Lightleaks FED 5?

It could be from where the removable back meets the camera body. You could check this by covering the joint with black tape to see if that prevents the light leak. If it proves to be the joint then you could try gluing black woollen thread in the groove on the camera body.
 
If the light leak extends into the sproket area of the film then it is probably coming from the joint between the camera back and the body. Given that it is not even across the width of the film, that would seem to be the most likely cause. Try covering the seam on the right side of the camera with a strip of black electrical tape to see if that fixes the problem.

Otherwise, I would look watch the shutter curtains for gaps when you advance the film.
 
Hi

Tank´s for the input on my problem, so tape the back will solve the isue with this?

Or is there a more permanent solution on the problem? as sealing the gaps with some special stuff/material?
 
jujimbo said:
Or is there a more permanent solution on the problem? as sealing the gaps with some special stuff/material?
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The idea of the tape is to prove that the problem is along the back/body joint (which I agree is the likely cause). If the tape stops the leaks, you have found the problem. Fanshaw's reply suggests fixing some black wool into the slot in the camera where the back fits, this would be (hopefully) the permanent fix once you have proved where the leak comes from.
 
wolves3012 said:
The idea of the tape is to prove that the problem is along the back/body joint (which I agree is the likely cause). If the tape stops the leaks, you have found the problem. Fanshaw's reply suggests fixing some black wool into the slot in the camera where the back fits, this would be (hopefully) the permanent fix once you have proved where the leak comes from.
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I had something similar but could never find the source between the back and body. Could it be a leak from the top, through the RF window?
 
Have taken a test film now, fuji superia iso 200, covered the gaps in the backplate with black electric tape, so I hope that there will show no lightsleaks on the film when I get it back from the lab.

Then I can do the work with sealing the gaps more permanent, bougt some sticky 1mm felt for camera use on ebay cheap, so I have if I nead it.
 
From the consistent position of the leak, I agree with the other suggestions about gluing a piece of black wool inside the slot in the body into which the top of the camera back fits. I think there should have been something of that sort in there originally, but it may have fallen out.

Another thing to do as well as the wool is to cover the shiny aluminum edges of the backplate where it fits into the camera body using black permanent marker, which seems to stick to aluminum well. I don't know why those surfaces were not originally painted black, but it seems most camera manufacturers did not think it was necessary.

Cheers,
Dez
 
I have now got the test film back , no luck the tape did not solve the problem, same light leaks as before.:bang:

Now i´m tired on this camera,trash bin nest?
 
zuikologist said:
I had something similar but could never find the source between the back and body. Could it be a leak from the top, through the RF window?
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Indeed, it could be. My FED-2 had a light leak from somewhere near the rangefinder window! It was not a problem between exposures, but created a bright area during exposure when the camera was facing the sun or other bright light.


Steve
 
jujimbo said:
I have now got the test film back , no luck the tape did not solve the problem, same light leaks as before.:bang:

Now i´m tired on this camera,trash bin nest?
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Was that a colour test film? What colour is the light leak on the film? That way you can find out whether the light is coming from the back or the front.
 
The Fed 5 actually has a design flaw in the exposure counter. Take the back off and look at where the back meets the body underneath the winding lever; there's a black tab sticking out of the top which resets the counter when it's pressed in, and that tab has a channel it runs through. On some Fed 5s light can bounce down that channel and it causes a distinctive leak (as shown in your photos) that no amount of tape can fix.

The secret is a creative application of light sealing foam inside the back. I'd take a photo to show you how I solved it, but I've got film inside mine right now. A basic description of the solution is that if you put a small piece of foam on the very top edge of the back (to press against the tab itself), and then a suitably chunk piece of foam running along the curve of the back that will push up against the top of the inside of the camera, ensuring that the light cannot possibly reach the film.

Hope that helps; it'll certainly fix your problem if you can understand my cack-handed description. I'm just sorry I've been off the forum for a couple of weeks and haven't been able to help you sooner - I hope the Fed didn't end up in the bin! The Fed 5 may be "ugly" to some, but it's a great camera to use.
 
Coldkennels said:
The Fed 5 actually has a design flaw in the exposure counter. Take the back off and look at where the back meets the body underneath the winding lever; there's a black tab sticking out of the top which resets the counter when it's pressed in, and that tab has a channel it runs through. On some Fed 5s light can bounce down that channel and it causes a distinctive leak (as shown in your photos) that no amount of tape can fix.

The secret is a creative application of light sealing foam inside the back. I'd take a photo to show you how I solved it, but I've got film inside mine right now. A basic description of the solution is that if you put a small piece of foam on the very top edge of the back (to press against the tab itself), and then a suitably chunk piece of foam running along the curve of the back that will push up against the top of the inside of the camera, ensuring that the light cannot possibly reach the film.

Hope that helps; it'll certainly fix your problem if you can understand my cack-handed description. I'm just sorry I've been off the forum for a couple of weeks and haven't been able to help you sooner - I hope the Fed didn't end up in the bin! The Fed 5 may be "ugly" to some, but it's a great camera to use.
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I have looked at my Fed-5 and I can see the part you mean. However the counter reset pin is on the extreme RHS of the spool chamber. I would have thought that any light leak from that source would affect the spooled film, so that the light fogging would be randomly spaced and not on the same place on each frame as seen in the example photos.
 
You'd think, wouldn't you? I spent ages chasing the exact same light leak in the exact same position and yet that's where it was. The best I can figure is that the way the film wraps around as it is wound onto the take-up spool ensures the leak always falls at roughly the same point on the frame. But if you look further on in the roll (where the diameter of the take-up spool will have increased), the leak has moved to the right side of the frame - makes sense, right?

Anyhow, I know it seems unlikely, but it's true. I completely "foamed" that corner as I described (after sealing every single section of the join between back and body) and it fixed the problem right up. I don't know just how many Fed 5s have the same problem, but looking at how it's designed, I can't help but think it must be a fairly common trait.
 
Try this. Load film. Make one good exposure to mark the position on the film, then four blank exposures (e.g. lens cap on). Then leave the camera out in the light for a couple of days. Bright, but not direct sunlight. Four more blank exposures and then shoot the rest of the roll. You should get a real good light leak. Measure off the film by counting sprocket holes to locate which area of film was where during the two days.

See this previous thread here.
 
Coldkennels said:
You'd think, wouldn't you? I spent ages chasing the exact same light leak in the exact same position and yet that's where it was. The best I can figure is that the way the film wraps around as it is wound onto the take-up spool ensures the leak always falls at roughly the same point on the frame. But if you look further on in the roll (where the diameter of the take-up spool will have increased), the leak has moved to the right side of the frame - makes sense, right?

Anyhow, I know it seems unlikely, but it's true. I completely "foamed" that corner as I described (after sealing every single section of the join between back and body) and it fixed the problem right up. I don't know just how many Fed 5s have the same problem, but looking at how it's designed, I can't help but think it must be a fairly common trait.
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Well, full marks to you for spotting it! I would never have guessed it. I have one of each of the Fed-5 types and none of mine have this problem, so perhaps it isn't a design fault so much as a manufacturing fault. The pins on mine are a close fit in the channel.
 
Mine is a very, very loose fit. Out of interest, what's the serial number on yours? Mine's 674863, and I'm wondering whether it's particularly a problem with the later production runs.

(Oh, and actually, it really was a lucky catch; I'd put a few rolls of film through while I was "chasing" the leak, and I started to despair a bit. Eventually I'd got the back off and was moving the camera around, examining it, when I noticed a tiny flicker of light down that channel. God only knows how I spotted it. Trying to get the angle right to make it visible again was awkward as all hell!)
 
Coldkennels said:
Mine is a very, very loose fit. Out of interest, what's the serial number on yours? Mine's 674863, and I'm wondering whether it's particularly a problem with the later production runs.

(Oh, and actually, it really was a lucky catch; I'd put a few rolls of film through while I was "chasing" the leak, and I started to despair a bit. Eventually I'd got the back off and was moving the camera around, examining it, when I noticed a tiny flicker of light down that channel. God only knows how I spotted it. Trying to get the angle right to make it visible again was awkward as all hell!)
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Serial nos.: Fed-5:065702, Fed-5B:404885, Fed-5C: 606368
The Fed-5C was probably made later than the other two because it is labelled 'Made in Ukraine'
 
You know, now you mention it, my Fed 5 has no markings mentioning either the USSR OR the Ukraine on it. I'd never noticed that before. But the SN obviously makes it later than yours, so my theory could be correct.

I wonder what Jujimbo's SN is?
 
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