KevinVH
Nikonian!
Hi guys.
I've been reading here the last few days, and I found so much useful info, although I seem to be confused about 1 thing. It seems that a lot of people here use long developing times? And only agitate every few minutes?
I have always developed my film in Ilfosol, or amaloco AM74. The developing times change between 3 minutes, and 10 for the higher speed films. I agitate the first minute, then agitate for 10 seconds every minute. I just read here that if you agitate to much, the film becomes contrasty and noisy? Is this just for rodinal, or for every developer?
Most of the film I've developed comes out fairly clean, but I'm just thinking it can be better.I've only developed about 10 rolls so far, so it's not like I'm experienced or anything.
I've been reading here the last few days, and I found so much useful info, although I seem to be confused about 1 thing. It seems that a lot of people here use long developing times? And only agitate every few minutes?
I have always developed my film in Ilfosol, or amaloco AM74. The developing times change between 3 minutes, and 10 for the higher speed films. I agitate the first minute, then agitate for 10 seconds every minute. I just read here that if you agitate to much, the film becomes contrasty and noisy? Is this just for rodinal, or for every developer?
Most of the film I've developed comes out fairly clean, but I'm just thinking it can be better.I've only developed about 10 rolls so far, so it's not like I'm experienced or anything.
KenR
Well-known
Three minutes is probably too short a period of time - you tend to get uneven development with times under 5 minutes. So, you're better off finding a different developer to use or dilute it more. With D-76 and HC110 there are standard times available for the more dilute combinations that can get you to over 5 minutes. Good luck.
presspass
filmshooter
The higher the developer dilution, the longer the development time. D-76 1:1 is about 10 minutes; 1:3 is about 20. Reduced agitation will improve sharpness, but it works best with more dilute developers. Ilford recommends 4 inversions to start and then 4 inversions every minute. I haven't tried this yet but will do so over the weekend.
bsdunek
Old Guy with a Corgi
Back about 1947, Dad tought me - gentle inversions for the first 30 seconds, then two inversions, taking about five seconds, every 30 seconds. Worked for him, still works for me. KenR, you're right. I like at least five minutes developing time, and more often use 10 minutes give or take, so the filling and emptying time have less effect.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Very short dev times run into 'chaos theory': big variations in results from small variations in agitation/timing.
Longer dev times are more stable: for a given contrast, more speed, less sharpness, but less dramatic variations than internet hysteria predicates.
Cheers,
R.
Longer dev times are more stable: for a given contrast, more speed, less sharpness, but less dramatic variations than internet hysteria predicates.
Cheers,
R.
mike rosenlof
Insufficient information
Just to throw another idea out there, continuous agitation is not that uncommon for sheet films, usually a sheet or sheets in some kind of cylindrical holders and are rotated continuously (not all that fast). It's common, but not exclusively used with fairly dilute developers.
Google "btzs tubes" for more details.
35mm and roll films can easily be agitated continuously in a capped steel tank by rolling it around in a sink or counter top.
Google "btzs tubes" for more details.
35mm and roll films can easily be agitated continuously in a capped steel tank by rolling it around in a sink or counter top.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
I use the massive dev chart, and dilute the ilfosol as said on the packaging, 1+7, so 1 part developer, 7 parts water. My paterson tank fits 8oz, which is super easy to measure! I'll try longer times tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes!
I shoot a lot of ilford film, so I like to use ilford chemicals. They'e the easiest to get here in Europe, pretty cheap. I only shoot 35mm btw
I shoot a lot of ilford film, so I like to use ilford chemicals. They'e the easiest to get here in Europe, pretty cheap. I only shoot 35mm btw
charjohncarter
Veteran
Longer development is for the purpose of compensating the tonal range not by dilution but giving time for less agitation to cause compensation. That means highlight will not be blown out and there will be separation. Less agitation allows highlight areas on the negative to exhaust the developers ability, which is as stated above causes the compensation.
An added attraction with high dilution and lowering agitation is a smoother grain and much less contrast. The question is do you want a compensated, long tonal range negative. That is your personal choice.
The old adage of expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights, should really be expose for the shadows, develop for the midtones, and agitate for the highlights.
An added attraction with high dilution and lowering agitation is a smoother grain and much less contrast. The question is do you want a compensated, long tonal range negative. That is your personal choice.
The old adage of expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights, should really be expose for the shadows, develop for the midtones, and agitate for the highlights.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
Thanks, I'm really learning a lot here. Time to put it into practice tomorrow.
Btw, Im moving to Ecuador soon, my story is on my site
www.facesofecuador.com
And I just made new video which I hope you guys wil like!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRbnEhfDi7E&feature=g-upl
Btw, Im moving to Ecuador soon, my story is on my site
www.facesofecuador.com
And I just made new video which I hope you guys wil like!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRbnEhfDi7E&feature=g-upl
charjohncarter
Veteran
Thanks, I'm really learning a lot here. Time to put it into practice tomorrow.
Btw, Im moving to Ecuador soon, my story is on my site
www.facesofecuador.com
And I just made new video which I hope you guys wil like!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRbnEhfDi7E&feature=g-upl
100 rolls ought to last a year.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
100 rolls ought to last a year.
I don't know about that. I'm planning to move there to become a full time photographer, and there's a lot to see there. Most of my jobs I'll do digital. The film photography will be for my personal projects and spare time. I plan on shooting with my Nikon F90x, Nikon F2 and Leica M6.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Only with VERY LONG stand agitation...100 rolls ought to last a year.
Cheers,
R.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
Only with VERY LONG stand agitation...
Cheers,
R.
haha funny. I'll become a more active user here now! This really is a great forum!
John Bragg
Well-known
One point of interest, should you be hooked on more dilute development is that Ilfosol is not renowned for its longevity. Using a more economical mix can cause the remainder to go bad by the time you use it. There are other Ilford developers with a better shelf life. Ilfotec HC for one. It is the ilford equivalent of Kodak HC-110. Also DDX, not as economical but beloved by those who use it as a full speed developer. Good luck with whatever you chose.
charjohncarter
Veteran
One point of interest, should you be hooked on more dilute development is that Ilfosol is not renowned for its longevity. Using a more economical mix can cause the remainder to go bad by the time you use it. There are other Ilford developers with a better shelf life. Ilfotec HC for one. It is the ilford equivalent of Kodak HC-110. Also DDX, not as economical but beloved by those who use it as a full speed developer. Good luck with whatever you chose.
This is a good point, I lived in Panama' for 3 years and D-76 didn't last long in the humidity and heat. One shot HC-110 or Rodinal might be a better choice. If you are living in Quito it may be cooler, Guayaquil is hot as I remember.
Maybe everything is air conditioned now though.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
This is a good point, I lived in Panama' for 3 years and D-76 didn't last long in the humidity and heat. One shot HC-110 or Rodinal might be a better choice. If you are living in Quito it may be cooler, Guayaquil is hot as I remember.
Maybe everything is air conditioned now though.
I'll be living in Cuenca, but I plan on buying a fridge for just my photography. I'm bringing 100 rolls, so I need some serious storage. Is it better to keep the chems in the fridge too?
Roger Hicks
Veteran
No. ESPECIALLY not after they are mixed.. . . Is it better to keep the chems in the fridge too?
Cheers,
R.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
No. ESPECIALLY not after they are mixed.
Cheers,
R.
Ok. Now I'm looking to make a DIY light table when I get there. Let's google this. I really can't wait.
Right now I'm living with my parents, and I hate telling them not to come in the bathroom when I'm winding the spools. Soon it'll be very different.
Bill Clark
Veteran
At my age, I can get agitated most every time I have to drive on the freeway in rush hour!
I follow Ilford's recommendation for agitation.
10 seconds at the beginning and 10 seconds each minute, four inversions each sequence.
I follow Ilford's recommendation for agitation.
10 seconds at the beginning and 10 seconds each minute, four inversions each sequence.
KevinVH
Nikonian!
At my age, I can get agitated most every time I have to drive on the freeway in rush hour!
I follow Ilford's recommendation for agitation.
10 seconds at the beginning and 10 seconds each minute, four inversions each sequence.
Yeah sorry, English isn't my native tongue, so I make these little mistakes.
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