Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
This is the Rollei Pan 25 Black & White I love so much, but these are from the 120 format instead of the 135 I normally shoot this film in. I love these two shots. This film overexposes very easily and I always forget to compensate for it when I need to. These two shots showcased here are, As-Scanned, Auto-Levels, Auto-Levels with extra Manual adjust, using a CanoScan 8800F and Photoshop CS4.
Which ones do you guys like best?
No.1
No.2
No.3
No.4
No.5
No.6
Which ones do you guys like best?
No.1
No.2
No.3
No.4
No.5
No.6
Last edited:
Morry Katz
Established
In both cases the third image has the most detail and contrast.
Cheers
Morry Katz - Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
Cheers
Morry Katz - Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
naruto
GASitis.. finally cured?
No 3 and 6. I believe they have the best balance in details and contrast.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Interesting that not many people like the less contrast look. No 3 and 5 are the closest to what it looked like to the eye. It was a cloudy day but the sun came through for the door picture. The bricks were just outside of a bridge so there was shade, but plenty of sun reflected off the other walls.
robert blu
quiet photographer
First image I prefer N° 2 (3 too contrasty) and in the second I prefer N° 3 (1 and 2 too weak). Just my opinion, taste are taste...
rob
rob
It isn't about the contrast to me, but the lack of detail and blown out highlights that keeps me from choosing anything but the darkest ones.
thegman
Veteran
3 and 6, I think that strong contrast looks good for just about everything except people.
robklurfield
eclipse
Pirate, I like Nos. 2 & 5, but I guess it depends on where you want to draw your viewers' eyes.
I'm curious how you like working with this stock as I'm thinking of buying a box of it.
What developer did you use?
I'm curious how you like working with this stock as I'm thinking of buying a box of it.
What developer did you use?
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
I really do like this film even though it's more a portrait film. When you start shooting in shadowed areas, it really works. In normal daylight, I've found that stopping down two stops works great for gathering details without blowing anything out.
I've been using Tetenal, Neofin Blau. Easy to get while I'm here in Germany, but I'll be stateside again soon so I'll have to learn a different one. I'd like to try the Caffenol developer. Probably start that in mid/late November, and I'll post to let everyone know how it worked.
I really do recommend this film, but I am biased in what I like. I seem to a little off from the mainstream.
The best I've found for this film is this:
Shots in sunlight, go 2 stops dark.
In a shadowed area like the side of a building shadows (on a sunny day) 1 stop + works great.
For darker shadows, like an alley, 2 stops + works.
Anything beyond that I judge by my Gossen and follow it's readings.
The film varies a little from normal B&W like Tri-X, but I like it. One shot I did in a restaurant with light coming in from the window onto the subjects, I blew way out because everything else in the room was so dark. The amount of details that came in on those two subjects was just amazing. When scanned, it was so easy to lower the EV in Photoshop and watch the details emerge.
I've got a box of the Orthochromatic in this Rollei 25 also, but have been packing and have not been able to finish the first roll. All my developing stuff is getting packed too so I won't get any rolls developed until at least mid November.
I've been using Tetenal, Neofin Blau. Easy to get while I'm here in Germany, but I'll be stateside again soon so I'll have to learn a different one. I'd like to try the Caffenol developer. Probably start that in mid/late November, and I'll post to let everyone know how it worked.
I really do recommend this film, but I am biased in what I like. I seem to a little off from the mainstream.
The best I've found for this film is this:
Shots in sunlight, go 2 stops dark.
In a shadowed area like the side of a building shadows (on a sunny day) 1 stop + works great.
For darker shadows, like an alley, 2 stops + works.
Anything beyond that I judge by my Gossen and follow it's readings.
The film varies a little from normal B&W like Tri-X, but I like it. One shot I did in a restaurant with light coming in from the window onto the subjects, I blew way out because everything else in the room was so dark. The amount of details that came in on those two subjects was just amazing. When scanned, it was so easy to lower the EV in Photoshop and watch the details emerge.
I've got a box of the Orthochromatic in this Rollei 25 also, but have been packing and have not been able to finish the first roll. All my developing stuff is getting packed too so I won't get any rolls developed until at least mid November.
randomm
Well-known
sepiareverb
genius and moron
The Ortho is a little contrastier in my experience in the same developer. I've been using the Rollei/MACO RHS developer with these two films and getting much better results than with anything else. I had been running it in Rodinal at 1:25 or 1:50.
Not the easiest films to use, I treat them like the most finicky of slide films when exposing (bracket, bracket, bracket), but the results on paper are absolutely stunning.
Not the easiest films to use, I treat them like the most finicky of slide films when exposing (bracket, bracket, bracket), but the results on paper are absolutely stunning.
Requin
Established
I would like to see the pix not photoshopped. Now you can't judge them.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
I'm waiting till I get moved in at my new place in a month before I set up my darkroom and start making actual pix. I prefer the paper over the digital too, but right now, that's what I have to go by.