kyler.
Established
Hey guys,
I recently started to get into film and am going to be developing my own negatives. I read that it is good to stick with one type of film and one type of developer for a little while to really get to know it.
I know that my personal preference is tri-x for film, so I am wondering which developer you guys recommend to go with it?
Thanks,
Kyle
I recently started to get into film and am going to be developing my own negatives. I read that it is good to stick with one type of film and one type of developer for a little while to really get to know it.
I know that my personal preference is tri-x for film, so I am wondering which developer you guys recommend to go with it?
Thanks,
Kyle
Tim Gray
Well-known
XTOL is a good one. A lot of people also recommend D76 or Rodinal.
mrb
Established
HC-110 and D-76 have both worked well for me.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
D-76 1+1 is the classic choice for Tri-X and what I use most of the time. It works beautifully on the hundreds of rolls of Tri-X I've developed in it. Rodinal is beautiful to but grittier looking, with sharper grain (though it is not really big or ugly) and a little harsher tonality. Works great for some stuff, some prefer it for everything.
Xtol and Tmax Developer works well too. D-76 1+1 would be my first choice to try Tri-X to start.
All Tri-X 35mm in D-76 1+1, EI-320
Xtol and Tmax Developer works well too. D-76 1+1 would be my first choice to try Tri-X to start.
All Tri-X 35mm in D-76 1+1, EI-320
Paul_C
Established
diafine is good fun with it
W
wlewisiii
Guest
diafine at EI1600.
(D76 is ok, but diafine is the cat's pajamas. The rest? Forgettaboutit)
(D76 is ok, but diafine is the cat's pajamas. The rest? Forgettaboutit)
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
I suspect that D76 1:1 for 10 min. and TriX is the proverbial match made in heaven. I used that combination for decades (and still use it occasionally).
I just spent last month scanning and uploading on to Flickr about 400 shots, all done in Toronto between 1985-86. All done with that - I had forgotten how good that looks. Not the finest grain maybe - and occasionally a bit "rough around the edges" - but you can always pull a print that looks OK from it.
I have seen prints made from that stuff - taken up to 16x20 and beyond and they still hold their own.
Look at the work by photographers like Salgado, Costa Manos and most of the other classic Magnum shooters - that was their main combination, TriX/D76.
Only problem with D76 is that in it's 1 gallon pack - you better use it up in the next 3-4 weeks as it has a tendency to go more active with storage and increase grain a bit.
Whichever "soup" you choose - be consistent with things like times and agitation and once you nailed it down to your style of shooting - you dont have to contend with developer being a factor in how the negative will come out. There are plenty of other ways to screw up!
If you go to our Flickr and tag it "Toronto" or just "1986" or "1986" a lot of theses shots with triX/D76 should pop up. Once I have finished the last 5 rolls to scan, I will make up a set on Flickr simply named "Back to Basics".
I just spent last month scanning and uploading on to Flickr about 400 shots, all done in Toronto between 1985-86. All done with that - I had forgotten how good that looks. Not the finest grain maybe - and occasionally a bit "rough around the edges" - but you can always pull a print that looks OK from it.
I have seen prints made from that stuff - taken up to 16x20 and beyond and they still hold their own.
Look at the work by photographers like Salgado, Costa Manos and most of the other classic Magnum shooters - that was their main combination, TriX/D76.
Only problem with D76 is that in it's 1 gallon pack - you better use it up in the next 3-4 weeks as it has a tendency to go more active with storage and increase grain a bit.
Whichever "soup" you choose - be consistent with things like times and agitation and once you nailed it down to your style of shooting - you dont have to contend with developer being a factor in how the negative will come out. There are plenty of other ways to screw up!
If you go to our Flickr and tag it "Toronto" or just "1986" or "1986" a lot of theses shots with triX/D76 should pop up. Once I have finished the last 5 rolls to scan, I will make up a set on Flickr simply named "Back to Basics".
Colin Corneau
Colin Corneau
Tom's quite right to advocate consistency in developing. Keep the temperature, time and especially agitation consisent to truly get a handle on what you're doing.
I'm a Rodinal fan for everything - looks very distinctive (and good) and cheap, too...keeps forever even after it discolours. But D-76 is a classic one too and I've heard nothing but good things about XTol (haven't used it myself).
Pick one, nail down a development time that works for *you*...then keep at it a while and see how you feel.
I'm a Rodinal fan for everything - looks very distinctive (and good) and cheap, too...keeps forever even after it discolours. But D-76 is a classic one too and I've heard nothing but good things about XTol (haven't used it myself).
Pick one, nail down a development time that works for *you*...then keep at it a while and see how you feel.
zenlibra
Crazy Leica Fox
I would love to try D-76 but I only soup one roll a week. HC-110 is good as well though, and a bottle lasts quite some time.
fixbones
.......sometimes i thinks
Rodinal fan here as well.
Tried D76 when i first started off. Lovely developer but the mixing and short shelf life kinda put me off a little.
Now i develop all my tri-x rolls in rodinal, from ISO200 to ISO1600.
Tried D76 when i first started off. Lovely developer but the mixing and short shelf life kinda put me off a little.
Now i develop all my tri-x rolls in rodinal, from ISO200 to ISO1600.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I have gotten the nicest tonality with D-76 1:1.
Chris101
summicronia
HC110 is what I use 99% of the time. Probably coffee is next. I don't like the smell of rodinol, and D76 is too much bother to mix from the powder, and then only have it last a short while. But i have used both of those in the past, and they work just fine.
Lflex
Lflex
HC 110 easy economical and the concentrate last forever. Rodinal is nice too if you fancy the characteristic grain.
chrismoret
RF-addict
Used D76 1+1 a lot. But now rediscovering Rodinal 1+25.
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
Why not use the small packs? D-76 or ID-11, 1 liter:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/251843-REG/Kodak_8275497_D_76_Developer_Powder_for.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/213174-REG/Ilford_1960457_ID_11_Film_Developer.html
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
The camera store where I live only sells the gallon size, plus the gallon is only $6 compared to $4 for 1/4 as much developer. I use mine so fast that the gallon works great.
sparrow6224
Well-known
Chris Crawford: I notice you shoot your Tri-X (or the example you posted, anyway) at EI 320. Do you then develop at the recommended time/temp for 400 or give it some extra? Since it's not even half a stop difference I'm guessing you can process it at normal time/temp. The pictures look great.
In answer to the OP: I just started myself, about six months ago. I experimented a little w/ Diafine and Rodinal but I don't love the excess grain. Tri-X has a grain that doesn't need any enhancements IMO. The two I've found that I love are Xtol -- which you can use very well for both thin and thicker emulsion films, ie TMax being an example of the first and Tri-X the second, and if you keep your time/temp and agitation fairly consistent the outcomes are super reliable. With Xtol it comes in poder and makes even more than a gallon: 5 liters. I use a big cheap plastic round tank with a coffee-urn type spout at the bottom and a plastic lid that floats on the liquid keeping the air off it even as it descends in the tank. Kodak gives Xtol 2 months shelf life and six months if airtight. I split the difference and tossed my first load at 4 months since I have the floating lid.
The second developer I love is Divided D-76. Doesn't work the same as regular. You have a solution A and a solution B: you give Tri-X at 400-800 about five minutes in A and then 5 in B. All the developing happens during the B cycle, using up the chemicals that have soaked onto the neg in the A cycle. There are detailed explanations online. Indeed, if you search for Tom A's name (see his post above) and Divided D-76 you'll find his recipe and recommendations -- which are what I use. You use the A solution forever practically, just pour it back after five minutes. The B solution,I kid you not, is made with Borax. Ie, 20 Mule Team laundry treatment. For your first time, the whole premeasured set of chemicals for A and B are available from Photographers' Formulary. Go to their site. The results are outstanding; tempoerature hardly matters; it's impossible to f**k it up. Almost. I managed a few times when I was starting but that's because I'm particularly dumb. You don't use Stop bath with divided developers (Diafine, by the way, is also a divided developer, but divided D76 is not so harsh). Just rinse and add fixer. (Or do you rinse? I can't remember. See? It's amazing I've managed to get any good pictures at all....)
In answer to the OP: I just started myself, about six months ago. I experimented a little w/ Diafine and Rodinal but I don't love the excess grain. Tri-X has a grain that doesn't need any enhancements IMO. The two I've found that I love are Xtol -- which you can use very well for both thin and thicker emulsion films, ie TMax being an example of the first and Tri-X the second, and if you keep your time/temp and agitation fairly consistent the outcomes are super reliable. With Xtol it comes in poder and makes even more than a gallon: 5 liters. I use a big cheap plastic round tank with a coffee-urn type spout at the bottom and a plastic lid that floats on the liquid keeping the air off it even as it descends in the tank. Kodak gives Xtol 2 months shelf life and six months if airtight. I split the difference and tossed my first load at 4 months since I have the floating lid.
The second developer I love is Divided D-76. Doesn't work the same as regular. You have a solution A and a solution B: you give Tri-X at 400-800 about five minutes in A and then 5 in B. All the developing happens during the B cycle, using up the chemicals that have soaked onto the neg in the A cycle. There are detailed explanations online. Indeed, if you search for Tom A's name (see his post above) and Divided D-76 you'll find his recipe and recommendations -- which are what I use. You use the A solution forever practically, just pour it back after five minutes. The B solution,I kid you not, is made with Borax. Ie, 20 Mule Team laundry treatment. For your first time, the whole premeasured set of chemicals for A and B are available from Photographers' Formulary. Go to their site. The results are outstanding; tempoerature hardly matters; it's impossible to f**k it up. Almost. I managed a few times when I was starting but that's because I'm particularly dumb. You don't use Stop bath with divided developers (Diafine, by the way, is also a divided developer, but divided D76 is not so harsh). Just rinse and add fixer. (Or do you rinse? I can't remember. See? It's amazing I've managed to get any good pictures at all....)
mfogiel
Veteran
I have tried various developers with Tri X.
The developers that give you the best speed: Acufine (800) and Diafine (1000), but Acufine has a somewhat large and not very sharp grain, while Diafine has mushy grain and above all I have never managed to get rid of streaking, so I only use it if nothing else would work.
The developers that give you box speed are Tmax, Xtol and DD X - of the three I like DDX most - Tmax will give you bigger grain, but good acutance, Xtol will give you finer grain and less acutance, while DDX will give you a good compromise of the two, plus, unlike Xtol, it will also give acceptable tonality.
The developers that sacrifice a little speed (250-320) are D76 and HC 110 - of the two D76 in my book is much better sharpness wise and grain wise, but they both deliver best tonality with this film.
The developers that sacrifice more speed (200-250) are Rodinal and Prescysol EF( a pyro type developer) or Pyrocat HD. They will give you exceptional acutance and good tonality, but the tonality is not "neutral" - Rodinal has all its own flavour, whle Prescysol EF strongly compensates, so it compresses some values.
I would recommend d 76 1+1 or DD X 1+9 - 10 mins at 20 deg C is a good starting point for both.
The developers that give you the best speed: Acufine (800) and Diafine (1000), but Acufine has a somewhat large and not very sharp grain, while Diafine has mushy grain and above all I have never managed to get rid of streaking, so I only use it if nothing else would work.
The developers that give you box speed are Tmax, Xtol and DD X - of the three I like DDX most - Tmax will give you bigger grain, but good acutance, Xtol will give you finer grain and less acutance, while DDX will give you a good compromise of the two, plus, unlike Xtol, it will also give acceptable tonality.
The developers that sacrifice a little speed (250-320) are D76 and HC 110 - of the two D76 in my book is much better sharpness wise and grain wise, but they both deliver best tonality with this film.
The developers that sacrifice more speed (200-250) are Rodinal and Prescysol EF( a pyro type developer) or Pyrocat HD. They will give you exceptional acutance and good tonality, but the tonality is not "neutral" - Rodinal has all its own flavour, whle Prescysol EF strongly compensates, so it compresses some values.
I would recommend d 76 1+1 or DD X 1+9 - 10 mins at 20 deg C is a good starting point for both.
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Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
I've found that the normal time Kodak recommends for 400 gives normal contrast and proper exposure when exposed at 320, which is just 1/3 stop lower than 400. You wouldn't want to give more development, lower EI usually means shorter time in the developer. But I give the normal time. For my meters, which all match, 320 gives the best exposure. Yours might give 400 or 320 or something else, best to test for yourself.
Kodak's time for Tri-X at 400 is 9.75 minutes at 68F for D-76 1+1. I agitate first 30 seconds then 2 inversions of the tank every 30 seconds.
D-76 + TX = Happy
Haigh
Gary Haigh
Tri_x looks good in D76 as you can see from the shots posted but I use Rodinal 1:50 but that is because I have a condenser enlarger and also the light here in South Australia is contrasty.