1st change to make with slighty thin negitives

DNG

DNG

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I just developed a roll of HP5 shoot at box speed, souped in Rodinal 1:50 per Massive Developer Chart iPad App.

They came out a little less than 1/2 the density I'd prefer for scanning.

I am inclined to shoot at ISO 320/250 and still soup at the ISO 400 Time/Temp. (11:00m at 20c) I "Rod" agitate 20s every 1:00m

Or, should I still shoot at 400, and soup in Rodinal 1:25 for 6:00m at 20c per MDC Time/Temp for HP5 shoot from ISO 200-3200 (Separate times are given for each are listed ISO in the App).
 
Remember the old adage "expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights." If there is enough shadow detail then you need to develop more, if there is not enough shadow detail, then you need to get more light onto the film by exposing at a lower EI.
 
Using Nikon's Center Weighted Meter on the FE can be challenging to shoot for the shadows. I Prefer to try to balance a highlight + shadow in the center area and meter for that as my average.

So you (KenR) prefer to change the ISO to expose more, my 1st option listed.
 
I too would try to put a bit more light on the film ... if stuff aren't there in the first place nothing one does later will make any difference.

However I have never actually used Rodinal myself
 
I always shoot HP5 at 320 ( same as I do for Tri-X ) and develop it pretty much the same as I would if it were shot at box speed. I usually do this for most developers I use, but I always do when using Rodinal, as all film loses speed in Rodinal.
 
Are you sure your processing is not causing this problem? While you may be bringing the developer to the right temperature is your tank at a different temperature, causing the developer temperature to change? You would get thinner negatives if the actual developer temperature is lower than it should be. I had problems with thin negatives when I first got back into developing and this was corrected when I tempered the tank; then I was able to shoot at box speed and process per the film and chemical manufacturer's data sheets. Otherwise, there is endless experimentation with film speed and deviations from processing recommendations.
 
Pull 1 stop, develop accordingly or near normal. Just push the film onto the shoulder and handle it after the fact.

Thank god for non-linear analog saturation.
 
Try using the same routine for making photos. Keep it consistent, otherwise things can get confusing.

Then I would try either D-76 or ID-11 as they are easy to use developers. Try to end developing at the same temp. you started with.

Break apart the process. Lots of variables. Only change one variable each time you make pics and develop the film.

I'm going to stab a guess and think it was the developer. That's where I would begin.

Tell us how you're doing.

We're here to help each other.
 
Finding a personal developer time for your camera/film/developer combination is what's really needed.
In the meantime try this:

Metering is key, try this little test. Meter for the emerging shadow detail and take a reading (where you just want texture above print black) then stop down two stops from the suggested shadow meter reading.
Next make an exposure then do one +1/2 stop another +1 stop develop the roll as normal see which one comes out best for your scan/print workflow.

Rodinal is a flexible developer, it doesn't 'loose speed' photographic speed is coupled to the tonal values in your print, if you only have three tones in your subject you can rate your film at a higher EI and make the slope of the curve steep like wise if you have many tones you can lower the EI and have a shallower curve.

n.b
No need to change film type, developer or camera all are capable of excellent results. People may feel Rodinal is at fault here-they are wrong and suffer from personal bias, everyone will recommend what works for them–you need to find how to use the tools you have.

Keep at it all will be OK.
 
Look very closely at the shadow areas (light parts) of your negatives, if you see shadow detail, you need to develop more. As the shadows go to development quickly, you can tell if there is some detail, and the need for more development. Ilford films are very consistent so if you are shooting at 320-250 and there is no shadow detail, I would check your camera and meter. But this is unlikely.

Important: only change one thing at a time.
 
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