Blue Fire Police B&W ISO 80 Question

DNG

DNG

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Anyone know about this film...??

It is a B&W high Resolution film.
That's all I know....
 
This is my post from raytoei@gmail.com, but I will add you HAVE to use a special developer. Or at least a developer that you have read about that can be used: Rodinal would be my last choice. It is basically copy film that is very high contrast (like white and black only), but with these special developers you can extend the tonal range. I found the film flat when I used it in the early 70's, but now with curves and all digital stuff available I was able to get a little close to what I want. No not my post I couldn't copy it. But here are the newly processed photos from the 70's:

5255626139_f0a808a396.jpg


5256237868_96c452ec5b.jpg


5256237818_386aa97ff4.jpg


This film and their developer will give you a SMOOTH image, and not like a smooth image from a digital desaturated image. These are much more satisfying and unique.
 
John, those look beautiful. I did not realize this film has been made since the 1970s. I never heard of it until recently. It sounds a lot like Kodak's now-gone Technical Pan Film, another high contrast film needing special processing, but giving incredible resolution.
 
Chriscrawfordphoto said:
John, those look beautiful. I did not realize this film has been made since the 1970s. I never heard of it until recently. It sounds a lot like Kodak's now-gone Technical Pan Film, another high contrast film needing special processing, but giving incredible resolution.
Click to expand...

It may have been (Technical Pan Film, they were very secretive then, also there weren't many specialty film makers; also then) but the H&W developer (1970) made it long scale. And I have to say it is smooth and was smooth. It scans well, and does not look digital. In fact, I have explored looking at it again now that I can post process with digital. I'm sure that the above mentioned film (Bluefire or whatever) is similar and the developer is also similar. You can do some very nice images that are definitely not what you will see on gallery walls.

Good luck with it (Chris) if you try, but keep it touch as I may also send for some, we can compare notes. I will do the same. I'm a sucker for alternative processes. I'm always looking for that 'Beach Boys' perfect wave. And at my age I say (but friends say it more) why try all these different processes. But I just can't help it.

Thanks for the compliment, Chris.

By the way:

http://www.frugalphotographer.com/catBluefire.htm
 
It won't be Technical Pan (that is too long gone by now) - according to old threads on APUG it originally was a Tura variant of Copex Pan. Might still be, but nowadays it is more likely to be one of the Gevaert Copex family, given availability and prices.
 
I saw some on eBay,
After I reviewed the above links, I think I'll pass, not really into high contrast film.
Thanks for the replies..
 
actually, this film isn't too bad if you like fuji acros 100
with higher contrast but sharper image. i developed a
roll with a leaky tank (excuse the dust spots), here
are 3 images, first is grab shot from a car, 2nd is a
blow-up from the first image, with the wordss " "No Person
under the age of 18 is allowed to buy beer/liquor at
this premise" and the third is a indoor image.
All taken from the Olympus 35rd camera and developed
in the bluefire developer.

bluefire-a.jpg


bluefire-b.jpg


"No Person under the age of 18 is allowed to buy beer/liquor at this premise"



bluefire-c.jpg
 
Thanks for these.
I do like Acros 100, haven't used 100 film for a while. The Special Developer seems to have bring out a fairly full tonal range.
 
I like those but they look very different from what I took in the 70's. Maybe, I'll try a couple of rolls and their developer, and go from 80 to 50 and use the compensating development scheme. I want a softer look (but not flat) with that very smooth grain.
 
John,

i am undecided about this film, while I like the
smoothness of the film, as we;; as the developer
that makes the tonality and contrast control more
manageable, I find that the curl of the film and the
amount of dust it attracts quite off-putting. I am
of the opinion that washing needs to be more
thorough than the average film. Maybe the clear
polyester base is a dust magnet ?

here is a picture from the straight scan of the
epson 700, the dust and the water residue killed a good image.

phone.jpg
 
raytoei@gmail.com said:
John,

i am undecided about this film, while I like the
smoothness of the film, as we;; as the developer
that makes the tonality and contrast control more
manageable, I find that the curl of the film and the
amount of dust it attracts quite off-putting. I am
of the opinion that washing needs to be more
thorough than the average film. Maybe the clear
polyester base is a dust magnet ?

here is a picture from the straight scan of the
epson 700, the dust and the water residue killed a good image.

phone.jpg
Click to expand...

I had much dust when I used the H&W film and developer. It drove me crazy, as there was no 'healing tool' back then. When I rescanned the above images the dust was still there. I also feel like I should use a hardener in the fix as the emlusion seems fragile.

It almost feels like the dust is imbedded while drying and it will never come off.
 
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