Back to the basics. . .

[jamato8]

So I have had problems with the M9 and focus drift. The adjustment that can be made with an allen wrench on the M9 has been going out about once a week (moving to close focus each time). So I was out shooting after adjusting, again, the focus. This time with my tele 135. The images, for the most part, just didn't have any snap, they weren't sharp. So I examined the focus, again. Right on, with all my lenses.

Now to technique. Somehow, after close observation through the viewfinder, I had reverted to a method of holding the M9 so that when I actuated the shutter, I moved the camera or tilted it down, so slightly, in the front. Magnified with the use of the 135, I realized the problem. User error, user error. . .

Planting the camera firmly in my palm, up against the muscle that is used for the grip of the thumb, stabilizes the camera for me. So every once in a while, or more frequently, I find examining my technique a requirement. We all have methods that get us our results. It is just curious that after so many years of shooting, I still drift and have to correct my course.

 

[Viktor Sebastian]

Leica recommends that you shoot the 135mm at f5.6 and above because the focusing mechanism is not accurate enough for the digital sensor.

From the Leica M9 FAQ

Can I use my 135mm lenses on the LEICA M9?
The LEICA M9 possesses a 135mm bright line frame. 135mm lenses can be used on the M9. Because of the narrow depth of field of this focal length and resulting ultra precise focusing required, we recommend stopping the lens down at least 2 aperture steps. The current LEICA APO- TELYT-M 135mm/f3.4 will not be available in a 6-bit coded version.

 

[Roger Hicks]

And yet, my 135/2.8 works fine at full aperture. So well, in fact, that when I borrowed it to try on the M8, I persuaded the guy who owned it to sell it to me. Luck? Practice? Dunno. And I've never had to adjust the focus on the M9, though I've done it on other Ms occasionally (once or at most twice a decade).

Cheers,

R.

 

[Viktor Sebastian]

And yet, my 135/2.8 works fine at full aperture.

Of course it is possible, but it isn’t recommend so if I was getting off results with a 135mm that isn’t stopped down two stops I wouldn’t pull out an alan key and start messing with the focusing mechanism that has been adjusted to a high level of precision in the leica factory by trained technicians.

 

[jamato8]

No, it is all the lenses that are off. What I am saying is that the focus of the camera drifts. And the calibration of the 135 is exactly on, so much so that I can shoot it wide open and focus on an eye and have that eye in focus. The reason they say to stop down is that most of the 135's need to be calibrated to the camera being used, not to just any camera. I learned how to adjust the focus on my Tele-elmar so it is exact on my M9. But the focus mechanism in my M9 drifts and when I return to the states, it will be off to Leica to be repaired along with a sensor replacement, for the second time.

Adjusting the focus with the allen wrench is easy, at least for me, and again, all my lenses have been adjusted to focus at the same point so if one is off, they are all off.

Leica saying to stop down is taking the lazy way out. Why make the 135 3.4 if it has to be stopped down 2 stops for current cameras? That makes a pretty slow 135. They need to get the focus issues fixed for the longer lenses if they are going to include them as part of the lenses to be used with the M9. The exacting nature of the sensor is part of the problem as you don't have a film emulsion to give latitude, which is what I understand the main problem is. edit: I see that the 3.4 won't be coded.

 

[jamato8]

Leica recommends that you shoot the 135mm at f5.6 and above because the focusing mechanism is not accurate enough for the digital sensor.

From the Leica M9 FAQ

Can I use my 135mm lenses on the LEICA M9?
The LEICA M9 possesses a 135mm bright line frame. 135mm lenses can be used on the M9. Because of the narrow depth of field of this focal length and resulting ultra precise focusing required, we recommend stopping the lens down at least 2 aperture steps. The current LEICA APO- TELYT-M 135mm/f3.4 will not be available in a 6-bit coded version.

I just noticed this. So the 3.4 won't be available in coded? That is an admittance in my opinion of a problem. As mentioned below, I have adjusted my Tele-Elmar myself and it is exactly on all the time, unless the focus of the M9 drifts and when it does, all my lenses are off, not just the 135 f4. So I do not believe the focus is not accurate enough, which is a sad thing to admit on a 7,000 dollars camera but the fact that lens and camera need to be adjusted together.

Anyway, since adjusting my mechanics of holding the M9, I have got it back where it should be and can often hand hold the 135 at 1/60 th and get sharp images. I see a heavy rain shower coming my way here from the east here in Pohnpei.

 

[LCT]

And yet, my 135/2.8 works fine at full aperture. So well, in fact, that when I borrowed it to try on the M8, I persuaded the guy who owned it to sell it to me. Luck? Practice? Dunno...

If it is the Elmarit-M 135/2.8, the goggles of the latter bring a 1.5x magnification providing full focus accuracy on FF Ms. On the M8 it is more tricky but sharp results can be obtained more or less easily. Here on M8.2 at f/2.8 handheld (6 MB file)
http://tinyurl.com/43r7kz6

 

[jamato8]

I purchased a 135 2.8 that was CLA'd a couple of years ago and should have it tomorrow. I am hoping but will not be surprised if the focus isn't on. I know the googles may need adjustment, which isn't hard and if the lens is off, I will figure that out as well but there is no reason it shouldn't and won't work on the M9. I like the shallow depth of field of my 135L at f2 and look forward to exploring the 2.8, though not the bulk or weight but that is the way it goes. I am not crazy about hauling around the 200L f2 but love the results and forget the "lugging around".

On this island the 6mb took a little while do download but very nice. I like the looks of the image and there is no doubt it is in focus. Just curious, what was the ISO and shutter speed?