Pushing Kentmere 400 to EI 1600

OurManInTangier said:
I know I'm using a different developer Lund, but are you able to give an idea of timings you used for this? I'm just wondering about Stand Dev or a more normal dev proceedure, my stand dev stuff has been underwhelming so far but this is probably just me.
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These negs where from a 15 min development with a gentle agitation once every minute. I rinse with water instead of a stop bath so the exact time is a little bit of guesswork.
 
Ljós said:
Wow, first time I see that effect. Very interesting. Tell us more if you can :)
Greetings, Ljós
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I'm usually drying film at the balcony and that night was really cold (-20C). I leave the film at the balcony for a night as usual and get this effect at the morning.
 
Unless you are looking for a grunge effect specifically, may I suggest Ilford's fastest recommendation of Microphen or DDX at ISO800, 10min in Microphen stock or 13min in DDX 1+4. The other Ilford ISO400 films all have Ilford advice for faster ratings than the one you have chosen, so that might be a hint about the relative pushability of the Kentmere. With Microphen the 'real' speed will be increased by half a stop anyway, and ISO800 will be fairly pictorial rather than contrasty. Do a clip test beforehand as suggested above especially if you want to try ISO1600 (+30%, or more, and gentle agitation). There is also the possibility of using HP5+, Delta400 or Pan400, for more recommended 'pushability', and if you are feeling rich try some Delta3200 (which looks gorgeous anyway).
 
I've been away for a week or two and have now finally had a chance to develop the roll of Kentmere 400 I shot at EI 1600. In the end I looked at the responses on this thread, did a quick but fairly fruitless Google search and plumped for using the Stand Dev method at 20c for 90 minutes with 10 inversions initially followed by three more at the 45 minute mark, in HC-110.

The grain did indeed increase, just as the shadow detail decreased , however, the effect wasn't horrendous (to my eyes) and I think I'd be happy to shoot Kentmere 400 at 1600 again using pretty much the same processing method.

There's so little info, comparatively, on this film that I thought I'd upload some of the shots so you can see what you think. I'd still love to see some more from anyone else using different developers, methods etc if you want to join in.

Marian-11_zps897da25e.jpg


Marians-guitar_zps54558e92.jpg
 
EI 1600 still only gave me between f1.4 at 1/30th and f2-f2.8 at 1/15th with my CV Nokton 35mm 1.4 so DOF is very narrow and some shots were missed in terms of blur and point of focus but without pushing I'd have stood no chance!

Marian-4_zps91aaf922.jpg
 
Thanks for uploading these photos. I've been curious about this film for a while.

The look of these images is what I've gone for with Tri-X in post-processing so I'd be very content with this film pushed to 1600.

Cheers
Philip
 
Kentmere 1600 w HC110

Kentmere 1600 w HC110

I used HC110 1:63/ 72 degrees F/ 26min 30 sec with I think pretty decent results. I like that it dries pretty flat.
 

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Gotta love K400. I use it @1600 HC-110 1:100 semi-stand for 1 hour. One inversion every 10 minutes.

A bit more grainier than Tri-x, but i must say i like it. Also scans great.
 
Lund,

i went back and experimented with XTOL and I found that

it produces better tones than HC110 for an ei of 1600.

Kentmere 400 @1600 + Xtol is my current favorite combo.

here are some recent images:

kentmerea1600-leicaflexsl2-50cron-013-Edit.jpg


kentmerea1600-leicaflexsl2-50cron-016-Edit.jpg


kentmerea1600-leicaflexsl2-50cron-044-Edit.jpg


km400a1600-m6ttl35lux-6-Edit.jpg
 
HC-110 is an upward sweeping developer. It's meant for convenience and speed of processing and not usually for quality of midtones or tonality. Seeing as pushing underexposed film typically results in higher contrast you want to stay away from a developer which will make it worse.
 
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129662

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129662

Thank you for giving details of your shoot.
Subject looks great! Film has it's own look.
Digital way easier.

Kentmere is practically off the map.
i found almost no data, even on Kentmere's site.
Your shot is way better in quality than i imagined.
i had horrendous grain due to warmer water temps..
i know bring all temps down to 68~72F 20~22C.
Less grain. The stand method worked for me as well.
 
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