Shot Neopan 100 Acros on ISO 400.

[Yoricko]

Bought the film and intended to push to 400, but there isn't any ref for pushing the acros to 400.

From the Acros PDF file.

18ºC / TMax Dev / ISO 100 = 6 1/2 Minutes
18ºC / TMax Dev / ISO 200 = 9 1/2 Minutes
24ºC / TMax Dev / ISO 100 = 4 Minutes
24ºC / TMax Dev / ISO 200 = 5 1/2 Minutes

Any suggestions for how long I should soup my Acros if I want to push to 400 at 24ºC?

Thanks.

 

[Fotohuis]

push: +1F time * 1,33

+2F time * 1,33²​

​

So 6,5 x 1,33 x 1,33 = 11,5 minutes (18 degrees C for Tmax developer)
and 4 x 1,33 x 1,33 = 7 minutes (24 degrees C for T max developer)

 

[Al Kaplan]

You can set your meter at 400 but you're not "pushing" your film anywhere. You might be able to get a "printable" negative by increasing the development time but you're going to end up with shadows lacking in detail, blown highlights, and too much contrast in the mid-tones. The Acros PDF file knows something that you don't want to accept. If Fuji knew how to get decent negs at 400 they'd be glad to publish the data.

 

[Fotohuis]

I agree with Al Kaplan so you will be better of with e.g. Neopan 400 for the overall quality.

Only with a strong speed enhancing developer you can get around iso 160-200 reasonable negatives.

The combination of the two bath Diafine (BKA) is pretty good with the Fuji Acros 100:
iso 160 2x5 minutes in Diafine will do the rest.

Best regards,

Robert

 

[Yoricko]

I already shot half the of the roll before checking out in the intarnetz.

So I have little choice but to see what I'll get at ISO 400. (Or go with ISO 200 with slightly underexposed pictures?)

Thanks for the very kind responses.

Edit: I usually shoot with Tri-X, but I had no more film, so I went to a random shop to get one. :X

 

[Freakscene]

>Arista Edu.Ultra 100 - whatever the hell that is

That's Fomapan 100.

Marty

 

[Al Kaplan]

It would have made sense to finish off the first roll at 400, but more sense to have just taken it out of the camera for development, then reload and shoot the other rolls at 200 for which Fuji did supply the developing data. Fuji does hype the fact that you can develop their films for either this ISO or that ISO, true, but one of them has to be closer to the truth, the other almost as acceptable. In the end it depends on what YOU consider as being acceptable.

 

[colyn]

Fuji Neopan 100 exposed at 400 and souped in D-76 1:1 for 11.5 minutes.

 

[Yoricko]

It would have made sense to finish off the first roll at 400, but more sense to have just taken it out of the camera for development, then reload and shoot the other rolls at 200 for which Fuji did supply the developing data. Fuji does hype the fact that you can develop their films for either this ISO or that ISO, true, but one of them has to be closer to the truth, the other almost as acceptable. In the end it depends on what YOU consider as being acceptable.

Like I said, I usually use tri-x, since I had no film on me, I went to a random film shop and grabbed this. So I only got 1 roll.

Anyways I just want suggestions on the developer timing.

Edit: thanks for the pic colyn, seems good enough for me

 

[Fotohuis]

>Arista Edu.Ultra 100 - whatever the hell that is

That's Fomapan 100.

Some more Fomapan (from the Czech Republic) information:


http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Ontwikkeltijden.pdf

 

[Yoricko]

24ºC, 7 Minutes, Neopan 100 Acros, pushed to EI400
Agitated for the first minute, 5 seconds every 30 seconds after.

1/60s or 1/125s | F1.5

1/125s | F5.6 or F8

1/1000th | F1.5

Turned out decent, little loss in shadow detail and a little bit of blown highlights.

 

[drewbarb]

The times you post above give enough info to calcualte 12.5 minutes @ 18C or 7 minutes at 24C with Tmax developer. But I haven't really used Tmax developer, and anyway, I'd do a test first, before processing an important roll- even just a few frames clipped off the front of the roll before you run the whole thing.

 

[filmfan]

I just shot a roll of Legacy Pro 100 (Neopan 100 ACROS) at 400 thinking it was Legacy Pro 400 (Neopan 400). Both of their canisters look exactly alike minus the numbers. It was dark, that's my only excuse.
Develop in D76 or Rodinal do we think?

-Sam

 

[znapper]

HC-110, Dilution H for 20 minutes at 20 degrees looked very good to me for Acros at EI400, but I tried that in a place with pretty flat light, so it's hard to tell how the contrast really works. (negs were pretty dense, but scanned well, noise was extremely low for EI400).

Burning up 120 for this kind of use is a little expensive, but I might do another try with various scenes and situations at EI400 and HC-110 Dil. H to get a better idea on the shadow deatail.