SixFlags
Member
After sawing this thread on flickr I want to try out a 1:100 Rodinal stand development of pushed Tri-X too.
Though in the first post he wrote that he used a 500ml tank.
With a 300ml tank though, there would be only 3ml of Rodinal in that dilution. I've been wondering if the developer will exhaust before the developing time is over.
Though in the first post he wrote that he used a 500ml tank.
With a 300ml tank though, there would be only 3ml of Rodinal in that dilution. I've been wondering if the developer will exhaust before the developing time is over.
Rhodes
Time Lord
I normally use 300ml solution in my thanks for one hour stand development with rodinal 1:100. Didn't get any bad results ever.
SixFlags
Member
Now thats awesome! Thank you! I can't wait to get started
DNG
Film Friendly
Not to highjack the thread... But I have Q or 2 about Stand Development...
1) Why?
2) How do I figure out the time?
I shoot Fuji Neopan 400 at 320, I use Rodinal 1:50 now. (6ml for 300ml)
1) Why?
2) How do I figure out the time?
I shoot Fuji Neopan 400 at 320, I use Rodinal 1:50 now. (6ml for 300ml)
atlcruiser
Part Yeti
DNG
Film Friendly
Is 1 hour just a generic time.. Temp doesn't matter?
I'll try it on my next roll....
Is there a certain type of lighting or subject matter it works better with?
Or, it works fine with all types of lighting/subject?
I'll try it on my next roll....
Is there a certain type of lighting or subject matter it works better with?
Or, it works fine with all types of lighting/subject?
ferider
Veteran
Yes, it will. Stand-development is based on developer exhaustion. Concentration, i.e. 1:100 or whatever doesn't matter. 2h or 4h doesn't matter either. For nominal film speed, and 35mm, use 3ml per roll. 3ml just happens to be 1:100 for the typical 300ml water a development tank takes per roll.
You can also exhaust with what's called "semi-stand". These days I use 30', with 1 inversion every 3 minutes. Gives me more even results, with the benefit on grain that stand provides.
Roland.
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DNG
Film Friendly
WOW, My 1st roll of "Stand" development looks VERY GOOD!
I took a sample of photos where some where mostly highlight tones, some where mainly darker tones. I metered as usual, and it likes the highlights are not blown, and the darker tones are just WOW...
Can't wait to scan a few !!
I took a sample of photos where some where mostly highlight tones, some where mainly darker tones. I metered as usual, and it likes the highlights are not blown, and the darker tones are just WOW...
Can't wait to scan a few !!
DNG
Film Friendly
Does "Stand Developing" work with other developers?
Which ones?
I have been asked this Q on anther forum I help Moderate.
Which ones?
I have been asked this Q on anther forum I help Moderate.
Moriturii
Well-known
DNG, how did you meter a typical sunny scene? I've read that exposing for highlights is ideal, but I did a few shots with a typical 1 stop over expose during a sunny 16 scene and those negatives came out briliant! The one where I exposed for the highlights were a bit flat for me. Perhaps I just metered wrong or something. How about you? Cheers!
DNG
Film Friendly
I just metered as normal... centered what I wanted right, and locked it, and recomposed... Worked most of the time... Since the Contax G1 does not have a spot meter, I lower my ISO to overexpose, 400 @ 320 is OK, but, I think 250 will be better for using Rodinal 1:100 Stand.. For Rodinal 1:50, regular develop workflow, I can use 320 or 400 with good highlight results. But, Fuji Neopan 400 is more a 320/250 with Rodinal anyway, I am finding out, with around 15% less time also.... I guess if I want to push FN400 to 800/1600 I'll have push to 640/1250 instead with 15% less time.
EDIT:
I don't mind a little flat, I scan, so that can be fixed during my scan or in post.
EDIT:
I don't mind a little flat, I scan, so that can be fixed during my scan or in post.
ChrisN
Striving
Mablo
Well-known
DNG
Film Friendly
DNG
Film Friendly
Tim Gray
Well-known
I tried it once with XTOL 1:3. Stand for 1 hour. I definitely got images. This was with TMZ, and I never messed around with it again to figure out what I should rate the film at, but it was somewhere around 3200. It scanned alright, better than the shot at 3200 but developed normally at 3200. However, I have no idea how it would wet print. I've been meaning to return to these tests but haven't had the time to do the darkroom half of it, which is important to me.
charjohncarter
Veteran
You are mostly doing stand with scenes of many different/many Zones: E.I. 8-10 Zones. That is why you are suppressing the highlights. Pushing isn't one of the reasons for stand, but people do it for everything now.
Also, Ansel Adams did a variation of stand using HC-110 (1:120). I have done it many times and it is great with TriX and probably any old emulsion. Usually, people on the Internet have said that the Tmax and Delta, etc. emulsions don't work well with stand, but I have not had a problem.
Personally, I like HC-110 better than Rodinal because of the fog and streaking tendency. But I have had good results sometimes with Rodinal:
DNG
Film Friendly
You are mostly doing stand with scenes of many different/many Zones: E.I. 8-10 Zones. That is why you are suppressing the highlights. Pushing isn't one of the reasons for stand, but people do it for everything now.
Also, Ansel Adams did a variation of stand using HC-110 (1:120). I have done it many times and it is great with TriX and probably any old emulsion. Usually, people on the Internet have said that the Tmax and Delta, etc. emulsions don't work well with stand, but I have not had a problem.
Personally, I like HC-110 better than Rodinal because of the fog and streaking tendency. But I have had good results sometimes with Rodinal:
My second roll is in the soup now, I think with Fuji Neopan 400 at 250 will work for me. I understand Pushing is out, but, Pulling seams to work, and keeps the highlights better. I am trying 1 agitation at the 30m mark for 30s, and see how goes.
I like the old fashioned films over the T/tech films, Yes, a bit more grain, but very pleasant tonal scale.
Beautiful photo, and rich highlights
analoged
Well-known
You are mostly doing stand with scenes of many different/many Zones: E.I. 8-10 Zones. That is why you are suppressing the highlights. Pushing isn't one of the reasons for stand, but people do it for everything now.
Also, Ansel Adams did a variation of stand using HC-110 (1:120). I have done it many times and it is great with TriX and probably any old emulsion. Usually, people on the Internet have said that the Tmax and Delta, etc. emulsions don't work well with stand, but I have not had a problem.
Personally, I like HC-110 better than Rodinal because of the fog and streaking tendency. But I have had good results sometimes with Rodinal:
Was this done in HC 110? What ratio, what film, how long? Cheers!
btgc
Veteran
I've seen people doing it with LC29 which is what I'm using. Stand is on my shortlist.