kosta_g
Well-known
Hi people,
My summicron rigid was sent in for a repair - front element seemed scratched (by markings/wear as if it was etched over time...don't know the lingo well enough to explain it, but it affected the pictures.)
so i was told the front element would be replaced. sadly, the front elements don't exist as a spare anymore from leica germany.
What do i do? I'm stuck on this. It seems only the front element is the problem... unless someone has one with a dodgy rear element and could frankenstein them, i'm not going to use it.
Would love some advice from those who may have been in this position before.
Thank you in advance,
Kosta
My summicron rigid was sent in for a repair - front element seemed scratched (by markings/wear as if it was etched over time...don't know the lingo well enough to explain it, but it affected the pictures.)
so i was told the front element would be replaced. sadly, the front elements don't exist as a spare anymore from leica germany.
What do i do? I'm stuck on this. It seems only the front element is the problem... unless someone has one with a dodgy rear element and could frankenstein them, i'm not going to use it.
Would love some advice from those who may have been in this position before.
Thank you in advance,
Kosta
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
Are you sure a damaged front element would affect the picture?
I've seen some horrendous front element damage that had virtually no effect on picture quality.
The rear element is a different story.
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If you just need that one element I'm sure Sherry Krauter would have a spare in her workshop.
http://www.sherrykrauter.com/
I've seen some horrendous front element damage that had virtually no effect on picture quality.
The rear element is a different story.
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If you just need that one element I'm sure Sherry Krauter would have a spare in her workshop.
http://www.sherrykrauter.com/
mfogiel
Veteran
You can always keep it as a soft focus portrait lens.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
rogerzilla
Well-known
Polishing and recoating can affect optical performance (compared with the new specification) but if the lens is properly recollimated this should be minimal.
The traditional treatment for a single scratch to the front element is to fill it with black ink so it can't cause flare, and then forget about it.
The traditional treatment for a single scratch to the front element is to fill it with black ink so it can't cause flare, and then forget about it.
kosta_g
Well-known
thanks guys
i'm not sure the front element would affect the picture quality but I imagine it does have a direct influence if it is in a bad enough state.
at worst it could be a bit hazy inside (i'm told) but the front element looks pretty average. I will have it looked at buy someone else once I get it back from Cameraclinic.
appreciate the assistance.
i'm not sure the front element would affect the picture quality but I imagine it does have a direct influence if it is in a bad enough state.
at worst it could be a bit hazy inside (i'm told) but the front element looks pretty average. I will have it looked at buy someone else once I get it back from Cameraclinic.
appreciate the assistance.
NLewis
Established
It depends on whether the coating is scratched or the glass itself.
If the coating is scratched, then a polish and recoat from Focal Point can be very effective. The old coating is removed but the underlying glass is unchanged. If the glass underneath is scratched, then there is no easy solution, as that would involve regrinding the glass surface. Talk to Focal Point, they can give you some of the details. Or, send it to Gus Lazzari, he did my DR summicron with polish/recoat at Focal Point, plus the usual internal cleaning.
If the coating is scratched, then a polish and recoat from Focal Point can be very effective. The old coating is removed but the underlying glass is unchanged. If the glass underneath is scratched, then there is no easy solution, as that would involve regrinding the glass surface. Talk to Focal Point, they can give you some of the details. Or, send it to Gus Lazzari, he did my DR summicron with polish/recoat at Focal Point, plus the usual internal cleaning.
Ronald M
Veteran
At that time, the optical cells were custom fitted to focus mounts. Changing out the front to a random focal length one may or may not work, and then there is possible focusing problem.
You will notice the last digits of your serial are etched into the black ring inside the lens mount. That is to keep them together.
I am not saying it can not be fixed, but it is more work than you imply.
Practice used to be if an item was sent to Leitz/Leica and it was declared uprepairable, you got a pretty good discount on new replacement. I have no idea if that is still in effect. Last person I know to took advantage was maybe 10 years back.
You will notice the last digits of your serial are etched into the black ring inside the lens mount. That is to keep them together.
I am not saying it can not be fixed, but it is more work than you imply.
Practice used to be if an item was sent to Leitz/Leica and it was declared uprepairable, you got a pretty good discount on new replacement. I have no idea if that is still in effect. Last person I know to took advantage was maybe 10 years back.
I had Focalpoint polish and recoat an early collapsible Summicron with Thorium glass. Looks like new, was opaque and unusable before.
I have replaced the front element on one Rigid Summicron, and it was not easy. The "fit and Finish" approach was taken to the point that the optical fixture is matched to the glass piece-by-piece. The optical fixture had to be bored out to fit a different from element, lens type was the same series.
I have replaced the front element on one Rigid Summicron, and it was not easy. The "fit and Finish" approach was taken to the point that the optical fixture is matched to the glass piece-by-piece. The optical fixture had to be bored out to fit a different from element, lens type was the same series.
kosta_g
Well-known
yeouch... sounds like a tricky job. must've cost leica a fortune to produce things in such a manner.... i guess lean manufacturing hadn't really taken place yet!
thanks for the tips. If i can pick it up before I head o/s I might take it with me and send it to focal point to get it checked out. or even just email mr. Lazzari some pictures and info.
Thanks again
thanks for the tips. If i can pick it up before I head o/s I might take it with me and send it to focal point to get it checked out. or even just email mr. Lazzari some pictures and info.
Thanks again
Rayt
Nonplayer Character
I bought a Rigid from B&H last month for around $500. It was in beautiful condition but with a few usual front element scratches. After a $60 CLA to clear out the haze and lube the helicoil it performs marvelously. In your place I would sell it as is for parts and buy another one. They are not particularly rare. A DR is also an option.
rod64
Established
Had my bargain Rigid recoated and cleaned by John at Focalpoint. Cost me $250 to have the work done. It is now perfect and it cost less than buying a mint one. John is top-notch.
raid
Dad Photographer
I sent my 35mm Summicron to DAG last week to clean it up. A Summicron is worth it.
BobYIL
Well-known
You can not notice the influence of scratches on the front element if they are tiny, not many and not deep. Perhaps what you see are markings on the coating only. The same defects on the rear element however is much worse..
Just send your lens for CLA so they can get rid of the haze (if you were told correctly). If it's "a bit hazy" but not to be noticed when you look into it under a desk light then don't mind it, use it as it is.. Flashlights almost always show "something" with lenses over 30 years old.