kennylovrin
Well-known
Hey guys
So I've kind of decided that I want to play around with my grandfathers old MF Ikoflex. But, I want to develop and scan the film myself both because of the fun and because of the cost of having it done at a lab.
I did a bit of developing when I was in school a bit more than 10 years ago, so it is safe to say that I don't remember a single thing except what some of the equipment looks like.
I've been trying to figure out what I need to start, but it just seems like jungle of what chemistry to choose etc.
So I wanted to ask if someone kindly could help me out with what to buy. At this stage quality is of secondary importance, it is much more important that I can figure out what to buy and how to use it rather than getting amazing results at this stage.
I'll probably buy ISO 100 T-MAX or something which I think is readily available here for MF, but then after that I am pretty much in the dark.
I know I need that little box with the spindle to put the film in when pouring the developer etc and I kind of can figure out that I need a temperature meter and something to mix in and so on.
But, for the film mentioned, what kind of chemistry do I need? Developer? Fixer? Which one should I go for (something common is better as there is bigger chance of me managing to find it here).
Really, anything is helpful, I have no idea how I would chose developers between all different brands and variations etc..
Thanks guys!
So I've kind of decided that I want to play around with my grandfathers old MF Ikoflex. But, I want to develop and scan the film myself both because of the fun and because of the cost of having it done at a lab.
I did a bit of developing when I was in school a bit more than 10 years ago, so it is safe to say that I don't remember a single thing except what some of the equipment looks like.
I've been trying to figure out what I need to start, but it just seems like jungle of what chemistry to choose etc.
So I wanted to ask if someone kindly could help me out with what to buy. At this stage quality is of secondary importance, it is much more important that I can figure out what to buy and how to use it rather than getting amazing results at this stage.
I'll probably buy ISO 100 T-MAX or something which I think is readily available here for MF, but then after that I am pretty much in the dark.
I know I need that little box with the spindle to put the film in when pouring the developer etc and I kind of can figure out that I need a temperature meter and something to mix in and so on.
But, for the film mentioned, what kind of chemistry do I need? Developer? Fixer? Which one should I go for (something common is better as there is bigger chance of me managing to find it here).
Really, anything is helpful, I have no idea how I would chose developers between all different brands and variations etc..
Thanks guys!
Teuthida
Well-known
You need film developer, stop bath and fixer. You need a developing tank. You need a thermometer to measure liquid temps. You need cloths pins or something similar with which to hang your film to dry. Everything else is optional
Michel154
Established
i think Diafine would be a good choice for you since it is very simple to use and you do not need a darkroom or the need to monitor the temperature
negatives developed in Diafine scan really nicely specially MF
negatives developed in Diafine scan really nicely specially MF
Charlie Lemay
Well-known
You might want to have a look at the ZoneSimple section of my website. There are free downloads and detailed instructions on this simplified paproach to film exposure nd development that have the added benefit of making negatives that have more shadow and highlight information in the prinable range of the paper, which is the weakest link in the process.
it'sawhat?
Established
I'd go with diafine , it's as simple as it gets water for stop and fixer any major brand. If you can get a good price on foma 100 or fuji acros in Sweden both look very nice in diafine. I will suggest a changing bag unless you can get a room pitch dark for loading the reels for the tank.
yossarian123
Sam I Am
I'll only add that I would buy a couple of gallons of distilled water. I was never really happy with my B&W developing (too many scratches and watermarks) until I switched over to using distilled water for developing. You can rinse in good old tap to save money, but the developing and final soak (with photo-flo) should be used with distilled.
Teuthida
Well-known
Seconded.....
mbisc
Silver Halide User
Here is an old link from Kodak about B&W Film Developing:
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/edbwf/edbwf.pdf
BTW, my favorite for TMax 100 is Kodak's TMax RS developer:
Step 1: throw away the directions in the package
Step 2: pour the entire replenisher bottle into the developer (this will create a developer with very long shelf-life -- easily a year or two)
Step 3: test your film/camera/lens/water/agitation combination to determine the proper developing time.
As a starting point, you can use my current approach:
dilution: 1 parts developer & 9 parts water
time: 6.5 minutes
temperature: 24 degrees C / 75 degrees F
Enjoy!
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/edbwf/edbwf.pdf
BTW, my favorite for TMax 100 is Kodak's TMax RS developer:
Step 1: throw away the directions in the package
Step 2: pour the entire replenisher bottle into the developer (this will create a developer with very long shelf-life -- easily a year or two)
Step 3: test your film/camera/lens/water/agitation combination to determine the proper developing time.
As a starting point, you can use my current approach:
dilution: 1 parts developer & 9 parts water
time: 6.5 minutes
temperature: 24 degrees C / 75 degrees F
Enjoy!
Murchu
Well-known
Few things I learned the hard way;
- always ensure plastic reels are bone dry, even the smallest amount of moisture will ensure you have a nightmare loading them
- practice the loading process ad nauseum in daylight with a sacrificial unexposed roll of film, especially with 120 if you plan on developing it
- the paterson plastic reels with the small film guards are a nightmare to load. Instead buy plastic reels with large film guards, as they will save a lot of frustration, unless you are already versed in loading the less well-designed paterson ones
- use developing times/ temperatures that give you more than 5 minutes development time, and also give you an easier time with temperature control. Eg, with D-76 I use it 1+1, which gives me development times long enough to eliminate any real possibility of uneven development, as well as using water that is 20 degrees, a reasonable enough temperature to work with
- if it is proving a nightmare to load the film onto the roll, and your hands are in the changing bag so long as to start getting sweaty, just bundle the film into the tank, close the lid, open up the bag and give yourself a breather. Better to take a few minutes and relax, rather than getting frustrated.
- use distilled water for mixing with your photo-flo, this tends to give you a much easier time from hard water
- invert the tank gently, usually 2 or 3 gentle inversions per minute is more than enough
- always ensure plastic reels are bone dry, even the smallest amount of moisture will ensure you have a nightmare loading them
- practice the loading process ad nauseum in daylight with a sacrificial unexposed roll of film, especially with 120 if you plan on developing it
- the paterson plastic reels with the small film guards are a nightmare to load. Instead buy plastic reels with large film guards, as they will save a lot of frustration, unless you are already versed in loading the less well-designed paterson ones
- use developing times/ temperatures that give you more than 5 minutes development time, and also give you an easier time with temperature control. Eg, with D-76 I use it 1+1, which gives me development times long enough to eliminate any real possibility of uneven development, as well as using water that is 20 degrees, a reasonable enough temperature to work with
- if it is proving a nightmare to load the film onto the roll, and your hands are in the changing bag so long as to start getting sweaty, just bundle the film into the tank, close the lid, open up the bag and give yourself a breather. Better to take a few minutes and relax, rather than getting frustrated.
- use distilled water for mixing with your photo-flo, this tends to give you a much easier time from hard water
- invert the tank gently, usually 2 or 3 gentle inversions per minute is more than enough
Joakim Målare
Established
Is "here" Sweden? May I suggest www.photax.se? They have everything you need and are cheaper than most local shops unless you order from abroad. Also, they speak swedish and are very helpful and friendly to deal with.
Good luck!
mwooten
light user
If you have a walk-in closet in your home I would suggest using it when loading the reels.
Murchu
Well-known
Hey guys
So I've kind of decided that I want to play around with my grandfathers old MF Ikoflex. But, I want to develop and scan the film myself both because of the fun and because of the cost of having it done at a lab.
I did a bit of developing when I was in school a bit more than 10 years ago, so it is safe to say that I don't remember a single thing except what some of the equipment looks like.
I've been trying to figure out what I need to start, but it just seems like jungle of what chemistry to choose etc.
So I wanted to ask if someone kindly could help me out with what to buy. At this stage quality is of secondary importance, it is much more important that I can figure out what to buy and how to use it rather than getting amazing results at this stage.
I'll probably buy ISO 100 T-MAX or something which I think is readily available here for MF, but then after that I am pretty much in the dark.
I know I need that little box with the spindle to put the film in when pouring the developer etc and I kind of can figure out that I need a temperature meter and something to mix in and so on.
But, for the film mentioned, what kind of chemistry do I need? Developer? Fixer? Which one should I go for (something common is better as there is bigger chance of me managing to find it here).
Really, anything is helpful, I have no idea how I would chose developers between all different brands and variations etc..
Thanks guys!
Re: development kit, a changing bag, development tank, a bottle opener, a few measuring jugs, a thermometer, a timer, something to hang your drying film on, and some pegs to weight the ends with, and a spray bottle to spray your hanging negs with photoflo. Think thats most things.
Re: chemicals, perhaps get liquid developers and fixers to start with. Something like Ilford DDX is a very nice, modern developer that works very well with most emulsions, if not a little expensive. Xtol is Kodaks equivalent modern wonder developer, but it is a powder and you will have to mix it. No real need for stop bath to start with, if your developing times are 7/ 8 mins +. Fixer, I used Ilfords liquid rapid fixer, and find it very good.
Jockos
Well-known
I'm also in Sweden, and I suggest that you look at macodirect.de, that will save you loads on film and chems, ordering from Germany will take less than a week, and UPS delivers to your doorstep!
For developing tanks and spirals, you can often find used stuff for cheap on blocket and fotosidans marknad.
Don't be afraid to try out different films than kodak. Ilford makes superb film, and for ISO 100, Foma has a really nice offer.
A good developer to start out with is D76, since it's not all that sensitive. For stop you can use ordinairy ättika, and which fixer you use makes basically no difference. Maco has their own brand of 'ecological' chemicals, and a set of cheaper chemicals branded "rollei", with a fixer that works very well.
All chemicals should be turned in to your local återvinningsstation for destruction when you're done.
For developing tanks and spirals, you can often find used stuff for cheap on blocket and fotosidans marknad.
Don't be afraid to try out different films than kodak. Ilford makes superb film, and for ISO 100, Foma has a really nice offer.
A good developer to start out with is D76, since it's not all that sensitive. For stop you can use ordinairy ättika, and which fixer you use makes basically no difference. Maco has their own brand of 'ecological' chemicals, and a set of cheaper chemicals branded "rollei", with a fixer that works very well.
All chemicals should be turned in to your local återvinningsstation for destruction when you're done.
venchka
Veteran
Is there a camera store in Malmo that sells chemicals & film? Go there. Ask them what they will stock for the foreseeable future. My guess: Ilford. It's an EU thing afterall.
You will need 3 chemicals: Film developer, film fixer, Photo-Flo (equal) rinsing agent.
As previously mentioned: Distilled water for mixing chemicals & the final rinse with Photo-Flo.
If you do buy Kodak Photo-Flo for final rinsing: Use 1/2 of the amount that Kodak recommends. As I recall, the Kodak recipe is 1 part Photo-Flo to 200 parts distilled water. Double the amount of water. Mix it 1 part Photo-Flo to 400 parts water. If you will be developing several rolls over a day or two or three, you can reuse the Photo-Flo solution. After that, dump it.
For a first timer who may only develop occasionally, I would suggest Kodak HC-110 or Rodinal film developers. Both are diluted with water as needed and will keep on the shelf for a long time. No waste.
No matter how much the 3 chemicals cost, don't worry. They are the cheapest part of the total cost of shooting film.
Don't push the lifespan of your developer and fixer. When in doubt, dump the lot. Start fresh. Spent developer or fixer will ruin your priceless film. Chemistry is cheap.
I suggest proper film hanging clips. They have teeth to hold the film securely. I tried to cheap out on this only to find my film on the floor in the morning. The one on the bottom end should be weighted to help the film dry without curling.
Buy proper negative filing pages and keep them in a 3 ring binder. Cut your negative strips one frame shorter than the page allows. This avoids the negative on either end sliding out and getting ruined. Also learned the hard way. Murphy's Rule of Negative Sleeves: The best frames on the end of a strip.
Get a GOOD dial thermometer. Unless you buy Diafine film developer. Diafine doesn't care what the temperature or time is. And it shows in the negatives. OK, don't flame me. Personal opinion-I don't get along with Diafine.
Film: I love Ilford HP5+ in medium format. Others hate it. All of the Kodak medium format films are good. Foma film is good if you shoot at half of box speed.
Good luck.
Wayne
You will need 3 chemicals: Film developer, film fixer, Photo-Flo (equal) rinsing agent.
As previously mentioned: Distilled water for mixing chemicals & the final rinse with Photo-Flo.
If you do buy Kodak Photo-Flo for final rinsing: Use 1/2 of the amount that Kodak recommends. As I recall, the Kodak recipe is 1 part Photo-Flo to 200 parts distilled water. Double the amount of water. Mix it 1 part Photo-Flo to 400 parts water. If you will be developing several rolls over a day or two or three, you can reuse the Photo-Flo solution. After that, dump it.
For a first timer who may only develop occasionally, I would suggest Kodak HC-110 or Rodinal film developers. Both are diluted with water as needed and will keep on the shelf for a long time. No waste.
No matter how much the 3 chemicals cost, don't worry. They are the cheapest part of the total cost of shooting film.
Don't push the lifespan of your developer and fixer. When in doubt, dump the lot. Start fresh. Spent developer or fixer will ruin your priceless film. Chemistry is cheap.
I suggest proper film hanging clips. They have teeth to hold the film securely. I tried to cheap out on this only to find my film on the floor in the morning. The one on the bottom end should be weighted to help the film dry without curling.
Buy proper negative filing pages and keep them in a 3 ring binder. Cut your negative strips one frame shorter than the page allows. This avoids the negative on either end sliding out and getting ruined. Also learned the hard way. Murphy's Rule of Negative Sleeves: The best frames on the end of a strip.
Get a GOOD dial thermometer. Unless you buy Diafine film developer. Diafine doesn't care what the temperature or time is. And it shows in the negatives. OK, don't flame me. Personal opinion-I don't get along with Diafine.
Film: I love Ilford HP5+ in medium format. Others hate it. All of the Kodak medium format films are good. Foma film is good if you shoot at half of box speed.
Good luck.
Wayne
traveler_101
American abroad
Absolutely agree! Nice to be able to work in an open space. If not possible, buy a large size changing bag
Other suggestions:
Kodak's D-76 or Ilford's ID-11 or Fomadon P = essentially the same developer; inexpensive and standard for decades/ the advantage of the latter two is they come in one liter size which is more convenient; dilute 1:1
Films - vary greatly, see what kind of effects you want; personally I like Tri-X which is very nice with D-76; or try Ilford HP5
Paterson system 4 tank/reels is very good; easy to load plastic reels
If you use plastic reels, make sure they are bone dry
Good luck! It is really worth it--a lot of fun and satisfying activity.
Rogier
Rogier Willems
Patterson Multi Reel 3 Tank
Large Changing bag
T-Max Developer
Kodafix
Kodak Photo-Flo
50 ML Graduate
600 ML Graduate
1000 ML Graduate (for mixing water to the correct temp etc)
2 X 1 Gallon Storage tank (For pre mixed fixer and Flo)
Hypo Check
Thermometer
Funnel
Clips and small weights to hang your film to dry.
Stopwatch (iPhone / accurate kitchen timer)
Distilled water !!!
One small plastic box to store everything
Large Changing bag
T-Max Developer
Kodafix
Kodak Photo-Flo
50 ML Graduate
600 ML Graduate
1000 ML Graduate (for mixing water to the correct temp etc)
2 X 1 Gallon Storage tank (For pre mixed fixer and Flo)
Hypo Check
Thermometer
Funnel
Clips and small weights to hang your film to dry.
Stopwatch (iPhone / accurate kitchen timer)
Distilled water !!!
One small plastic box to store everything
PMCC
Late adopter.
Stainless steel tanks and reels!
mwoenv
Well-known
This has more narrative description than the good Kodak refernce provided previously. Obvioulsly, you don't need to use Kodak film and chemicals.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf
Also, for more detail check the public library for books on film developing, typically written in the late 1970s.
Stainless reels are a little more difficult to learn to use but well worth the effort.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/aj3/aj3.pdf
Also, for more detail check the public library for books on film developing, typically written in the late 1970s.
Stainless reels are a little more difficult to learn to use but well worth the effort.
Murchu
Well-known
A handy alternative I have found to film clips, can be pieces of stiff wire, bent in a v-shape, with each of the ends turned in a little to catch the sprocket holes of 35mm film. I have about a dozen or so little 'film clips' like that, and find it an inexpensive alternative to film clips you buy, especially if you are developing a decent number of rolls at a time.
For 120, I have found 3 wooden pegs clipped at the top of each, holds the film firmly to dry, with a further 2 wooden clips on the ends, to weight it down.
Murchu
Well-known
If disposal of chemicals is an issue, perhaps consider Diafine. There are some good threads here, with good advice and results from using it. Between that as a developer, plain water as a stop bath and regular fixer, which you can reuse for quite a long time, you should not have to worry about having to dispose of chemicals too regularly.