Peter_Jones
Well-known
It's smaller than a Koni TLR 
Tripod and paramender are pretty much essential though for close-ups and head/shoulder type portraits.
Tripod and paramender are pretty much essential though for close-ups and head/shoulder type portraits.
oftheherd
Veteran
Waiting to hear from Pirate how he likes it.
In 1976, when my Yashica 124 MAT G was stolen, I put a C330 on lay-a-way at the PX. I had one more payment to go when I acquired my Mamiya Super Press 23. I've never really looked back. But I expect I would have been happy with the C330 as well. It's just that 6x6 compared to 6x7 just didn't work for me any more. And I do remember that it was heavy. Of course, my Super Press 23 isn't exactly light either. I found that wide straps help a lot with both my Super Press and with the Rolleiflex I have.
So Pirate, did you get it? Do you like it?
In 1976, when my Yashica 124 MAT G was stolen, I put a C330 on lay-a-way at the PX. I had one more payment to go when I acquired my Mamiya Super Press 23. I've never really looked back. But I expect I would have been happy with the C330 as well. It's just that 6x6 compared to 6x7 just didn't work for me any more. And I do remember that it was heavy. Of course, my Super Press 23 isn't exactly light either. I found that wide straps help a lot with both my Super Press and with the Rolleiflex I have.
So Pirate, did you get it? Do you like it?
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
The M2 wasn't moving too fast so I headed down to a local shop run by another camera geek that one of the guys here told me about. It was great. He had never had an M2 in his Leica collection and he had a C330 with a 55mm (mint) lens. We did a good swap and all is well.
So, I've been playing with it and reading the manual (all of it). I love this thing. Big, yes, but not too big by my standards so it's all good. I've got a roll of HP5+ in it but it's not nice enough outside to get any good shots. That was certainly the easiest camera I have ever loaded (save for the Nikon F5).
I am curious about a couple things though:
1. About half way through the crank winding cycle I can feel some resistance. I'm assuming this is where a number of internal things are getting cocked, clicked, and otherwise set??
2. Depressing either shutter release lever, about halfway through the depression there's another bit of resistance. Once through this it will fire the shutter with no problem, but I'm wondering why there is so much resistance in the shutter release??
Thanks to anyone that can shed some light on those two bits for me.
So, I'm now looking to either ditch the 55mm or just outright purchase a 135 and 180 as I'm not a wide angle kinda guy. If I really want that, I have a 60mm for the Hasselblad and a Hassy Super Wide (38mm). I think I have the wide stuff covered.
http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2011/364/6/8/mamiya_c330_by_dudewithad700-d4krica.jpg
So, I've been playing with it and reading the manual (all of it). I love this thing. Big, yes, but not too big by my standards so it's all good. I've got a roll of HP5+ in it but it's not nice enough outside to get any good shots. That was certainly the easiest camera I have ever loaded (save for the Nikon F5).
I am curious about a couple things though:
1. About half way through the crank winding cycle I can feel some resistance. I'm assuming this is where a number of internal things are getting cocked, clicked, and otherwise set??
2. Depressing either shutter release lever, about halfway through the depression there's another bit of resistance. Once through this it will fire the shutter with no problem, but I'm wondering why there is so much resistance in the shutter release??
Thanks to anyone that can shed some light on those two bits for me.
So, I'm now looking to either ditch the 55mm or just outright purchase a 135 and 180 as I'm not a wide angle kinda guy. If I really want that, I have a 60mm for the Hasselblad and a Hassy Super Wide (38mm). I think I have the wide stuff covered.
http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2011/364/6/8/mamiya_c330_by_dudewithad700-d4krica.jpg
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
The shutter release and winding are normal for these. This camera works best, in my opinion, on a tripod with a cable release, but can be handheld if you're careful. I never really had trouble with the stiff release causing camera shake blur. It was the overall size + weight I had problems with. I'm in poor health and not physically strong and it was much worse back when I still had my C330f so you may not have any problem with the weight yourself.
Definately get an 80mm, its a VERY VERY sharp lens.
21-135 Apo All Good
Established
You're feeling the film tension on the spool, shutter cocking, etc. This is normal.
As to the shutter release: This isn't a Leica and remember that TWO mechanisms are in play. Also, since it sat for a while, some of the lubrication needs to get moving again. This is also normal, so don't worry. But do check to see if the shutter lock mechanism has been partially engaged...this prevents you from taking an image of the inside of your camera bag....
As to the shutter release: This isn't a Leica and remember that TWO mechanisms are in play. Also, since it sat for a while, some of the lubrication needs to get moving again. This is also normal, so don't worry. But do check to see if the shutter lock mechanism has been partially engaged...this prevents you from taking an image of the inside of your camera bag....
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Thanks guys, I was sitting here since Friday afternoon going through all the speeds to break up any stiff grease. I learned that lesson with the 60mm Hassy lens I have, so no worries I guess.
It'll be a few weeks before I get any film developed from this camera but I'll be shooting as soon as there's enough light outside. And as for the 80mm lens, I'm sure I'll get one for the set, maybe not right away, but I will get one. Thanks!
It'll be a few weeks before I get any film developed from this camera but I'll be shooting as soon as there's enough light outside. And as for the 80mm lens, I'm sure I'll get one for the set, maybe not right away, but I will get one. Thanks!
grainhound
Well-known
I would keep the 55 because for me it's useful and I like the lens. YMMV. Getting both a 135 and 180 is sensible to me - I have both. Actually, I have all but the 250. In terms of using the lenses, the 135 is more manageable than the 180. However, I think the 180 Super is a great lens and, my opinion aside, it's highly regarded by others.
Caveat 1: it's longer and heavier than the 135, and I find it a little difficult to hand hold. Best on a tripod or monopod for me.
Caveat 2: When I got a used 330 (I started with a 220 & still have it), the 180 often jammed. None of the other lenses did that, and I realized that the linkage between the lens and the automatic shutter cocking was the problem. I had that fixed, and it's been ok since, though I confess to underusing the whole system. I got into Leica gear... An extended car trip in the summer with a trunk full of camera gear is in order.
Caveat 3: If you get a 180, make sure it says "Super" in red. It's better optically than the earlier lenses.
Caveat 4: If you can find them, the Mamiya hoods are the best for all of the lenses because they don't obstruct the viewing lens. More clever engineering.
Last note (whew): I've started to wonder if the complaints about the weight of the 330 come from those who use a pentaprism. It's very heavy by itself. I have a porrofinder, and while I agree with Chris about its faults, they don't matter much to me because I use it in bright sunlight. It doesn't weigh much, but save your money for something else.
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1750Shooter
Established
Don't worry about the weight too much. Your S-model is a lot lighter than the F & with an Optech strap you won't notice it. People seem less threatened when you are looking down into a viewfinder rather than staring at them. lots of positive comments on using an "old"camera. Enjoy!
Pete B
Well-known
I took my 330f on hol to Rome/Venice. We would walk for 6 or 7 hours a day. I didn't find it a problem even with the thin strap I use. I have both a 55 and the 80mm lenses. I did purchase 2 135 lenses off ebay. Both were claimed to be fungus free. On both, the viewing lens was indeed fungus free. However, on both, the taking lens had fungus right across the lens. I have bought perhaps more than 20 lenses off ebay with no fungus problem. Is it just coincidence that these 2 135mm lenses were the only problem lenses? When people talk of soft 135mm lenses I wonder if that is what the problem was. So, to my point, if you do buy another lens set the lens to B and hold the shutter open and shine a torch through the taking lens even if the viewing len looks perfect.
My 330 has a problem in that if I handle it too much after winding on, the shutter activating mechanism partly activates without activating the shutter leaving me wondering if I'd wound it on. Now I only wind on immediately before taking the shot. If I do partly activate the shutter mechanism, rendering the shutter release inoperable, I'll activate the shutter directly on the lens.
A top tip I discovered to my (in the end fortuitous) cost, is putting a piece of duct tape over the back release to prevent it coming open if you're walking around with it dangling over your shoulder. I was walking down the Spanish steps and realised the back was open and tapping my upper thigh. The affected picture is quite nice though:
Pete
My 330 has a problem in that if I handle it too much after winding on, the shutter activating mechanism partly activates without activating the shutter leaving me wondering if I'd wound it on. Now I only wind on immediately before taking the shot. If I do partly activate the shutter mechanism, rendering the shutter release inoperable, I'll activate the shutter directly on the lens.
A top tip I discovered to my (in the end fortuitous) cost, is putting a piece of duct tape over the back release to prevent it coming open if you're walking around with it dangling over your shoulder. I was walking down the Spanish steps and realised the back was open and tapping my upper thigh. The affected picture is quite nice though:
Pete
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Pete B, I read about the back release on the 330 - if you twist the release button to the left it should lock so it will not come open. Did you try this and it still opened?
grainhound, thanks for those shots, I can see the difference in lenses. Not bad. The more I think about it, the more I might just keep the 55mm to make a complete set.
I was playing around with it more last night and I believe it's not as heavy as my Nikon D700, so I really don't think the weight will be an issue. We've got more snow today so I might actually get out to do some shooting.
And I believe that it has that Porrofinder on it because it is very dark as you guys describe. That has to go. I have a prism with the Hasselblad and it works very well when I use it, but with a TLR, it does not feel right, I need to get the Waist Level Finder for sure.
grainhound, thanks for those shots, I can see the difference in lenses. Not bad. The more I think about it, the more I might just keep the 55mm to make a complete set.
I was playing around with it more last night and I believe it's not as heavy as my Nikon D700, so I really don't think the weight will be an issue. We've got more snow today so I might actually get out to do some shooting.
And I believe that it has that Porrofinder on it because it is very dark as you guys describe. That has to go. I have a prism with the Hasselblad and it works very well when I use it, but with a TLR, it does not feel right, I need to get the Waist Level Finder for sure.
21-135 Apo All Good
Established
That's the Prism, NOT the Porrofinder you have on top of your camera! And that's the BRIGHT one at that! What you need now is the BRIGHTSCREEN to replace the Mamiya focusing screen. They are interchangeable! Some come with 8x10 crop marks, some come with split-image centers surrounded by a microprim collar.
When gripped properly using either the 330 Pistol Grip or a medium format square-based flash bracket, you can really crank that camera! Without removing your eye from the prism, you can advance the film & auto-cock the lens shutter upwards of 1.5 frames per second! Not that you would, but it is possible.
That 55mm lens is the new one. It's multi-coated. A real keeper!
The little red arrow in the viewfinder under the focusing screen is the indicator for the top of your image area. As you get real close, the arrow shows you the top of the image. Just "square-off" the bottom and you can guess theough practice where you wind-up. One you practice you won't need a Paramender for most close-ups, cause you can use the indicator. Once you get closer than a couple feet away, the Paramender becomes essential. With the 80mm lens, I can copy a square SX-70 polaroid image full frame while using the Paramender & tripod with cable release.
Glad to see you're having fun!
When gripped properly using either the 330 Pistol Grip or a medium format square-based flash bracket, you can really crank that camera! Without removing your eye from the prism, you can advance the film & auto-cock the lens shutter upwards of 1.5 frames per second! Not that you would, but it is possible.
That 55mm lens is the new one. It's multi-coated. A real keeper!
The little red arrow in the viewfinder under the focusing screen is the indicator for the top of your image area. As you get real close, the arrow shows you the top of the image. Just "square-off" the bottom and you can guess theough practice where you wind-up. One you practice you won't need a Paramender for most close-ups, cause you can use the indicator. Once you get closer than a couple feet away, the Paramender becomes essential. With the 80mm lens, I can copy a square SX-70 polaroid image full frame while using the Paramender & tripod with cable release.
Glad to see you're having fun!
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
Ok, through some reading I'm doing online I see that is not the Porro, just as you stated. The thing is really dark as the Porro is described though so a bright screen is certainly on my list now.
I got a couple test shots fired off earlier and was very pleased with the overall feel of shooting. If only it were above 25 degrees outside or I had some callas lillies for studio work!
I got a couple test shots fired off earlier and was very pleased with the overall feel of shooting. If only it were above 25 degrees outside or I had some callas lillies for studio work!
grainhound
Well-known
You might want to investigate cutting down a Mamiya RB 67 screen and putting that in. Easy DIY on a 330, I believe. I had a used one installed in my 220, which greatly improved ease of focus, but there are questions on the net about the RB screen's thickness related to that. I haven't got around to proper testing yet. Beattie screens are very expensive. The used RB screen set me back $25, plus installation, which I won't do myself on a 220.
If you come across a chimney finder, have a look. It may or may not appeal to you, but it cuts out all extraneous light and has a flip down 6x magnifier. Big, but hardly weighs anything.
Pete B
Well-known
WooHooo! Thanks for that. I've looked at that release button in the past thinking it looked like it was designed to be turned rather than slid, and now I know why! When it popped open I thought it was odd that those great designers hadn't thought about preventing such an occurence. I never put 2 and 2 together. Excellent. No more duct tape!
Pete
Pete B
Well-known
This is taken with the 55mm. I think the perspective of the 55mm really makes the picture.
Pete
PMCC
Late adopter.
I've used cut down plain matte RB screens for vintage Rolleis. Works well for me, and way cheaper than current new bright screens. Ground glass provides nice focus snap, and screen is bright enough for any daylight work, and workable for much of indoor.
Nokton48
Veteran
At one point, I think I had about everything ever made for the Mamiya C's. Eight bodies (C33, C3, C330, C330f, C330s, even the original Mamiyaflex). These are great workhorses, and still have alot of utility left in them. Just test them well, and become confident with each one, before using them under pressure.
I shot close to a hundred weddings with these cameras, and they are great for what they are.
I shot close to a hundred weddings with these cameras, and they are great for what they are.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
This is taken with the 55mm. I think the perspective of the 55mm really makes the picture.
Pete
I agree, this shot is perfect. Reminds me of a couple I took in Paris of cars like this. Had the Hasselblad and the 60mm.
Well, I spent money today. Couldn't help myself, as we all know. Bought a 135mm lens assembly and the grip with trigger... and a WLF. I did check out the chimney finder and it does look nice. I'll save that for next month ;-)
And I will certainly look into cutting down an RB screen or thereabouts. I can do work like that and it does need something.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
I have had the chimney finder for a bunch of years now (maybe 17 or so) and like it a lot. It's really not heavier than the folding WLF, but it is certainly more bulky! It blocks extraneous light well and the central magnifier makes focus very easy.
I have an aftermarket screen for one of my bodies, Beattie or Brightscreen, not sure which, also something i've had close to 20 years. i find it easier to compose on that screen, but am not sure that focus is any easier. My current favorite is the 'checker' screen, with a grid. It just works well for me.
I have an aftermarket screen for one of my bodies, Beattie or Brightscreen, not sure which, also something i've had close to 20 years. i find it easier to compose on that screen, but am not sure that focus is any easier. My current favorite is the 'checker' screen, with a grid. It just works well for me.
Pirate
Guitar playing Fotografer
I have the chimney finder on my list to get, and now after playing with a friends Mamiyaflex for a week, I want one of these bodies too! The Mamiyaflex is much nicer than I thought it would be and very easy to maneuver around.