's hooking up you will hear the "thump". I can fix it for 35USD plus shipping. But then I change the pod.
Alowisney
Established
I bought another one that has a couple of minor cosmetic issues (cracked viewfinder glass and missing "slow" light) but great mechanically, so I'm just going to switch out the top and it'll be good as new.