best way to open the collars around winding knobs or shutter release buttons

[f1.0]

Hello.

Many cameras have these collars or caps on or around the winding knobs or around the shutter release buttons. I have seen many people recommend copper flexiclamps from micro tools. A set of three costs around $50 over there.

In my past experience, I have opened a collar with a set of pliers by placing a rubber grip sheet (commonly used to open jars etc.) around the collar. Still got a tiny scratch on the collar that I would like to avoid in the future.

So, I don't have a flexi clamp. At present, it is too expensive for me to buy a set, plus one a clamp may open only one size of collars.

What do other use in the place of those copper flexi clamps or wrenches? I could use any number of methods, but I wanted to gather feedback on methods that use commonly available tools and do not damage the finish on the camera parts.

If people can post their interesting past experiences in what difficulty they faced in this problem and how they surmounted it, that would be helpful too.

Thanks.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

For the retaining rings around a Nikon F shutter release and the like- I use a pair of needle-nosed pliers with a very fine tip, Sears Craftsman. This assumes the cap has holes in it for a spanner. For stiffer rings with the small holes- I files down a pair of pliers.

For retaining rings without holes, I use hard rubber gromits like those found in electrical deparments for running cables through project boxes.

 

[John Hermanson]

For the Nikon F, you have to turn the A-R collar part way to expose the set screw that holds the collar in place. Loosen set screw first, then you can unscrew collar. Fine steel tweezers should work. John

 

[f1.0]

For the retaining rings around a Nikon F shutter release and the like- I use a pair of needle-nosed pliers with a very fine tip, Sears Craftsman. This assumes the cap has holes in it for a spanner. For stiffer rings with the small holes- I files down a pair of pliers.

Does using the long nose pliers somehow mar the finish around the slots, i.e. if the paint on the F is still good?

For retaining rings without holes, I use hard rubber gromits like those found in electrical deparments for running cables through project boxes.

That is interesting. Could you explain a bit more? How does your method deal with difficult or obstinate collars, e.g. like the ones on Canonets or Canon A-1?

 

[f1.0]

For retaining rings without holes, I use hard rubber gromits like those found in electrical deparments for running cables through project boxes.

Also, what kind of grommet do you use? Something like the following?
http://cableorganizer.com/grommet/rpd-grommets.htm

 

[Sonnar Brian]

I have my common stuff laid out in this thread on the Canonet:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90468

 

[f1.0]

Brian, that is an excellent post you made regarding the Canonet! A lot of work went in to that. Much appreciated.

That rubber cork looks interesting. Do you just grip the retaining ring, or collar, around the shutter release button and turn? Or do you have to apply some naphtha first?

Thanks.

 

[Sonnar Brian]

Most of the Canonets that I've opened, the retaining ring comes off with just the hollow rubber cork. I've not resorted to Naptha. Some could get stuck, but so far I have been lucky. A rubber mouse-pad is also good to have in the camera repair kit.

 

[newspaperguy]

Here's another thought for grasping small knobs & rings:

http://www.zorkikat.com/the-zorkikat-wrench/189/

 

[efkbl]

I replaced the top plate of a Leica M2 using only a Leatherman knife. To avoid damaging the collars, I covered the pliers with duct tape, it worked quite good.