David_Manning
Well-known
My last batch of Tri-X had very fine "spider-web" white lines on the negatives, most noticable in regions of solid tone (skies). I think it's from bubbles in the developer at time of development. I guess I foamed the developer during agitation...I don't know.
Anyway, I think I'd like to try constant agitation with a motor base. Anyone have experience with this?
I have a two-reel Universal Paterson tank now. It would be nice to find a used motor base that will just rotate this tank. Again, looking for experience with this setup.
I'm desperately trying to find consistency and repeatability to my developing results, while engineering out all my mistakes. Thanks in advance.
Anyway, I think I'd like to try constant agitation with a motor base. Anyone have experience with this?
I have a two-reel Universal Paterson tank now. It would be nice to find a used motor base that will just rotate this tank. Again, looking for experience with this setup.
I'm desperately trying to find consistency and repeatability to my developing results, while engineering out all my mistakes. Thanks in advance.
sienarot
Well-known
Are you using photo flo or any sort of wetting agent in your developing? It's possible you're not washing your tank and reels thoroughly enough after your developing so that your chemicals sud up the next time you use it.
Also how are you agitating? I do a combination of upside down/right side up and rolling it on its side and haven't had any problems.
Also how are you agitating? I do a combination of upside down/right side up and rolling it on its side and haven't had any problems.
bwcolor
Veteran
Use a motor base if you want, but many people have hand agitated for decades with "Tri-X" and obtained 100% consistent results.
David_Manning
Well-known
Thank you both for your comments.
I have decided to try a motor base for developing. Sorry I didn't really make that clear in my post.
I'm really looking for experience using a motor base and b&w film, hopefully with a Paterson tank, which is what I now have. I may have to get a Jobo tank to use a motor base...I don't know.
Thanks.
----David.
I have decided to try a motor base for developing. Sorry I didn't really make that clear in my post.
I'm really looking for experience using a motor base and b&w film, hopefully with a Paterson tank, which is what I now have. I may have to get a Jobo tank to use a motor base...I don't know.
Thanks.
----David.
sienarot
Well-known
Yup, I do all my developing in Jobo tanks and motor bases.
A good rule of thumb to start with when using constant agitation that the motor base gives is to reduce the developing time by 15% and use a more diluted solution when possible.
A good rule of thumb to start with when using constant agitation that the motor base gives is to reduce the developing time by 15% and use a more diluted solution when possible.
David_Manning
Well-known
Thanks Derrick.
I'm considering a Unicolor base, and I'm wondering if it'll roll a two-roll Paterson tank. I guess I need a width measurement for the Uniroller...any idea?
I'm considering a Unicolor base, and I'm wondering if it'll roll a two-roll Paterson tank. I guess I need a width measurement for the Uniroller...any idea?
bwcolor
Veteran
I've been developing Tri-X, TMY-2, Neopan 400 with a Jobo to good results. Using Tmax Developer and to my surprise, Rodinal 1+50. Can't help you with other systems.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Another satisfied Jobo user. I find that I don't need to reduce times as much as 15%, based on the simple test of what prints well on grades 2 and 3, but that is of course why one develops one's own film: the ability to fine-tune.
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
sienarot
Well-known
The width of the rollers on my Unicolor roller is 6" apart (from outside to outside the wheels). My Beseler rollers are 5" apart.
David_Manning
Well-known
Thanks Derrick. I'll measure my Paterson tank to see if it'll work.
presspass
filmshooter
I have used the Unicolor base with a Jobo four-reel tank and it works just fine. The smaller tank wants to walk off the end of the base. I haven't used regular developers with this system but have had good results with the divided or two-bath version of D-23 which doesn't require close attention to either temperature or time. BTW, I have found most of the published times for this developer to be too short.
Nokton48
Veteran
I've developed hundreds and hundreds of rolls in a long Paterson tank, on the Unicolor Uniroller. It leaked quite a bit, but always worked OK. Sorry it was thirty years ago, but I think it was the eight-reel model. ?
Nowadays I still use the Uniroller, but with the Unicolor Film Drum. I also have the "Big Film Drum", which is double-wide. I remember Jobo used to make a roller, to spin their metal long tanks.
A two reel Paterson tank is way too short to spin on a Uniroller.
Nowadays I still use the Uniroller, but with the Unicolor Film Drum. I also have the "Big Film Drum", which is double-wide. I remember Jobo used to make a roller, to spin their metal long tanks.
A two reel Paterson tank is way too short to spin on a Uniroller.
sienarot
Well-known
Not a problem! Glad I'm able to help!
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The two reel tanks from Paterson dont work on the Uni Color Roller base. Just too short and keeps sliding off. Three reel tanks work - but you have stand there and watch it as it can slide off too. I use 5 reel Paterson tanks and they stay on fine.
I rarely use it for developing though - mainly for fixing (hooked up to a Gralab 300 with the "banshee" wail coming on when the time is up!!!!
I do use the Uni-Roller for split developers like Td 201/D76 Divided and part of the Pyrocat HD process.
Keith in Australia made his own - simply used a piece of PVC pipe, just big enough to hold the tank firmly. If you cut the pipe long enough - it would provide sufficient grip and then you can slide the two reel tank into it.
The Uni Roller is surprisingly durable. After 20 years one of mine collapsed - so I am now trying to figure out how to make my own "improved" version so that I am ready when Uni Roller #2 dies ( #3 is a spare - again, just in case!).
I rarely use it for developing though - mainly for fixing (hooked up to a Gralab 300 with the "banshee" wail coming on when the time is up!!!!
I do use the Uni-Roller for split developers like Td 201/D76 Divided and part of the Pyrocat HD process.
Keith in Australia made his own - simply used a piece of PVC pipe, just big enough to hold the tank firmly. If you cut the pipe long enough - it would provide sufficient grip and then you can slide the two reel tank into it.
The Uni Roller is surprisingly durable. After 20 years one of mine collapsed - so I am now trying to figure out how to make my own "improved" version so that I am ready when Uni Roller #2 dies ( #3 is a spare - again, just in case!).