Correct way to pre-tension film

[Steve_F]

Ive had a couple of frames on my M6TTL; one double exposure and one overlap on separate films in the last 7 or 8 rolls.
I was given advice here on taking the slack out but know it was more luck than skill that helped me.
It could be that I sometimes catch the rewind lever with my finger but what is the recognised method of taking the slack out?

I admit that having dev'd a second roll after the first overlap and every frame was evenly spaced I put it down to 'pilot error' and haven't bothered pre-tensioning another roll since.
All advice, as always, is welcome.

Steve.

 

[varjag]

It's a malfunction in your camera. There is no need to pre-tension anything.

 

[ampguy]

true, you shouldn't need to tension film with the rewind crank, but it could result in sharper photos.

The looser your film is in the sprockets, the more likely it is to bounce around when your shutter goes off.

This is possibly why film users are such photoshop lovers, so they can sharpen the heck out of their loose negatives, where a sensor is at one with the body.

 

[karlori]

Well i would like to know how to tension film with my 500CM ... i Always feel like the film could be more straight... dunno how to explain i have a gut feeling the film isn't really flat in there... With the m7 i load, wind and then spin the rewind knob until i get a bit of resistance, thats what i saw on youtube thats how i learnt.

 

[Steve_F]

It's a malfunction in your camera. There is no need to pre-tension anything.

It better hadn't be. That'll be the third adjustment in a year; RF out verically, Sticking framelines (finder upgraded to MP at the same time).

Anyone want to buy the Leica set-up below?

Steve.😛

 

[ampguy]

well

well

after you sort out the tension thing, it should be a pretty desirable kit 😉

It better hadn't be. That'll be the third adjustment in a year; RF out verically, Sticking framelines (finder upgraded to MP at the same time).

Anyone want to buy the Leica set-up below?

Steve.😛

 

[Steve_F]

It's a malfunction in your camera. There is no need to pre-tension anything.

It better hadn't be. That'll be the third adjustment in a year; RF out verically, Sticking framelines (finder upgraded to MP at the same time).

Anyone want to buy the Leica set-up below?

Steve.:bang:

 

[Steve_F]

after you sort out the tension thing, it should be a pretty desirable kit 😉

To be honest I'm pretty p*ssed off at the thought of sending it in, being without it and spending yet MORE bloody money on it.
Still got my FM3A - maybe I'll buy some Zeiss for it...

Steve.

 

[Prest_400]

true, you shouldn't need to tension film with the rewind crank, but it could result in sharper photos.

The looser your film is in the sprockets, the more likely it is to bounce around when your shutter goes off.

This is possibly why film users are such photoshop lovers, so they can sharpen the heck out of their loose negatives, where a sensor is at one with the body.

I've always had the habit of having film tensioned. After advancing a frame or two I tend to give tension with the crank. I always Imagined film would be loose without it.
An odd thing I read about this is that it will give film flatness problems, I don't know how, though.

 

[MartinP]

With you seeing a double exposure I'd be inclined to make sure you aren't knocking the rewind switch, on the front of the camera. 'Loose' film cannot give you a double exposure, if the transport works at all.

 

[Steve_F]

I'm aware of the odd occasion when I handled the camera and pressed the lever whilst holding it. A hold I had from my SLR's.
I would have thought that if it was a transport issue it would be quite frequent.

Steve.

 

[Steve_F]

OK, breathe slooowly and deeply.
My rant is over. I shall watch my technique very carefully (finger placement) and take it from there.
If anything crops up get it sent in for a check.
Anybody recommend any UK places?

Steve.