Rodinal 1:100

Thanks Jaans, some really valid opinions in your post. I also used to develop tri-x in Rodinal 1:50 without any side effects, so maybe its time to return (what I did like about stand was the fact you do not have to care about temperature). Your advice about 1:100 dilution is similar to Agfa process times I´ve found somewhere and I would be interested in your (or anyone else, of course) opinion about it:

Rodinal 1:100 ISO 400
20 degrees Celsius 20 minutes
agitation constant for the first 30 seconds and then 5 secs every 30 sec.

cheers
Janek
 
The Trius method works for Neopan 400, too. Exposed at 320:

793382025_KTL86-O.jpg
 
jjanek said:
Thanks Jaans, some really valid opinions in your post. I also used to develop tri-x in Rodinal 1:50 without any side effects, so maybe its time to return (what I did like about stand was the fact you do not have to care about temperature). Your advice about 1:100 dilution is similar to Agfa process times I´ve found somewhere and I would be interested in your (or anyone else, of course) opinion about it:

Rodinal 1:100 ISO 400
20 degrees Celsius 20 minutes
agitation constant for the first 30 seconds and then 5 secs every 30 sec.

cheers
Janek
Click to expand...

I use a formula similar to what you mentioned above for TRI-X, HP5 and Neopan.

However,

I invert and twist for 5/6 seconds at the start of every minute - not every 30 seconds. There have been a number of articles written on Rodinal and how it works better with less agitation. There was an article just here on rangefinder that someone posted. I find this works well for me and agitate once a minute. I agitate every 30 seconds for D76 1:1 as it works better with more frequent agitation.

Like I mentioned earlier, I use 1:100 for film shot under contrasty conditions, so less agitation is better as it gives the shadows a chance to develop without getting the highlights hot.

Also, I try and keep the temperature at 19C without ever going over 20C. I am quite fanatical about this as I get better grain with lower temperatures. Also, try and keep wash water within 5C of processing temp. as radical increases/decreases can exaggerate grain through reticulation. Rodinal with the above films already produces larger grain than with D76.

Hope this helps. These are just my personal observations through many poor attempts!

cheers
 
Dear all,

I have been following thisthread for a long time and finally I've gotten downto using rodinal to develop my film.

However i've been getting some sort of uneven developing, as can be seen in the below picture.
4634791472_6d3b0734f8.jpg


Apparently the right side is overdeveloped. Any ideas? I've followed the instructions exactly and i'm not sure what's going on. The whole roll is like this, and the previous one was also the same.
 
The only time I've had results where part of the film is underdeveloped is when I've not had enough liquid in the tank.
 
Yeah i know that having too little will cause underdevelopment. But i had 5ml of rodinal in a patterson universal reel with only 1 film inside. Should be more than enough.
 
This thread has been very useful, thanks everyone. My first faltering steps in film development were interesting, but then I started reading up on this technique, and have been having a blast trying out different permutations, pushing crazily and generally relaxing.

Below is a test shot, BW400cn C41 B+W, exposed more or less at box speed. Cross-processed in 1+100 Rodinal, at about 21 degrees, in hard tap water. Stood for an hour in total, with three inversions at the start, and four approximately at the halfway mark.

 
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Hi Everyone,
So getting excited by all the great images in Rodinal 1:100 I did a test.

Hmmm ... Super dense negs & really high base fogging. Is this a normal thing with Stand?

The KB25 was high contrast & seemed 2 stops over something, exposed or developed. The Plus X is there for comparison.

Either way I really like the smoothness of the KB25 in the soup but it sure is thick!

Bright Arizona sun... 2 pm
Leica M6TTl & Canon 1.2 @ 1.2
KB25
Red 25 filter
1.2 & 1/1000 sec.
Rodinal 1:100
600ml
1 min inversion & 60 stand
The room temp was about 80 ... if that makes a difference... 80 is cool hare in AZ.

Any Ideas about the fogging or thick negs?

Steve

My friend Jason getting ready for his 6th Burning Man. Fancy new hair.

KB25


Plus X (fresh)
 
I'm sure that 80F had a lot to do with it. I developed 3 sheets of Arista.EDU-Ultra 200 yesterday. The film was exposed at ASA 100 with a B+W yellow green filter. Rodinal 1:100, continuous agitation in a Jobo 3010 drum on a Beseler motor base for 10 minutes at 75F. Perfect! No relation to stand developing. It takes 3 liters to fill the 3010 drum so stand isn't an option. I am falling in love with Rodinal again after several decades absence.

Added: 7ml Rodinal + 700ml water for 7 sheets of 4x5 film. No sign of developer exhaustion.
 
I used to reduce agitation to just one slow inversion per minute, and noticed some uneven development (stains around sprocket holes). So with 1:50 I invert and twist at least a couple of times every minute.

As far as fogging, at 1:100 and lower borax+ascorbate method helps. Here is a rather extreme 1:200 example:



This was on a sunny, bright and contrasty day. Perhaps this was a little too much of the compensation effect, but it illustrates the method quite well. Rodinal 1:200, borax 1g/L, 1.5 hrs
 
Yeah Ive done it too, it has very satisfying results: full tonal range, Wide Dynamics, DiMensiOnality, TexTurE and Moderate contrast, ..which can be enhanced by maintaining the time but increasing the temperature..
Very Easy to use, works well with HP5, Neopan400, Acros & PanF.
 
I pushed HP5+ to 1600:

Rodinal 1+100
120 Minutes
20 gentle inversions during the first minutes, then 10 inversions at the 60 minutes mark.


 
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