Brian Legge
Veteran
I have a few lenses which could use some basic cleaning. I've done some research and come across a bunch of names but its challenging to know what information is still good, given how rapidly things all changes.
Lens in question:
- Canon 50mm 1.8, stiff aperture (to the point where i worry about tearing)
- Elmar 50mm 3.5, debris between the elements.
- Summaron 35mm 3.5, debris between the elements, stiff focus.
I'm comfortable working on some lenses - I've done a lot of work with FSU and Nikon SLR lenses - but these ones seem a bit more difficult to work with. None of these are premium lenses so its hard to stomach spending $120+ each (the best of first round of prices I found) on what seems like it ought to be relatively basic service.
At the same time, the glass is in good condition so they seem worth some work.
Any recommendations on people who can perform basic work at a decent price?
Lens in question:
- Canon 50mm 1.8, stiff aperture (to the point where i worry about tearing)
- Elmar 50mm 3.5, debris between the elements.
- Summaron 35mm 3.5, debris between the elements, stiff focus.
I'm comfortable working on some lenses - I've done a lot of work with FSU and Nikon SLR lenses - but these ones seem a bit more difficult to work with. None of these are premium lenses so its hard to stomach spending $120+ each (the best of first round of prices I found) on what seems like it ought to be relatively basic service.
At the same time, the glass is in good condition so they seem worth some work.
Any recommendations on people who can perform basic work at a decent price?
hans voralberg
Veteran
The Elmar 50/3.5 is very easy to clean. Just use a lens spanner, preferably needle nose tyle to remove the inner ring on the front element, and the ring inside the lens tube looking from the back and you have access to all elements.
jn053
Member
Elmars are not always easy to clean. 'Nuff said.
je2a3
je
Just cleaned the haze out of my Canon 50/1.8 - http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60131 - just follow ferider's instructions.
As soon as you unscrew the brass ring at the rear the rear element comes out and you'll see the aperture mechanism. With your FSU experience I'm sure you can figure out how to CLA.
Good luck!
As soon as you unscrew the brass ring at the rear the rear element comes out and you'll see the aperture mechanism. With your FSU experience I'm sure you can figure out how to CLA.
Good luck!
rogerzilla
Well-known
Aren't you supposed to recollimate a lens after cleaning it?
Bingley
Veteran
Recognizing my own incompetence in such matters, I sent my Canon 50/1.8 to Sherry Krauter to be cleaned and lubed, and she did a great job. Completely satisfied.
John Shriver
Well-known
Presuming the Summaron is coated, it's a "must send out". Lenses with the Leica soft coatings are very difficult to clean without removing the all-important coating. Has to be done chemically. Moreover, small highly curved elements, could be hard to keep them properly centered.
Elements can be very snug in an Elmar 50/3.5. If it's coated, don't even think about D.I.Y.
The Canon 50/1.8 is indeed easy to work on. Plus, it's hard coated, hard to damage the coating. Be sure to make those scribe marks Ferider mentions, so that the lens will be the same focal length when you're done. (Otherwise recollimation becomes an issue.)
Elements can be very snug in an Elmar 50/3.5. If it's coated, don't even think about D.I.Y.
The Canon 50/1.8 is indeed easy to work on. Plus, it's hard coated, hard to damage the coating. Be sure to make those scribe marks Ferider mentions, so that the lens will be the same focal length when you're done. (Otherwise recollimation becomes an issue.)
rogerzilla
Well-known
If the lens has had fungus at any point, the coatings may be terminally damaged. It takes an expert repairer to spot the difference between coating deterioration and normal evaporated-lubricant haze.
With damaged coatings the lens can still be sharp, but it will flare all too easily in contrasty lighting.
With damaged coatings the lens can still be sharp, but it will flare all too easily in contrasty lighting.