Is a new EP-1 worth $150?

[raid]

No need for any arguments. Get the $150 deal.

 

[rparmar]

For Digital, I'll use the lenses made for the camera.

I think anyone getting into an Olympus MFT system owes it to themselves to at least try some of the good cheap native primes. And it doesn't cost much, at least not compared to most lens prices on this forum!

I bought a Panasonic 14/2.5 for £95 (brand new out of kit box) and the Panasonic 20/1.7 (mint condition used) for £210. That's your 28mm and 40mm equivalents right there. For tele I would add the Olympus 45/1.8 at £200 (used with warranty).

Is £500 too much for a complete kit? If so, sub in an adapted lens for the tele, as I did. (It's harder to do this on the wider end, given the FOV conversion factor.)

Also, I hear conflicting report about the status of AA filters after the experiment with the EPL-1. I hear yes on same AA in the EPL-2 and I hear no... both of those reponses about 50/50. Who hear really knows and can document continued use of the weaker AA filter.

I thought I posted this before but perhaps it was another thread. All Olympus models after the E-PL1 share the same AA filter. This is widely known on the dedicated MFT fora. And I have demonstrated it in my Olympus PEN Image Quality Test. Images for pixel peeping provided!

 

[ampguy]

there are differences

there are differences

in colors, and under different lighting than your photos.

Here is one site with images, first 2 are EPL1 (first original kit lens, then later kit lens), last two are the EPL2, with kit lens, then newer kit lens.)

http://www.omuser.com/viewthread.php?tid=144801&extra=page=2

The folks who should know, or could know if they have the tools would be the IR and full spectrum conversion folks who pull the filters out.

But then again, they're usually servicing the latest models, and might not want to mention that a current or newer model is different from an earlier one.

Even if the filters are the same, the processor firmware has changed, new menus, new higher ISO, faster shutter, etc.

But as your photos and many others show, in most lighting, the EPL2 (and maybe even EPL3? is still a fine camera and deal.

I think anyone getting into an Olympus MFT system owes it to themselves to at least try some of the good cheap native primes. And it doesn't cost much, at least not compared to most lens prices on this forum!

I bought a Panasonic 14/2.5 for £95 (brand new out of kit box) and the Panasonic 20/1.7 (mint condition used) for £210. That's your 28mm and 40mm equivalents right there. For tele I would add the Olympus 45/1.8 at £200 (used with warranty).

Is £500 too much for a complete kit? If so, sub in an adapted lens for the tele, as I did. (It's harder to do this on the wider end, given the FOV conversion factor.)



I thought I posted this before but perhaps it was another thread. All Olympus models after the E-PL1 share the same AA filter. This is widely known on the dedicated MFT fora. And I have demonstrated it in my Olympus PEN Image Quality Test. Images for pixel peeping provided!

 

[raid]

I have a 17mm/2.8 Olympus lens and now got the 14mm-42mm Olympus zoom.
The zoom is sharper than the prime lens.

 

[ampguy]

Hi Raid

Hi Raid

Did you get the first version (extends in about 3 sections), or the newer one, extends I think in 2 sections?

Be sure to get the latest firmware for your lens - by d/l the Olympus utility and hooking up the camera by USB, it will tell you if you have the latest.

I keep my zoom at around the 25mm range, and try to use 5.6, which is where dpreview and some other sites got the best MTF performance, and least distortion.

The zoom, appears as good as my 21/4 LTM wrt sharpness and shooting in the sun flare (no droplets), but the high contrast of the lens does give high contrast b/w out of the camera.

The CV 21 is a lot more fun to use though, focusing is very easy with and without magnification, no color shifts. Probably both vignette some at the corners, haven't measured yet.

m43 to Konica AR adapter is probably next, followed by a Nikon F.

I have a 17mm/2.8 Olympus lens and now got the 14mm-42mm Olympus zoom.
The zoom is sharper than the prime lens.

 

[raid]

Thank you for the useful tips. Once I get the ens, I will uplosd the latest firmware.

 

[stewmander]

I also read on the dpreview forums and other m4/3 forums that the epl2 does indeed have the same AA filter as the epl1...

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1041&message=37568766&changemode=1

Although the images might be better on the epl1, it is said to be negligable...I think an epl2 would be worth getting as long as it is not much more than the epl1, but at $150 and $200 for the epl1 kit, youll wont find an epl2 deal that can beat that very easily

 

[rparmar]

I think an epl2 would be worth getting as long as it is not much more than the epl1, but at $150 and $200 for the epl1 kit, youll wont find an epl2 deal that can beat that very easily

Remember that the E-PL2 kit comes with the MkII kit zoom, which is worth a lot more on the secondary market than the original. If you factor that in, I managed to get a better deal on the E-PL2 than the E-PL1 (used market), though prices are volatile and YMMV.

The limitations of the E-PL1 would drive me nuts. I already find myself shooting against the limit of ISO200 and 1/4000s. With a shutter speed one stop slower, I'd need ND filters a lot of the time. Of course this depends entirely on your shooting style.

 

[raid]

How much was your deal for th EPL2 plus lens? Also, did you get one year warranty? Olympus charges a flat repair fee of $175 for any type of repair on such a camera.

The new EP1 with a one year warranty for $150 is difficult to beat. The 14-42 zoom cost $50.

 

[Thardy]

I have to put things in perspective!

I have to put things in perspective!

Remember that the E-PL2 kit comes with the MkII kit zoom, which is worth a lot more on the secondary market than the original. If you factor that in, I managed to get a better deal on the E-PL2 than the E-PL1 (used market), though prices are volatile and YMMV.

The limitations of the E-PL1 would drive me nuts. I already find myself shooting against the limit of ISO200 and 1/4000s. With a shutter speed one stop slower, I'd need ND filters a lot of the time. Of course this depends entirely on your shooting style.

Hi Robin, I thought the EPL2 with new lens was a really good deal at $279, but I was offered a new camera kit for $349, since they were out of the factory demo.

I was a little bummed at spending $70 more than I had wanted, but putting things in perspective, I've already spent $70 this week on "staycation" and I only have a magazine to show for it.

 

[ampguy]

Yes

Yes

For some, the EPL2 could have advantages, it is newer, has the 1/4000 shutter, and if it does have a stronger AA filter, this will result in less moire situations, and also stronger AA allows for a wider diffraction range, just as the new Nikon D800 with AA filter lets you stop down more than a D800E without AA filter.

I also read on the dpreview forums and other m4/3 forums that the epl2 does indeed have the same AA filter as the epl1...

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1041&message=37568766&changemode=1

Although the images might be better on the epl1, it is said to be negligable...I think an epl2 would be worth getting as long as it is not much more than the epl1, but at $150 and $200 for the epl1 kit, youll wont find an epl2 deal that can beat that very easily

 

[batterytypehah!]

How's the E-PL1 for macro work?

How's the E-PL1 for macro work?

So, I had pretty much made up my mind against one, after watching a video and realizing just how menu-dependent it is. A glorified compact in that regard, ugh. Worse, actually, with those dumbed-down sliders. And the 2x crop really doesn't gel with my modest stable of lenses.

However, I did think of another use I have, and that's cutting down on the time I spend scanning for the web. I have an Epson 4490 and won't be able to upgrade any time soon. I find it slow and cumbersome for 35mm. I've seen some very impressive work here on RFF (member charjohncarter comes to mind) that wasn't scanned but macro-photographed from slides/negs. Obviously, I would need sturdy support/alignment and even, neutral backlighting. What else? (Lens, extension tubes?) And can it be set up for neg-to-pos conversion in-camera?

 

[raid]

It seems that there are several excellent deals out there for digital cameras. This is always good to know. I have never used the EPL-1 or EPL-2, so I will have to learn about the EPL-1 when it comes in the mail. For me, it will be a supplement to the EP-2 that I have.

 

[rparmar]

How much was your deal for th EPL2 plus lens? Also, did you get one year warranty? Olympus charges a flat repair fee of $175 for any type of repair on such a camera.

Prices are not comparable since I am in Ireland. Though to be simplistic one can simply swap dollar signs for Euro signs.

A black Olympus EPL-2 with 14-42mm II was €235 shipped to my door. My E-P1 (body only) was €160. So I consider the E-PL2 a smashing good deal.

I bought second-hand so there was no warranty consideration. Personally I don't put much stock in them since I would need to pay shipping to and from depot at my expense and this is always out of the country. And then being without a camera for sometimes months of service time rather sucks. For products this cheap it makes no sense for me. In any case, I don't think I've ever had a product break while within warranty period. It's either DOA. Or breaks a week after the warranty expires. 😛

 

[rparmar]

I should clarify, in case I have muddied the waters, that I do think $150 for the E-PL1 is a good deal! But if the E-PL2 can be found for a bit more, I'd go for it.

 

[raid]

My EP2 suddenly died recently. I tried in vin to bring it back to life. Olympus chsrges in the USA a flat fee $175, so I bought a new EP2 with warranty for $250. i don't trust such cameras anymore to be my only travel camera, so I got the EPL1 as a bavk-up.

 

[rparmar]

So, I had pretty much made up my mind against one, after watching a video and realizing just how menu-dependent it is. A glorified compact in that regard, ugh. Worse, actually, with those dumbed-down sliders.

If you're shooting in A mode with a lens with aperture dial, as I do extensively, you don't need the menu at all except to switch ISO. That's very quick once you've turned on the correct Smart Menu setting (don't remember what it's called).

If you are shooting a lens without an aperture dial it's rather fiddly. Better off with the E-P2/3 which has the thumb wheel.

 

[raid]

I should clarify, in case I have muddied the waters, that I do think $150 for the E-PL1 is a good deal! But if the E-PL2 can be found for a bit more, I'd go for it.

The EPL2 costs more money in th USA, so maybe you got a good deal for Europe.

 

[rparmar]

The EPL2 costs more money in th USA, so maybe you got a good deal for Europe.

Yes, I got a good deal, however...

The E-PL2 kit used on eBay fetches $260-270. The lens alone has sold for $140, $145, and $162 in the last three completed transactions. Seems like one could net the body for $100-130 plus fees.

Now that would be a good deal!

 

[raid]

I paid $50 for tne 14-42 lens, within my kit. Separating the lens will lead to a costlier lens.