rayfoxlee
Raymondo
Can a forum member please tell me how to process this chemistry in Patterson tanks? Apparently it is intended for rotary processors - which I don't have. It is the agitation and temperature that I need to get right. I used to use Photocolor 2 and that needed 4 minutes in the developer for chromogenic and 3.25 mins for colour neg at 100F, with 20 seconds continuous agitation initially, followed by 2 inversions every 30 seconds.
What are your experiences?
Thanks for any advice!
Ray
What are your experiences?
Thanks for any advice!
Ray
Borghesia
Well-known
I use C41 developer (and Tetenal) with a Jobo TBE2 tempering bath. My Paterson fits in the hole in the middle of the TBE2. I invert every 15 sec. with the twiddle stick.
Since the TBE keeps the temperature precisely at 38 degrees C. I never had any problem and the results are fine.
There was a time that my former TBE warming system broke, I then used the TBE as a holder for the developer and blix, and poured in water at the correct temperature. This worked also, but is a bit inconvenient.
I do not think Tetenal C41 is for rotary development only, it works absolutely fine with a twiddle stick.
Since the TBE keeps the temperature precisely at 38 degrees C. I never had any problem and the results are fine.
There was a time that my former TBE warming system broke, I then used the TBE as a holder for the developer and blix, and poured in water at the correct temperature. This worked also, but is a bit inconvenient.
I do not think Tetenal C41 is for rotary development only, it works absolutely fine with a twiddle stick.
randomm
Well-known
Yeah, I've had no problems. On my second kit at the moment. I don't use the stick but invert the tank instead every 30 seconds. I don't have a bath either, but keep the tank under running water that is approx 38-39 for the 3:15-3:30 that the developer requires. The other baths are not as fussy about the temperature.
... and now I beat myself about the running water as I'm writing this from Nairobi, north of the country being in serious trouble due to lack of water. I know I can't move the water from Helsinki to here, but nevertheless I promise to be better with wasting water in the future!
... and now I beat myself about the running water as I'm writing this from Nairobi, north of the country being in serious trouble due to lack of water. I know I can't move the water from Helsinki to here, but nevertheless I promise to be better with wasting water in the future!
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
here's my tutorial
http://www.jrobertlennon.com/articles/c41homedev/
http://www.jrobertlennon.com/articles/c41homedev/
rayfoxlee
Raymondo
jrobertlennon
Thanks for the video clip - that is very useful. One question - if you leave the stabilzer on and don't rinse, can you still squeegee the film or should it be left to drain down naturally?
Thanks
Ray
Thanks for the video clip - that is very useful. One question - if you leave the stabilzer on and don't rinse, can you still squeegee the film or should it be left to drain down naturally?
Thanks
Ray
squirrel$$$bandit
Veteran
I always squeegeed it...I don't think there's much to the stabilizer, actually--when I was rinsing, everything still came out OK.
Borghesia
Well-known
I think that the stabilizer is ensure the longevity and the negs being archival. Since the stabilizer is in the kit I use it, I wipe the negs dry in the last action as well.