George Bonanno
Well-known
Have any of you tried it ? It's a foolproof process of developing and fixing B&W film in a single bath. Time and temperature within reason are to no avail. And it gives wonderful results since it's totally compensating.
Google "monobath" for two popular formulas. HC110 for convenience and Phenidone (FX-6a) for excellent results.
BTW: Do yourself a favor and ignore any APLUG posts as they are incoherent, rambling and without any merit or picture information.
Show and tell...
Sunflower Jerry, taken with a Baby Speed Graphic on 2.25 x 3.25" Efke 100 sheet film, handheld 1/100sec @ f16. Processed in Crawley FX-6a monobath, 10min @ 76ºf.
post 301
Google "monobath" for two popular formulas. HC110 for convenience and Phenidone (FX-6a) for excellent results.
BTW: Do yourself a favor and ignore any APLUG posts as they are incoherent, rambling and without any merit or picture information.
Show and tell...
Sunflower Jerry, taken with a Baby Speed Graphic on 2.25 x 3.25" Efke 100 sheet film, handheld 1/100sec @ f16. Processed in Crawley FX-6a monobath, 10min @ 76ºf.
post 301
robklurfield
eclipse
Wow. That's a beautiful image.
George, do you consider monobath an easy process to master?
An off-topic aside: "Interesting" choice of headgear by Jerry (not sure I approve of its symbolism, but speech is still free here... and, of course, I don't know if that helmet means the same thing to him that it does to me).
George, do you consider monobath an easy process to master?
An off-topic aside: "Interesting" choice of headgear by Jerry (not sure I approve of its symbolism, but speech is still free here... and, of course, I don't know if that helmet means the same thing to him that it does to me).
George Bonanno
Well-known
Thank you Rob.
There is nothing to master using monobath as it's actually mindless. Like I said, It's a foolproof process of developing and fixing B&W film in a single bath. Time and temperature are of little concern. Then wash and dry.
As far as Jerry's headgear is concerned I typically don't interfere with the picture taking process. I ask "may I take your picture ?". If the answer is "why ?" then I retort "It's a yes or no answer" ! I do not make nice with subjects or carry on a dialog. I take the picture when permission is given... then move on.
Best,
George
There is nothing to master using monobath as it's actually mindless. Like I said, It's a foolproof process of developing and fixing B&W film in a single bath. Time and temperature are of little concern. Then wash and dry.
As far as Jerry's headgear is concerned I typically don't interfere with the picture taking process. I ask "may I take your picture ?". If the answer is "why ?" then I retort "It's a yes or no answer" ! I do not make nice with subjects or carry on a dialog. I take the picture when permission is given... then move on.
Best,
George
btgc
Veteran
Are there benefits compared to dev/fix process?
As I feel dumping fixer into sink isn't good for environment, I'd be forced to carry larger amounts of waste for proper disposal.
As I feel dumping fixer into sink isn't good for environment, I'd be forced to carry larger amounts of waste for proper disposal.
robklurfield
eclipse
George, you've got both a good method for recording the images and developing them.
Foolproof is something I can put to the test. If I can do it; anyone can do it.
Foolproof is something I can put to the test. If I can do it; anyone can do it.
George Bonanno
Well-known
btgc...
There are benefits compared to the traditional process. Monobath is a single solution. Again, time and temperature are of little consequence. One liter of the solution can safely process twelve rolls or 960 square inches of B&W photo film.
Personally, I have little concern for environmental efforts. However if you are so concerned then filter through a double coffee filter or a Qualitative P5 filter and drop the remains off at your local plant for disposal. They will either cash in on the silver content or dump it into a sewer landfill.
There are superior monobath formulas on the internet written in Russian but I cannot decipher them. Surely you can.
There are benefits compared to the traditional process. Monobath is a single solution. Again, time and temperature are of little consequence. One liter of the solution can safely process twelve rolls or 960 square inches of B&W photo film.
Personally, I have little concern for environmental efforts. However if you are so concerned then filter through a double coffee filter or a Qualitative P5 filter and drop the remains off at your local plant for disposal. They will either cash in on the silver content or dump it into a sewer landfill.
There are superior monobath formulas on the internet written in Russian but I cannot decipher them. Surely you can.
KenR
Well-known
Most of the posts I've seen involve adding rapid fixer or ammonia to HC110 after a certain period of time. To my way of thinking, this is not a true monobath which involves only one solution of developer plus fixer. If I have to add something at five minutes, I might as well just process traditionally and fix in the regular manner.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
If it were really foolproof, and showed no real disadvantages over conventional processing, it would have swept the board by now. The principal disadvantages are either low speed or low sharpness or both, and the fact that the formula needs to be matched quite closely to the film in use in order to minimize these disadvantages. And, of course, when attempting to make anything foolproof, one should never underestimate the ingenuity of the common fool. (Has anyone a RELIABLE source for this quote?)
Cheers,
R.
Cheers,
R.
George Bonanno
Well-known
I have never read a post or in print on the monobath process where any other liquid had to be added at some time afterwards.
The monobath process is exactly what it implies... a one liquid solution to produce complete development and fixation in a single bath. I've been using the monobath method for about two years and have not had a box film speed or image sharpness issue with 35mm and 120 films of any type. In the beginning I did have a contrast issue (snappy negs) so I increased the amount of sodium thiosulfate by 20 grams and now all is well.
The origin of my post is to introduce film users to an alternative development process that is simple and yet foolproof.
It seems to me it's rejected by some for all the wrong inaccurate reasons.
In any case I will press on producing negatives with full fidelity that are perfect for scanning and silver printing.
The monobath process is exactly what it implies... a one liquid solution to produce complete development and fixation in a single bath. I've been using the monobath method for about two years and have not had a box film speed or image sharpness issue with 35mm and 120 films of any type. In the beginning I did have a contrast issue (snappy negs) so I increased the amount of sodium thiosulfate by 20 grams and now all is well.
The origin of my post is to introduce film users to an alternative development process that is simple and yet foolproof.
It seems to me it's rejected by some for all the wrong inaccurate reasons.
In any case I will press on producing negatives with full fidelity that are perfect for scanning and silver printing.
DominikDUK
Well-known
Thank you for starting that thread unfortunately there are some downsides. Slightly decreased sharpness (not really a problem think Type 55), Emulsion is softened (can be a huge problem if the tanks isn't really clean or some of the chemicals are not completely disolved), speed loss, increased grain. Except for the softer emulsion all negative aspects can be used for good effect. The Type 55 look came from this shortcomings and is absolutely sublime in my opinion.
Dominik
Dominik