The complete kit includes:
- A zippered clamshell leather case 4" x 4.5" x 1.5".
- The Rolleimeter device itself, stamped as either "2.8" or "3.5" on the swing-arm.
- A calibration disk. This disk is used to determine the correct setting of an adjustment on the device's swing-arm, and it is only needed for initial set-up. Then the disk can be safely stored somewhere never to be found again.
- An instruction booklet. (This can be found on-line.)
There are different Rolleimeter models for Rolleiflexes with light meters and without light meters. The Rolleimeters for Rolleiflexes without light meters cannot be used on Rolleiflexes with light meters - the light meter gets in the way and the Rolleimeter cannot be attached to the camera.
I have used a no-light-meter Rolleiflex 2.8C with the Rolleimeter. It works, and I found it easier to get accurate focus, especially since the 2.8C still has its original focusing screen, which is old and dim. Low-light focusing is a lot easier.
For street shooting, the way I used it was to have the Rolleimeter attached at the top of the camera, a pistol grip attached at the bottom of the camera, and the leather strap for the camera placed over the head and around the neck. With this setup, the camera is held much higher than waist level, so if the goal is to have waist level perspective, you have to sit down.
For tripod use, put a Rolleifix on the bottom of the camera instead of the pistol grip. I have put a Rolleiflex on a tripod and then had to use a step-ladder to get tall enough to see the focusing screen. A Rolleimeter solves that problem.
The Rolleimeter cannot be used when Rolleinars (close-up lenses) are on the camera, because the close-up lenses change the focal length, and the Rolleimeter has no way to adjust for that.