lhsa
Member
i have a M8 and just bought a B+W 093 filter to get into IR photography. i've seen bits and pieces of posts where it mentions the challenges in exposure, focusing and the like. i tried to search, but couldn't find clear guidance since "IR" is not recognized by this website's search engine.
can anyone provide what i need to know to take IR shots?
TIA
can anyone provide what i need to know to take IR shots?
TIA
ampguy
Veteran
well, maybe start out on some sunny days, crank the ISO up to 640 or whatever you need to get reasonable shutter speeds, maybe set the white balance to tungsten, start with a lens that has a red IR mark on the focus (you'll need to focus closer, but how much depends on the lens, etc.).
Some lens have "hot spots" so you might want to search and experiment on that.
Some lens have "hot spots" so you might want to search and experiment on that.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76487&highlight=infrared+exposure
Other RFF members suggest using the M8 on Auto, stating the metering is good enough. Start there, and then use histograms on playback for fine tuning. Some lenses, such as the original Rigid Summicron, are highly corrected and the IR marks are within F2 DOF. Shoot at F4 or F5.6, you should be good.
I just ordered a full-spectrum Olympus EP2, Visible+Infrared. I will be using apochromatic lenses with it.
Other RFF members suggest using the M8 on Auto, stating the metering is good enough. Start there, and then use histograms on playback for fine tuning. Some lenses, such as the original Rigid Summicron, are highly corrected and the IR marks are within F2 DOF. Shoot at F4 or F5.6, you should be good.
I just ordered a full-spectrum Olympus EP2, Visible+Infrared. I will be using apochromatic lenses with it.
lhsa
Member
thanks for all the tips. btw, i'll be shooting with either a 35 summicron ASPH or a voigtlander 21.
it appears the biggest challenge will be focusing and i assume i'll just need to focus closer and then see if the results are sharp?
it appears the biggest challenge will be focusing and i assume i'll just need to focus closer and then see if the results are sharp?
kzphoto
Well-known
I wonder if you could have the RF adjusted for IR use?
ampguy
Veteran
yes
yes
there are tables and spreadsheets with links on getdpi and l-camera forum, but since you have an M8, just focus bracket and make note where sharpest focus is for you and your lens, and your filter.
yes
there are tables and spreadsheets with links on getdpi and l-camera forum, but since you have an M8, just focus bracket and make note where sharpest focus is for you and your lens, and your filter.
No- you cannot adjust the RF because each lens has a different amount of focus shift.
Wide-Angle lenses have a lot of Depth of Field, and will cover the shift.
Some lenses do not require focus compensation. Apochromatic lenses and mirror lenses are close enough, do not usually require compensation. The Summicrons are really good.
The Micro-Nikkor 55/2.8 on the Kodak DCS200ir, hand-held, no refocusing, wide-open at F2.8. This is an early DSLR, and the first Infrared commercial off-the-shelf Digital IR camera.
and to add- I have one Calcium Fluorite lens, a Pentax 85/4.5 Ultra-Achromat, that will be a perfect match for the full-spectrum Olympus EP2 just ordered. It covers UV through Near-Infrared with no need to change focus.
Wide-Angle lenses have a lot of Depth of Field, and will cover the shift.
Some lenses do not require focus compensation. Apochromatic lenses and mirror lenses are close enough, do not usually require compensation. The Summicrons are really good.
The Micro-Nikkor 55/2.8 on the Kodak DCS200ir, hand-held, no refocusing, wide-open at F2.8. This is an early DSLR, and the first Infrared commercial off-the-shelf Digital IR camera.
and to add- I have one Calcium Fluorite lens, a Pentax 85/4.5 Ultra-Achromat, that will be a perfect match for the full-spectrum Olympus EP2 just ordered. It covers UV through Near-Infrared with no need to change focus.
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jbr
Established
For setting the white balance, two manual methods are recommended:
1. without IR-filter, set the WB pointing at a red surface;
2. with the IR-filter mounted, set the WB pointing at a green surface.
popeye
Established
The link below was posted here somewhere but I couldn't find it...
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/m8-infrared.shtml
Combined with some of the above info you should be able to get a good grasp of what is at hand. Good luck with your adventures and please post some results when you can.
-popeye
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/m8-infrared.shtml
Combined with some of the above info you should be able to get a good grasp of what is at hand. Good luck with your adventures and please post some results when you can.
-popeye
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
No- because the offset varies per lens - from nearly zero for some apo lenses to about the 5.6 DOF mark for others.
jaapv
RFF Sponsoring Member.
beewee
Member
For metering, the M8 meter is quite accurate in both visible light and IR. I find that I can generally shoot outdoors on a moderately bright day with: ISO 320 and 640 using 1/60s at f/5.6
I typically shoot with manual exposure as I find that with the above settings I only need to adjust by 1/2 stop if the exposure is too bright or too dark.
As for focus, 99% of my IR photos are shot on a 28mm/2.8 ASPH and I find that aligning the center focus to the '1' part of the 10 m setting will give me decent infinity focus and if there are foreground that's closer, I can shoot anywhere between 3m-10m. For proper focus, it's best to test your lenses at different focusing distance to get a feel of what settings will work for a given distance.
As mentioned above, each lens has different IR focusing characteristics so you will need to test and practice.
I typically shoot with manual exposure as I find that with the above settings I only need to adjust by 1/2 stop if the exposure is too bright or too dark.
As for focus, 99% of my IR photos are shot on a 28mm/2.8 ASPH and I find that aligning the center focus to the '1' part of the 10 m setting will give me decent infinity focus and if there are foreground that's closer, I can shoot anywhere between 3m-10m. For proper focus, it's best to test your lenses at different focusing distance to get a feel of what settings will work for a given distance.
As mentioned above, each lens has different IR focusing characteristics so you will need to test and practice.