niels christopher
Established
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
The Kobalux 21mm f/2.8 has a similar look but not quite what the SA does. A bit more distortion too.
Any of the old non-retrofocal SLR lenses which required mirror lockup will get you a look close to what the SA does but none of them does it as well...
Phil Forrest
Any of the old non-retrofocal SLR lenses which required mirror lockup will get you a look close to what the SA does but none of them does it as well...
Phil Forrest
T
tedwhite
Guest
The 20/4 Super Takumar has way too much distortion.
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
Hi Buzzardkid,
I havent had any of those but CV 21mm, decent alternative but no character. You may wanna try Russar-20mm. Canons must have a vintage look too. I believe it is hard to get the leica-look from super-angulon from any other lens...I dream for that lens too.
I must say I had a elmarit-m 21mm f2.8 and did not like it at all either...
I havent had any of those but CV 21mm, decent alternative but no character. You may wanna try Russar-20mm. Canons must have a vintage look too. I believe it is hard to get the leica-look from super-angulon from any other lens...I dream for that lens too.
I must say I had a elmarit-m 21mm f2.8 and did not like it at all either...
kermaier
Well-known
The Canon 25/3.5 LTM is a great lens. It will give you a nice vintage look, but it doesn't approach the resolution on center of the 21/3.4 S.A. and the 4mm difference in focal length is more significant than it sounds in terms of the wide-angle look.
I wonder if the Canon 19/3.5 LTM would work for you? But, then again, that's much harder to find, and probably more expensive than an S.A.
::Ari
I wonder if the Canon 19/3.5 LTM would work for you? But, then again, that's much harder to find, and probably more expensive than an S.A.
::Ari
BTMarcais
Well-known
I was thinking about the Canon 19mm lens too-
The FL version for the canon SLR's should give the same look, and be at least somewhat easier to find, and definitely less expensive than the LTM version. Canon even made FL to LTM adapters themselves for a while.
Doesn't Raid use one of these lenses?
-Brian
(and johan- i DID sell off some gear to get my SA. and even though I miss my nikon S2 sometimes (part of what I sold), I don't regret it for a minute, I really do love the 21SA.)
The FL version for the canon SLR's should give the same look, and be at least somewhat easier to find, and definitely less expensive than the LTM version. Canon even made FL to LTM adapters themselves for a while.
Doesn't Raid use one of these lenses?
-Brian
(and johan- i DID sell off some gear to get my SA. and even though I miss my nikon S2 sometimes (part of what I sold), I don't regret it for a minute, I really do love the 21SA.)
Voe
Member
Has anyone tried the SA 3.4 on Leica M9 camera? What is your opinion?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
you can ignore or disregard a lot of what you read on the internet.
The SA works fantastic with almost no post processing on the M9 if you work in black & white. It's just like any other lens but the falloff is beautiful. Either code it as a 21mm Elmarit or don't code it at all. You'll have to dial in -2 2/3 exposure compensation to have the meter read close.
If you do color work then you'll just have to download cornerfix and create a profile and send your images through that program before going on to your next step in processing. The extra step is not much trouble anyways.
I'm a Linux user so cornerfix hasn't been ported over here yet and what I did was to create two profiles of the lens against a white backdrop and import them into GIMP after RAW conversion. One at close focus, one at infinity. Since the rear element is significantly closer at infinity, the red edge is much more pronounced at far distances.
-Anyways, once you have two well-lit red edge raw files, import them into your computer, open them in photoshop or GIMP or whatever.
-Save the file as a TIFF or if you use Photoshop, maybe a PSD.
-Invert the colors so you have a dark green edged and black image.
-Create a duplicate sized file with a transparent backdrop.
-Copy your SA image into the transparent background as a layer.
-Select the erase tool and create a new brush.
. -Round
. -Diameter almost as much as the short axis of the image
. -Edge hardness at 66-75%, opacity 100% (you want it to fade out nicely)
-Place the eraser in the center and erase the majority of the black. You may need to move it around a bit but "push" the boundaries of the green/blue tint some to make sure you get rid of the black.
-Save again as a file you'll come to often to use as a plugin.
-Overlay the new file on your color SA images and adjust the opacity in color rendering mode to get the edge color just right. The red/magenta edges + the cyan/green/blues you have should replicate the light falloff of the lens by creating a neutral gray.
-Make sure to know which side is which because the edges are all actually subtly different colors so if you turn your camera vertical and load your SA color vignetting layer the other way, you'll get some weird edges that aren't quite corrected.
-Load the close profile for close images and the far one for distant images, of course. The vignetting is very different when up in the very close-focus range. It's almost negligible but still there.
The problem with some plugins like cornerfix or some of the vignetting tools in PS is that they lighten the edges too much which, I personally don't want. I know most folks love all the ways this lens renders, not just its center sharpness and lack of distortion.
It's an amazing piece of glass. One of my very favorite ever.
Phil Forrest
The SA works fantastic with almost no post processing on the M9 if you work in black & white. It's just like any other lens but the falloff is beautiful. Either code it as a 21mm Elmarit or don't code it at all. You'll have to dial in -2 2/3 exposure compensation to have the meter read close.
If you do color work then you'll just have to download cornerfix and create a profile and send your images through that program before going on to your next step in processing. The extra step is not much trouble anyways.
I'm a Linux user so cornerfix hasn't been ported over here yet and what I did was to create two profiles of the lens against a white backdrop and import them into GIMP after RAW conversion. One at close focus, one at infinity. Since the rear element is significantly closer at infinity, the red edge is much more pronounced at far distances.
-Anyways, once you have two well-lit red edge raw files, import them into your computer, open them in photoshop or GIMP or whatever.
-Save the file as a TIFF or if you use Photoshop, maybe a PSD.
-Invert the colors so you have a dark green edged and black image.
-Create a duplicate sized file with a transparent backdrop.
-Copy your SA image into the transparent background as a layer.
-Select the erase tool and create a new brush.
. -Round
. -Diameter almost as much as the short axis of the image
. -Edge hardness at 66-75%, opacity 100% (you want it to fade out nicely)
-Place the eraser in the center and erase the majority of the black. You may need to move it around a bit but "push" the boundaries of the green/blue tint some to make sure you get rid of the black.
-Save again as a file you'll come to often to use as a plugin.
-Overlay the new file on your color SA images and adjust the opacity in color rendering mode to get the edge color just right. The red/magenta edges + the cyan/green/blues you have should replicate the light falloff of the lens by creating a neutral gray.
-Make sure to know which side is which because the edges are all actually subtly different colors so if you turn your camera vertical and load your SA color vignetting layer the other way, you'll get some weird edges that aren't quite corrected.
-Load the close profile for close images and the far one for distant images, of course. The vignetting is very different when up in the very close-focus range. It's almost negligible but still there.
The problem with some plugins like cornerfix or some of the vignetting tools in PS is that they lighten the edges too much which, I personally don't want. I know most folks love all the ways this lens renders, not just its center sharpness and lack of distortion.
It's an amazing piece of glass. One of my very favorite ever.
Phil Forrest
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bigeye
Well-known
I agree about web knowledge, Phil. Why use a couple of sentences when you can draft an entire incoherent page.
.
.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Phil_F_NM
Camera hacker
To Voe, don't be discouraged by folks online saying that the 21 SA can't be used on the M9 because the camera is defective. It just takes time to post process. At least a few sentences worth but probably more.
Phil Forrest
Phil Forrest
kdellaquila
Member
matt335
Well-known
the first photo really stood out for me personally. i love the motion, blur and lone still figure. and the light is magic !
leobloom
Member
I own M9 with SA 3.4. I can confirm there is color vignetting which will require pp to correct. The suggested program 'cornerfix' will do the trick, as will Lightroom. However, whilst pp can resolve the vignetting, this may be tedious if you have high volume of pictures.
For alternative 21mm with M9, you may either consider the (a) Leica 21mms, or (b) for lesser cost, the Zeiss 21mm Biogon which I can also confirm has no vignetting on M9.
For M9, generally be careful about vignetting when you select a wide angle. Its got something to do with the size of M9 digital sensor and how it is positioned.
SA 3.4 is great on film, as everybody can plainly see on this thread.
For alternative 21mm with M9, you may either consider the (a) Leica 21mms, or (b) for lesser cost, the Zeiss 21mm Biogon which I can also confirm has no vignetting on M9.
For M9, generally be careful about vignetting when you select a wide angle. Its got something to do with the size of M9 digital sensor and how it is positioned.
SA 3.4 is great on film, as everybody can plainly see on this thread.
bigeye
Well-known
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I'll never own a super angulon because I'm not really a wide shooter but I have to say there are some absolutely amazing images in this thread ... that's some lens!
Well worth dropping in!
Well worth dropping in!
maddoc
... likes film again.
helen.HH
To Light & Love ...
Great Retro Feel with the SA , Buzzardkid
CONGRATS !!
CONGRATS !!
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bertterp
Leica M8 & Fuji X-Pro1
Nice pictures so far Johan
Nice pictures so far Johan
Hi Johan
I hope you enjoy jour Super Angulon, I wish you good luck by selling the other Leica lenses, many thanks for recommanding this Forum.
It was nice meeting you and your family, maybe Il see you again.
Best Regards
Bert Terporten
Nice pictures so far Johan
Hi Johan
I hope you enjoy jour Super Angulon, I wish you good luck by selling the other Leica lenses, many thanks for recommanding this Forum.
It was nice meeting you and your family, maybe Il see you again.
Best Regards
Bert Terporten
ornate_wrasse
Moderator
Super Angulon Image at the Tulip Farm
Super Angulon Image at the Tulip Farm
Here's my latest Super Angulon image. It was taken at the Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm with the M3 and Velvia 50:
Ellen
Super Angulon Image at the Tulip Farm
Here's my latest Super Angulon image. It was taken at the Wooden Shoe Tulip Farm with the M3 and Velvia 50:
Ellen
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