how to push tmax 100 to 400...

SimonSawSunlight

SimonSawSunlight

Simon Fabel
Local time
2:42 AM
Joined
Mar 7, 2008
Messages
3,048
...I had no tri-x left at some point in Istanbul so I just took tmax 100 and exposed at 400. now what? :D
should I just drown it in LC29 1+19 for 15 minutes?
there's some rodinal around here too, would that be better? if so what dilution / time?
 
I think you'll find that if you look Kodak will give you a clue in their film datasheet. You may have to use a different developer.

Otherwise take a new roll of T-Max 100, expose it at 400 on some test subject and try whatever you fancy as development and see if its ballpark.
 
135format said:
I think you'll find that if you look Kodak will give you a clue in their film datasheet. You may have to use a different developer.

Otherwise take a new roll of T-Max 100, expose it at 400 on some test subject and try whatever you fancy as development and see if its ballpark.
Click to expand...

yes, thanks. but that would be the long road. I was hoping someone had a little experience as to what works better etc.

ps: I couldn't find any data about either of the developers in the tmax datasheet (or maybe I'm blind :D ).
 
SimonSawSunlight said:
yes, thanks. but that would be the long road. I was hoping someone had a little experience as to what works better etc.

ps: I couldn't find any data about either of the developers in the tmax datasheet (or maybe I'm blind :D ).
Click to expand...


I would look up the precise info (I have it, but I'm going to bed now), but I'll give you the pointers in case it has changed since the last time I used it (about five years ago): I used Edwal FG7 with (...something I can't remember!) to push some HP5+ film I had underexposed (I had rated at 800 by mistake...long story). I know that's only one stop, you want two.

I was going to suggest Acufine, but the best you could do with that is close to ISO 200, I think, for TMax 100.

If the thought of accented grain on TMax doesn't make you cringe, I'd try Rodinal (1+25 at about 18 or 20 min?) with reduced agitation.
 
Shot T-max 400 @ 1600 before and developed in Rodinal 1:25.

What I did (and you should shoot another test roll to do this with first, or loose Istanbul shots) is take the time the DigitalTruth listing said, multiply it by 1.33 to get from 400 to 800 and multiply the outcome again by 1.33 to get to 1600.

Shots were grainy but useful.

EDIT: Gabriel above here just stated similar for T-Max 100

I suspect something similar should be possible to do with kodak D76 or T-max developer (Foto-Impex?) and it would hold down grain, too.
 
I was going to suggest Microphen or DDX, but as those aren't on hand it seems a bit unhelpful!

The Ilford dev-chart only shows a two-stops-push figure for Tri-x in LC29 and that comes out at double the 'standard' EI time while using 1:9 concentration. For TMax100 that would mean 7 minutes at 20C (coincidentally the same time as for TriX, hmmmm, might be a guide). I suppose you could always clip-test if you are willing to sacrifice one shot.

Good luck!

I'm still going through my Istanbul developing backlog at two rolls per day, then there is contact-printing, examination, and the re-shooting of chosen negs with a DSLR . . . I should have something online by Christmas, but I won't say which year ;)
 
SimonSawSunlight said:
yes, thanks. but that would be the long road. I was hoping someone had a little experience as to what works better etc.

ps: I couldn't find any data about either of the developers in the tmax datasheet (or maybe I'm blind :D ).
Click to expand...

Well if you want to take a chance then HC110 is the Kodak equivalent of LC29. Or rather LC29 is the dilute version of Ilford Ilfotec HC which is the Ilford equivalent of Kodak HC110.

So Kodak say at 100 using HC110 dilution B time is 6 mins. Pushed to 400 time is 11.5 minutes.
If you apply the same doubling of time when using LC29 then you move from 7.5 mins when using LC29 at 1+19 to 14.5 mins using LC29 1+19 @ 20deg C.
But as I say, its a leap in the dark but very close to your guess of 15 mins and I think it won't be far out out. I would however be prepared for the negs to be contrasty so how useable they will be will be dependant on your subject contrast. if it was low you should be fine. If it was high contrast subjects you'll be in trouble and would be better using devlopment for 100 speed and accepting you'll lose some shadow detail.

If you are going to scan it you should be able to get it all from the negs even it is contrasty.
 
Sorry, I dont have hands on experience with pushing TMAX 100 to 400.

But, the only developer that caught my attention was Kodak D-76 Stock.

Massive Dev.
D-76 Stock
8:15 min. @ 68F/20C

Hope this helps.
 
Here is some only info. I found on TMAX 100 pushed to 400 with Rodinal.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/t-max/discuss/72157604525916348/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nassau/sets/72157604530096967/

From the above links:
by Matt Nassau on flickr.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/34951569@N00

I wanted to share my experience in pushing tmax 100 by two stops. Looking for suitable developing times/developer combos, I found nothing out there on the internet.

In the end, the results are as to be expected: more grain and higher contrast, BUT it is very possible to get useful, detailed images.

Here are the details:
Tmax 100, pushed to EI 400, developed in Rodinal 1+50, 20C, 40 minutes (yes 40 min! Remember that Tmax 100 is normally developed for 15 min at 1+50 in Rodinal).
Agitation: 60 sec for first minute, 5 sec for each minute thereafter.

-&-

Expermental:
I took out of date Kodak T-Max 100 (expiry Dec 2002, when exposed/developed on April 12 2008), pushed it to EI 400, then developed in Rodinal.

I use Rodinal all the time (many reasons), but couldn't find any push development times for T-Max. Indeed, many people seem to frown on pushing this film.

I had a go at development:
1+50 Rodinal, 20 C, 40 minutes,
Agitation: 60 sec for the first minute.
5 sec for each minute thereafter.
Click to expand...
 
Tmax can be shot at 200 without changing dev-times, so I suppose a push to 400 is basically a 1 stop push.

I would probably first shoot a test-roll @ 400, cut it in two and develop those at 50% and 75% added time from regular EI 100. I see on the massive dev chart that they have done this with Dilution B and HC-110.

You can half the dilution of B and get H and then double the original time (with gentle agitation, this may be better for pushing, because you avoid to much contrast and better shadow detail with the longer dev-time and gentle agitation sceme).
- I've pushed Acros 100 to 400 in dilution H with good results so far.

I find it a bit strange to push with Rodinal, as this developer usually isn't exactly speed-enhancing. :)
 
I'd be using Xtol personally ... it's the best developer I've used for pushing without losing to much in the way of shadow detail and blowing highlights.
 
as apparently LC29 1+19 is pretty much identical to HC110 B, I used the HC110 times which gave me acceptable results.
less grain than tri-x at 400 but in dark / low contrast situations you might want to give it a stop more.

IMG_0020vklein.jpg


IMG_0022vklein.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom