Leica LTM Three Summitars, which one to keep?

Leica M39 screw mount bodies/lenses

HuubL

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I got another two Summitars with my recently obtained Leica IIIb. That makes three now and I'm wondering which one to keep.

1. 1939, uncoated, matching the 1939 Leica IIIb
2. 1950, coated, circular diaphragm
3. 1951, coated, hexagonal diaphragm

The glass of all three lenses is of similar quality: hardly visible cleaning marks and #1 and #2 are clear as water (in fact they were CLAd by Leica in 2000). #3 was CLAd by me (most internal haze is easily cleaned from Summitars), but has some spots of internal dust.
Chrome of the post-war lenses is still beautiful, #1 has user marks and three little indents drilled in the front-most lens retainer ring, apparently for some kind of filter frame or generic hood.
Mechanically they are all excellent.

Is there any consensus about optical/mechanical quality differences between pre- and post-war lenses, between diaphragm shapes and between coating and non-coating?
 
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I have no clue about the mechanical differences. Just shoot them side by side and keep the one(s) you like best...
 
I really think it depends on what sort of effects you like and what sort of shooting you do. I have found that the early uncoated Summitars are kind of like a more sophisticated version of the Summars (not really surprising) in look somewhere between the Summar and the later Summicron I suppose. Many people like this look which is very traditional. But of course they are lower contrast and more flare prone than the later coated post war versions. Of the two later ones I am fascinated by the complex hexagonal diaphragm one but really my favourite is the round iris version which produces very nice out of focus highlights. So if forced to choose that would be my personal favourite and choice. All are well made lenses both optically and mechanically.
 
One would assume that #2 has the best combination of features on paper i.e. coated lens and circular aperture opening, but I have no frame of reference if this makes any difference in practice.

I'll agree with Peter that it would mostly come down to personal taste
 
I'd say keep all three. If you *must* get rid of two, then the decision has to be a personal one. If you can't decide because you don't prefer one over another, then I suggest a run of eenie meenie miney mo.
 
Hi,

Why not keep no 1 as it matches the camera and then look for a 1950, '51 or '52 body for the better of the other two?

Regards, David
 
Thanks for the suggestion David :) In fact, I already have a very nice 1952 IIIf RD and the 1951 Summitar is sort of permanently mounted on it. Problem is, I also have a very nice Summarit, and an Elmar red scale. I agree, you can't have enough 50's for sure, but three Summitars is a bit overkill, I feel.
 
Hi Huub

What a nice "problem" :D

I can't really advise (so I guess you can stop reading here haha) but just wanted to say I have a 1950 Summitar (coated I believe) with the circular aperture and like it a lot.

Fweiw though if I were in your situation and had to get rid of one I would keep the oldest and the 1950.

Btw - how do you clean off internal haze from a Summitar? I think mine has a bit of it actually.

cheerio
philip
 
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I'd keep the best of the coated lenses. Uncoated lenses from my experience have their limitations for serious use, although they can be fun to experiment with sometimes.
 
Btw - how do you clean off internal haze from a Summitar? I think mine has a bit of it actually.

Thanks for your input Philipus. I'm sure this info can be found here somewhere, but I can't recall where. Anyhow, it amounts to the following.
Most of the haze in a Summitar usually sits on the glass surfaces of the lens elements immediately in front of and behind the diaphragm blades. With the Summitar you can remove the front lens cell by firmly holding the knurled ring onto which the hood is clamped) and unscrewing it from the rest of the body of the lens in a counterclockwise rotation. The lens comes apart immediately in front of the diaphragm scale. You need a lot of force and a rubber band wrapped around this front ring for grip may help. This releases the front cell and the inside surface can now be cleaned. Use a good lens cleaning fluid and lots of Q-tips. Take extreme care not to scratch the soft coating!!!
With the diaphragm fully open you can do the same with the glass surface in front of the diaphragm. Take extreme care with the coating AND with the diaphragm blades!!!

Don't get mad at me when you damage the coatings or the blades and don't say I didn't warn you!!!
 
Thanks very much for the detailed instrux Huub. I appreciate it. And I will be very careful and promise not to blame you .) Thanks again!
 
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