johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Tri-X 400 rated @ 800 and developed in D76 by DigitalTruth data:
Berlin street view by Johan Kuiper, Portretteur.nl, buzzardkid, on Flickr
View on Berlin by Johan Kuiper, Portretteur.nl, buzzardkid, on Flickr
This was my debut with both Tri-X and D76. Suffered some calcium stains and spots, but have already devised a way to get rid of those next time...
Berlin street view by Johan Kuiper, Portretteur.nl, buzzardkid, on Flickr
View on Berlin by Johan Kuiper, Portretteur.nl, buzzardkid, on Flickr
This was my debut with both Tri-X and D76. Suffered some calcium stains and spots, but have already devised a way to get rid of those next time...
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Reducing development by 10% will give you lower contrast and thus (very slightly) lower speed. A third of a stop extra exposure with the same development time is likely to give you tonality you like better, but in any case, a vast amount depends on how you're metering (broad area, semi-spot, true spot), on light (flat or contrasty) and on subject matter. And, of course, on whether you're wet printing or scanning: lower contrast or less exposure or both may often be better for scanning.
Cheers,
R.
luuca
Well-known
usually I shot tri x @ 800 and develop it in rodinal 50+1
guoshuo
Established
shoot by measuring incident @ 320 and dev @ 400 in hc110b or h, done 50 some rolls so far so good.
nobbylon
Veteran
400 and hc110 (h) 12 mins at 68. 1st min and one inversion every minute. Neopan 400 I use same mix but for only 10 mins.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Shooting Tri-X at 320 and developing in D-76 1:1 usually gives me enough shadow detail. I will also use 250 in bright, contrasty sunlight. A nine minute development with agitation at one minute intervals is about right to avoid blowing the highiights. I use a condenser enlarger so I try not to boost the contrast too much.
pau3
Well-known
I was surprised to see this thread alive again. Anyway, I settled the question for
myself quite a long time ago: I rate trix at 250 in D76 1+1. Developing time depends
of course in the agitation. In my case, using the pattern suggested by Kodak literature
(continuous during the first 30s, then 5s every 30s), is 10m 30s, when I develop
5 rolls in a Jobo five roll tank (10% more than the nominal time, as suggested by
Kodak for D76).
This is true under normal lighting. However, in direct sunlight I prefer to be sure
and expose generously (for the shadows). Something like 500-f11 or 500-f9.5 and,
if necessary, print in a lower grade paper.
Best,
Pau
myself quite a long time ago: I rate trix at 250 in D76 1+1. Developing time depends
of course in the agitation. In my case, using the pattern suggested by Kodak literature
(continuous during the first 30s, then 5s every 30s), is 10m 30s, when I develop
5 rolls in a Jobo five roll tank (10% more than the nominal time, as suggested by
Kodak for D76).
This is true under normal lighting. However, in direct sunlight I prefer to be sure
and expose generously (for the shadows). Something like 500-f11 or 500-f9.5 and,
if necessary, print in a lower grade paper.
Best,
Pau
Mablo
Well-known
In typical summer lighting conditions I shoot Tri-X @ 200 and develop it in D-76 1+1 for 8:30mins. In flat light I shoot it @ 400 and develop for 11mins.
In general I regard Tri-X as EI 200 film.
In general I regard Tri-X as EI 200 film.
taylan
Street Dog
I shoot Tri-x @250 and use both D76 and X-tol 1+1 for development. D-76 gives a little more grainy photos which i like and i can get satisfactory shadow details with both of developer.